I'm having a problem when I apply the rear brake...

[8-Ball]

The whole bike shudders when I apply the rear brake more than just a soft pressure... front brakes no problem.

I've rebuilt the caliper, new lyndhall pads, new floating rotor, rebuilt the master cylinder. I'm getting an uneven rub when I rotate the wheel... its the pad contacting the rotor and then free-wheeling. Like they aren't lined up.

I wasn't noticing it when I ride solo, but the other day when Mary was riding with me, it required more force on the pedal and when I applied that greater pressure, the entire bike shudders... its a steady rhythm.

The bike stops, but after rolling down Palamar mountain, I was smelling heavy burnt brake and that rotor was blue hot.

This uneven friction pad/rotor was there right after I installed the new parts and the chatter was there even then... so while the rotor may have rewarped, I think it was due to something other than application of the brakes.

Gray was suggesting a vehicle alignment... I'm looking for second opinions.. mostly because that sounds like a major pain in the ass, the tool is like $300 and he is a doof afterall...

Any ideas... I'm bewildered.

It's an '05 RK Custom FLHRSI.

Thanks.

[FireDawgStew]

I'd check your rear wheel to make sure it is tracking properly. The rear on my 2001 Sporty was out of whack and it acted all kinds of strange - I just didn't know any better at the time :roflback:

[TalonChief]

8,

A pad hanging on the rotor, consistently, sounds like you might have some grit or a burr keeping the piston from retracting, or maybe the pad is hanging on one of the pins.

A warped rotor can be straightened out with a little patience and a modestly sized hammer.

My 06 FSM lists an A and B method for checking alignment. A requires the expensive tool, while B uses a ruler and time. I think you'd likely be getting handling issues if your alignment was significantly out.

If all was good before you went into the caliper, I would not go too far beyond that.

DISCLAIMER: I'm not a professional mechanic, so YMMV with my advice.

[GrayRider]

Gray was suggesting a vehicle alignment... I'm looking for second opinions.. mostly because that sounds like a major pain in the ass, the tool is like $300 and he is a doof afterall...



If memory serves me correctly, I made several suggestions...

[thrasher]

8-Ball, this is an easy check of the master cylinder return.

With the bike on the jiffy stand, take the cover off of the rear master cylinder. Now, push down on the rear brake pedal slowly but as much as you can with your hand. Now, get up close to the master cylinder so you can watch the fluid as you release the brake pedal. Upon release, you should see a flow of fluid coming back into the master cylinder. If you don't see any fluid flowing back, that means that your master cylinder return may be blocked, or the pistons may not be retracting.

[8-Ball]

Gray... I'm old... and I thought it would be a good "figure out what the hell is going on thread"... Did we talk about the marks on the axle in the wheel bearing area? I put my finger in the wheel bearings and turned them... they seemed find (no grinding... smooth).

TC... I don't think it is the calipers or the pins... new pins, new pads, rebuilt the caliper (was happening before and after)... the shuddering was why I started looking into the brakes.

I have the cam axle adjustment... I just don't think the axle is in the swingarm askew.

[8-Ball]

8-Ball, this is an easy check of the master cylinder return.

With the bike on the jiffy stand, take the cover off of the rear master cylinder. Now, push down on the rear brake pedal slowly but as much as you can with your hand. Now, get up close to the master cylinder so you can watch the fluid as you release the brake pedal. Upon release, you should see a flow of fluid coming back into the master cylinder. If you don't see any fluid flowing back, that means that your master cylinder return may be blocked, or the pistons may not be retracting.

I think that was happening before I replaced the piston and bore assembly. There were two return holes (one never drilled through) and the new one had three holes (all clear). I could see the fluid moving in and out with the new cartridge.

[Pete Logan]

Have you done a string alignment on the rear wheel ?

Pete

[8-Ball]

Pete...

No... didn't see anything about string in the manual.

Can you link me up to a procedure?

Thanks,
Mike

[GrayRider]

I have another suggestion,..try drinking 8 glasses of water a day, then call me.

