Help Phil Try To Install This Crap Virtually Thread..

[TJ Willy]

Since I am sure I am going to have multiple questions as I progress through this stuff, I decided to start this thread.

I began stripping parts tonight and everything went well until I got to the clutch cable. No snap ring pliers and I did not have anything else I could use.

Question:

Switch Housing Assembly - Right Side

Book says: "Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing a 5/32 inch (4.0mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch"

Are they telling me to engage the front brake and stuff some cardboard in the crack between the lever and where the housing attaches? Sounds like that to me... but why so precise in the thickness??

I am so bad at cable stuff.

[8-Ball]

Since I am sure I am going to have multiple questions as I progress through this stuff, I decided to start this thread.

I began stripping parts tonight and everything went well until I got to the clutch cable. No snap ring pliers and I did not have anything else I could use.

Sears or Harbor Freight...

Question:

Switch Housing Assembly - Right Side

Book says: "Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing a 5/32 inch (4.0mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch"

Are they telling me to engage the front brake and stuff some cardboard in the crack between the lever and where the housing attaches? Sounds like that to me... but why so precise in the thickness??

I am so bad at cable stuff.

Yes...

I used some 1/8" drywall shim material... worked fine... You could take a piece of cardboard, like from a shirt box or a manilla folder and cut it into pieces that will fit in that gap... then stack them until you got close to the thickness called out and then finish it off to the exact dimension with masking tape. Do you have a caliper you could measure it with? It doesn't have to be to the thousands of an inch, just in the ball park...

Having said that, it IS important that you do it or you will hose your switch and I think it is like $80 or something.

[TJ Willy]

I am splicing in a flasher relay that will flash my auxiliary lamps in a hazardous situation like HEAVY rain or thick, thick fog. I have a flasher with three prongs. One for each lamp and one for power.

Question 2:

Basic wiring question could apply to anything with a relay but this is has to do with the auxiliary lamps.

So the lights are on a switch. The gray wire provides power to the lamp. If I were to splice into the gray wire with another wire to run to one of the lamp prongs on the flasher, then run power wire from the flasher to the trigger blade on the relay, will power still run to the lamp normally through the splice?

I attached a crude wiring diagram I put together. I am not sure if I have it right. Obviously, I don't know much about wiring stuff.

The "????" is a prong on the relay I think would normally go to the accessory, but I want the accessory behind a switch.

Does this mean that I can skip the relay all together??? Just go from splice to flasher to switch to power????

I am so a doof.

[TJ Willy]

I used some 1/8" drywall shim material... worked fine... You could take a piece of cardboard, like from a shirt box or a manilla folder and cut it into pieces that will fit in that gap... then stack them until you got close to the thickness called out and then finish it off to the exact dimension with masking tape. Do you have a caliper you could measure it with? It doesn't have to be to the thousands of an inch, just in the ball park...

Having said that, it IS important that you do it or you will hose your switch and I think it is like $80 or something.


Would it suffice to just engage the front brake really tight then cram cardboard bits in there? Basically you are just propping the brake lever back right?

Forgive the ignorance. First time I have really worked on this sort of thing.

[8-Ball]

Would it suffice to just engage the front brake really tight then cram cardboard bits in there? Basically you are just propping the brake lever back right?

Forgive the ignorance. First time I have really worked on this sort of thing.

You don't need to engage the brake tight... just open the gap and stick something about 1/8" thick in there... and release...

If you have a pad of post-its... pull off an 1/8" worth, cut so it will fit in the gap and stick it in there...

[TJ Willy]

You don't need to engage the brake tight... just open the gap and stick something about 1/8" thick in there... and release...

If you have a pad of post-its... pull off an 1/8" worth, cut so it will fit in the gap and stick it in there...

Cool. Got it.

[8-Ball]

not sure about the flasher circuit...

You might explain how exactly you want it to work from an operational standpoint... I don't understand the two switches...

Do you want function 1 to be standard auxillary lamps on (stock switch on and flasher switch off) and function 2 to be the zippy do dah flashy thing (stock switch on and flasher switch on)? With stock switch off, nothing works regardless of flasher switch position?

Your stock switch doesn't show power to it on your diagram... I don't think its right.

[TJ Willy]

not sure about the flasher circuit...

You might explain how exactly you want it to work from an operational standpoint... I don't understand the two switches...

Do you want function 1 to be standard flashers and function 2 to be the zippy do dah flashy thing?

Your stock switch doesn't show power to it on your diagram... I don't think its right.

By "flasher" I mean the stock Auxiliary Lamps would wig-wag back and forth like on po po bikes. (which I know is pretty much illegal) I won't be using them unless weather is reallly bad. Then I will take my chances and do everything I can to be seen. I did not mean for it sound as though I were wiring into the turn signal lights if that is what it sounded like.

The Stock switch is the switch already in place by HD that turns on/off the auxiliary lamps like on yours and my bikes.

What I am trying to do is keep the functionality of the stock wiring to turn on and off the aux lamps the way it was designed. I did not really show the stock functionality in my crude MS Paint diagram.

The rest of the diagram illustrates an attempt to wire in the flasher.

The flasher is an HD police unit Flasher "unit/relay" that HD gave me.

Behind that is the battery - from which I will get power to a relay. From the relay I put a switch in between power and the flasher giving me the ability to turn the flash functionality on and off.

The flasher relay has three prongs labeled L1, L2, and B. (lamp 1, lamp 2, and battery - I think) The battery prong I have wired to the power prong on the switch. The other two prongs on the switch go to ground and 12 V to power the indicator light on the switch.

I get power to the switch from the "power to accessory" prong on the relay. The other prongs on the relay are for Power, Ground, and ???. I think the "???" should go to some 12 V switched power - meaning when the ignition is on, power is sent to the relay. I just don't understand why that would be needed if I have steady power to the relay from the battery.

It could be all wrong........

I might not even need that relay. Just the Flasher then Toggle Switch with the Toggle wired to power (battery or other ignition "on" power) with an inline fuse. Then grounded.

Again, the goal is to retain the stock toggle switch to turn on and off the Aux lamps AND put in place another switch to toggle the flashing functionality when the lights are on.

[8-Ball]

Okay... this is more the direction that you will need to go if you want to maintain the functionality of the stock switch.

I don't think you will need an additional relay beyond the flasher, but I'm not sure about that.

If you use an SPDT as your flasher switch, you will be able to go back and forth between normal function and flasher function.

This diagram illustrates that part of it, I'm not sure about the flasher relay part, but its a start... Check it with someone who really knows this stuff.

The way you have it, the stock switch will always provide constant power to the lamps (i.e., no flash)...

My diagram will get a flashing (both on and both off, repeat... not a left/right alternating flash)...

[8-Ball]

This one should give you the PoPo by using a DPDT switch... and maintain the stock switch function.

I don't know about the flasher design, so you need to check with someone.

I also show a ground wire from the flasher back to the battery... sounds like that is unnecessary if you only have 3 prongs on the flasher.

I don't understand why you would need a relay, in fact, I don't see why you couldn't replace the stock switch with a DPDT switch that had a center OFF position (this would give you all three functions with just the one switch and switch location).

I'm also not sure about how the high beam/aux. lamp cut off works in the circuit.

Check with someone who actually knows shlt before you do this... I could be wrong.

http://www.doofclenas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10273&stc=1&d=1211537691

[TalonChief]

Would it suffice to just engage the front brake really tight then cram cardboard bits in there? Basically you are just propping the brake lever back right?

Forgive the ignorance. First time I have really worked on this sort of thing.

Pretty sure I just picked up a piece of crap off the garage floor and used that the last time I took off the brake perch.

[TJ Willy]

This one should give you the PoPo by using a DPDT switch... and maintain the stock switch function.

I don't know about the flasher design, so you need to check with someone.

I also show a ground wire from the flasher back to the battery... sounds like that is unnecessary if you only have 3 prongs on the flasher.

I don't understand why you would need a relay, in fact, I don't see why you couldn't replace the stock switch with a DPDT switch that had a center OFF position (this would give you all three functions with just the one switch and switch location).

I'm also not sure about how the high beam/aux. lamp cut off works in the circuit.

Check with someone who actually knows shlt before you do this... I could be wrong.

http://www.doofclenas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10273&stc=1&d=1211537691

Thanks... I will study over that.

[thrasher]

Pretty sure I just picked up a piece of crap off the garage floor and used that the last time I took off the brake perch.

Wouldn't that just squish and smell bad? :laugh:

[TJ Willy]

WooHoo!

Got it all apart. And guess what... I found a motorcycle under all that crap!!!

Pics to follow.

[thrasher]

WooHoo!

Got it all apart. And guess what... I found a motorcycle under all that crap!!!

Pics to follow.

Any extra tools I should bring on our camping trip??? :Poke:

[TJ Willy]

Any extra tools I should bring on our camping trip??? :Poke:


Shoehorn...

























to dislodge my foot from your ass.


:Poke: :roflback: :D :D

[TJ Willy]

Here are some pics. Took me about 3 hours total to strip the bike down to this level. That includes researching the manual for electrical wiring routes, labeling things, and taking pics.

I know... I am slow.

The last pic is the mule for the day. You should have seen the looks I got when I rolled into the HD shop with my inner fairing and fairing cap strapped on the back of the bike. :roflback:

I had stopped in to get some parts and drop the plastic off at the painter's shop.