[TalonChief]

Pete...

No... didn't see anything about string in the manual.

Can you link me up to a procedure?

Thanks,
Mike

8,

Basically, you set your front wheel straight and then run strings to the rear wheel to see if they're in line with each other.

I was thinking about this and don't see how the rear caliper could come out of alignment with the wheel, since it is on the same shaft (axle) as the wheel, unless something is physically bent.

[Dinero]

Two flourescent light bulbs make a great alignment checker.


By the way, y'all are beginning to give me serious doubts abut my bike. First thing in the morning, I'm going out to check and see if it is equipped with brakes.

The throttle is your friend.

[BigAlsRK]

I use my front brake...that way Lil Rascal slides forward in the seat and I feel her bubbies against my back....just saying.

[GrayRider]

There's a lot to be said about dragging your feet when you want to slow down or stop. Served Fred and Barney well.

[pairofnines]

I use my front brake...that way Lil Rascal slides forward in the seat and I feel her bubbies against my back....just saying.

And pull the rear plug wire so you can "spark the boys"

Shocking----just shocking I tell you.

[Highmiles]

Uh.........just don't use your rear brake?

Highmiles

[dynageno]

Q. What fluid are you using? Dot 4 or 5

Q. Is you rotor warped?

[FXDRYDR]

I'm also thinking alignment and you might try snapping a chalk line to check it.

Also, if I recall, you did a 10K a while back. I'm not familiar with your model bike, but is there a swingarm bushing that could be worn or that possibly was affected when you did your service? You might check all rear suspension-related fasteners.

[O'Rork]

Make sure you have actual slack in the pedal adjustment to the master plunger. There must be a little slack to allow the master cylinder plunger/piston and/or valve to relax and allow back flow.

Without pushing on the pedal.

Try to push the caliper piston back into the caliper with a pry bar/screwdriver between the metal backing of the brake pad and the rotor. It should move back easily. If the piston does not move back easily;

Crack the banjo/hose bolt, on the caliper, loose and try it again. If the pad/piston now moves easily, there is a problem between your toe and the end of the hose. IE: the lack of free play or the hose is restricted or the master cylinder is defective.

If the pad/piston did not move easily. Tighten the hose up. Now open the bleeder and pry it again. If it now moves easily, the hole tapped for the banjo bolt is restricted.

If the piston/pad still did not move easily, the piston is seizing in the caliper.

YRMV

[Pete Logan]

I'm getting an uneven rub when I rotate the wheel... its the pad contacting the rotor and then free-wheeling. Like they aren't lined up.
Trust me not to read properly :D

I'm sorry - I should have caught this the first time around.

You have to be right, Mike. Assuming you're putting the bike on a stand and rotating the rear wheel by hand, then if the pad is making uneven contact with the rotor, then the rotor is not running true to the caliper - the pads, by definition, don't move unless something moves them, so it has to be the rotor to caliper alignment.

I can think of three possibilities:-

1. The rotor is not straight. You said you have a new rotor, so this seems unlikely, but it has to be possible.

2. The whole wheel is wobbling. As the rotor is bolted direct to the wheel, this would cause the rotor to appear to be wobbling also. That might mean loose bearings. Not enough to cause a permanent wobble, but it might show up under braking. Seems unlikely on such a well-maintained machine.

3. The rotor is not mounted exactly straight to the wheel. God knows what would cause this, but maybe a piece of crap between the wheel and the rotor could put them out of alignment with each other :unsure:

Here's a link to string alignment. Harley preaches measuring back from the swing arm pivot, and that's normally good enough. String alignment is more accurate, by about 1/2 a millimetre :D

http://www.yamahafz1oa.com/sportryderswheelalignmentmethod.shtml

The main advantage I have found with string alignment is that simply doing it taught me a whole lot about bike geometry. But it's also true that the HD method relies on the frame being straight in the first place. String alignment works independently of the frame.