Yuck:
http://www.doofclenas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10292&d=1211573360

Kinda looks like a motorcycle in the front now... ahhhh, kinda...
http://www.doofclenas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10293&d=1211573360

At least I can still jam...
http://www.doofclenas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10294&d=1211573360

Parts all laid out. Hardware labeled. Ignition is stuff is behind Brianne's Jeep. :D
http://www.doofclenas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10295&d=1211573360

Mule:
http://www.doofclenas.com/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=10296&d=1211573360

[8-Ball]

He's gonna need a new bike...

[BillyB]

You might want to clean that bike before you post pictures that you know Mike is going to be looking at :Poke: :roflback:

[8-Ball]

That CD player is a sin...

[BillyB]

Deep breaths....stay calm...in with the good, out with the bad :DD

[8-Ball]

Hey... check the torque on the handlebar clamps and anything else you can get to while you are in there... Triple trees, etc....
and grease up those neck bearings...

I know your type... only care about how it looks...

[TJ Willy]

He's gonna need a new bike...


:roflback: :roflback: :roflback: :roflback: :roflback: :roflback: :roflback: :roflback:

[TJ Willy]

You might want to clean that bike before you post pictures that you know Mike is going to be looking at :Poke: :roflback:


Been too busy riding the thing to warsh it. However, I will greese her up good before I head out! Probably get filthy on the way to ES...

[TJ Willy]

Hey... check the torque on the handlebar clamps and anything else you can get to while you are in there... Triple trees, etc....
and grease up those neck bearings...

I know your type... only care about how it looks...


Will do. My forks are still locked and I don't have a screw driver big enough to unlock them, but I will get at everything I can while it is apart.

I got some dielectric grease laying around I plan on distributing.

I believe my bulbs are too new to F with.

I should have all the parts in by Friday. Last ones being Grips and Speakers.

When we get back Sunday (heading to Louisiana to visit family and friends and eat some crawdads) I will be lifting the tank to install the cruise control line...

Mike... you know you are welcome to come help with all this. You are the big HD wrench now after all that fancy engine stuff you done did.

[TalonChief]

Wouldn't that just squish and smell bad? :laugh:

Only high fiber crap around the Burke ranch.

[route66paul]

By "flasher" I mean the stock Auxiliary Lamps would wig-wag back and forth like on po po bikes. (which I know is pretty much illegal) I won't be using them unless weather is reallly bad. Then I will take my chances and do everything I can to be seen. I did not mean for it sound as though I were wiring into the turn signal lights if that is what it sounded like.

The Stock switch is the switch already in place by HD that turns on/off the auxiliary lamps like on yours and my bikes.

What I am trying to do is keep the functionality of the stock wiring to turn on and off the aux lamps the way it was designed. I did not really show the stock functionality in my crude MS Paint diagram.

The rest of the diagram illustrates an attempt to wire in the flasher.

The flasher is an HD police unit Flasher "unit/relay" that HD gave me.

Behind that is the battery - from which I will get power to a relay. From the relay I put a switch in between power and the flasher giving me the ability to turn the flash functionality on and off.

The flasher relay has three prongs labeled L1, L2, and B. (lamp 1, lamp 2, and battery - I think) The battery prong I have wired to the power prong on the switch. The other two prongs on the switch go to ground and 12 V to power the indicator light on the switch.

I get power to the switch from the "power to accessory" prong on the relay. The other prongs on the relay are for Power, Ground, and ???. I think the "???" should go to some 12 V switched power - meaning when the ignition is on, power is sent to the relay. I just don't understand why that would be needed if I have steady power to the relay from the battery.

It could be all wrong........

I might not even need that relay. Just the Flasher then Toggle Switch with the Toggle wired to power (battery or other ignition "on" power) with an inline fuse. Then grounded.

Again, the goal is to retain the stock toggle switch to turn on and off the Aux lamps AND put in place another switch to toggle the flashing functionality when the lights are on.


I wouldn't do it. It is illegal and could be dangerous. Those lights flashing back and forth can hurt your night vison as well as someone coming at you. Why don't you just gat a legal intermittant light system that goes between the high and low of the same bulb? That is legal.

[Stone Cold]

Since I am sure I am going to have multiple questions as I progress through this stuff, I decided to start this thread.

I began stripping parts tonight and everything went well until I got to the clutch cable. No snap ring pliers and I did not have anything else I could use.

Question:

Switch Housing Assembly - Right Side

Book says: "Do not remove the switch housing assembly without first placing a 5/32 inch (4.0mm) cardboard insert between the brake lever and lever bracket. Removal without the insert may result in damage to the rubber boot and plunger of the front stoplight switch"

Are they telling me to engage the front brake and stuff some cardboard in the crack between the lever and where the housing attaches? Sounds like that to me... but why so precise in the thickness??

I am so bad at cable stuff.

The cardboard thing is VERY important. Not using it cost me parts and labor, but managed to get Du his Cat Herder rocker....