The only things I would add to the link explanation is that if you have the space, splaying the string out at the rear increases the accuracy of the measurements.

And that if your bike has an offset between the front and the rear wheels, which some HD models used to, then you need to compensate for that by offsetting the rear wheel measurements to match.

On the whole, the more I think about it, the less I believe it's an alignment problem at all. Not least because I once ran a bike on which the rear wheel leaned noticeably to the right, and never had a judder problem.

I think your rotor has to be running out of alignment with your caliper, though I'm buggered if I can think how that can happen :D

Best of luck, mate.

Pete

[route66paul]

Could this be a tracking problem? It sounds like something is loose, do you have any of the tracking problems that a ridestr8 or a true track is supposed to take care of?

[vafatboy]

Found this while searching around. Most the stuff found while searching resulted in front end stuff, but if you have a swing arm bushing problem, it appears that this could cause some shutter.

That's all there is to it. You're now a master of basic Vino service. If you detect any of that "joystick movement," the ability to move the handle hars in other directions like up and down, or side to side, or you notice that your bike shudders under braking, let the shop have a look at it, because it's a sign your steering column bearings are loose

[8-Ball]

Pete... thanks for that extensive reply... the hub was squeaky clean when I put that rotor on there. I just wonder if the wheel has gotten out of round... don't know how. The slide area on the swingarm where the caliper mounts is clean and smooth too.

vafatboy... Interesting... it doesn't say rear braking, but I assume that is what you mean. I was getting ready to check my fall away and replace the front springs to Progressive. Can't see how this shudder is from anything in the front though... I'm beginning to think rear wheel bearings and now the swing arm bushings. Its the same rear wheel and I haven't done anything that would have caused it to become out of round.

Paul... I'm not sure what those would be.

This gives me some good things to look at.

I layed it down one time at about 5 mph... would that have caused anything? The only damage was to the engine guard and it was minor. Could it have stressed the swingarm bushings or the wheel bearings?

[harleyjsb]

Did your trouble start right after you layed it down?????????

[JamieWG]

Wheel bearings could do it. How many miles are on the bike? Being that the caliper is mounted off the axle and so is the wheel, then one thing that would affect that plane is the bearings. It's an easy thing to check and that is where I would look first. If the swingarm was the prob, I think you'd notice it at other times besides just braking.

[8-Ball]

Harley... seems like it may have been around then, but I only notice it when Mary rides with me... so I can't be sure.

Jamie... good to see you around! I just replaced the rear tire and noticed some wear marks on the axle at the bearing locations... but the bearings turned smoothly on my finger... so I put it back together. I've got just about 25k on the bike and the problem started around 18-19k best I can recollect. Is there another way to check the bearings and should I replace the axle as well?

[harleyjsb]

Damn 8 I would like to help but I can't figger out what could be the problem..........

[harleyjsb]

And it's ok when you ride by yourself???????????

[JamieWG]

Harley... seems like it may have been around then, but I only notice it when Mary rides with me... so I can't be sure.

Jamie... good to see you around! I just replaced the rear tire and noticed some wear marks on the axle at the bearing locations... but the bearings turned smoothly on my finger... so I put it back together. I've got just about 25k on the bike and the problem started around 18-19k best I can recollect. Is there another way to check the bearings and should I replace the axle as well?

What kind of wear marks? Is it an actual groove or just discoloration? Sometimes the axle will be a different color where the bearings ride, but that doesn't automatically mean the axle is bad. If there is a groove, or scoring, then certainly replace it. If it is just discolored, then measure the runout before you throw money at it. The simplest, easiest (and least accurate) check is to lift the bike and just check for any roughness or grinding as the wheel is rotated. Push and pull the wheel from side to side to see if you can detect any lateral movement. Lots of times, it seems like HD ships the bikes with a dry axle (and very little lube on the bearings)... how many times have you seen a post about a stuck axle? A bunch. You can use a dial indicator to accurately measure runout.

[vafatboy]

Mike,

What I posted was about a shutter in the front, I was pointing out that it could be caused by the same type of thing at the rear, bearings, swingarm bushings etc. Anything that allows the play required to get the shutter when braking.

[dwarthog]

Mike, the only suggestion value I can add is to methodically go through the list of possible causes of what could cause the problem you are having and test each one until you find the reason for the rubbing.

Hard to imagine a floating rotor that is designed to flex as being warped, but I suppose anything is possible.

Given the level of detail you applied to putting that puppy back together the first time, I would lean toward something being out of alignment.

[8-Ball]

And it's ok when you ride by yourself???????????

It will do it while riding slow, but I have to brake harder to get it to do it. It is worse with additional weight on the bike.

What kind of wear marks? Is it an actual groove or just discoloration? Sometimes the axle will be a different color where the bearings ride, but that doesn't automatically mean the axle is bad. If there is a groove, or scoring, then certainly replace it. If it is just discolored, then measure the runout before you throw money at it. The simplest, easiest (and least accurate) check is to lift the bike and just check for any roughness or grinding as the wheel is rotated. Push and pull the wheel from side to side to see if you can detect any lateral movement. Lots of times, it seems like HD ships the bikes with a dry axle (and very little lube on the bearings)... how many times have you seen a post about a stuck axle? A bunch. You can use a dial indicator to accurately measure runout.

It was a different color, but I could also feel a very slight ridge on the axle. I checked the runout with a dial indicator on the rim out near the bead and while it wasn't perfect, it was within spec. I didn't checkt he runout on the rotor because it was my understanding that you can't get an accurate read on a floater... is that true? I'll get it back on the lift and see if I can detect any play, but I don't remember feeling any play and the bearings don't seem to grind. This problem occurs at any speed if that helps... even at 5 mph.

Mike, the only suggestion value I can add is to methodically go through the list of possible causes of what could cause the problem you are having and test each one until you find the reason for the rubbing.

Hard to imagine a floating rotor that is designed to flex as being warped, but I suppose anything is possible.

Given the level of detail you applied to putting that puppy back together the first time, I would lean toward something being out of alignment.

Okay, so I've got:

Alignment.
Wheel bearings.
Axle.
Swingarm bearings.
Swingarm bushings.
Rotor might be bad again due to heat.

Sounds like maybe a trip to the indy... if he has an alignment tool.

Thanks you guys...

[GrayRider]

Okay, so I've got:

Alignment.
Wheel bearings.
Axle.
Swingarm bearings.
Swingarm bushings.
Rotor might be bad again due to heat.

..

Don't forget the 8 glasses of water a day and dragging your feet.

[Highmiles]

It almost sounds like the compound in the brake pad is too soft. have you tried talking to Lyndall? They might have help for you.

Highmiles

[route66paul]

If you keep dragging your feet like that you will end up at Zinkie's

[Thorns]

8, look here...maybe the piston is hanging up.

http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/service_tech.htm

Thorns

[8-Ball]

highmiles, this was happening with the stock pads and continues to happen with the Lyndhalls... and they are the right ones.

Thorns, I don't think the caliper pistons are hanging. I rebuilt the caliper and the master cylinder and I really don't have any wear on the pads in 5k miles.

I took the bike to the indy this morning, and of course, riding solo nobody could get it to shudder, but the owner did say he felt like there was some forward swingarm movement when he applied the brakes hard... thought I felt that myself on the way down. It is terrible when riding 2-up and it happens every time I apply the rear brake. One of the owners is 310 pounds but he couldn't ride the bike because he is too damned tall.

They said that if the wheel bearing was heating up, it could be causing the rotor to overheat. Sounded like a stretch to me, but he was pretty emphatic about it.

This is how they are going to proceed:

They are going to replace the wheel bearings and check the axle first. Check the rotor. They feel that my brakes are operating okay (so my rebuilds were frikkin' right on). They are going to check the alignment, check for play in the swing arm, check the swingarm bearings and bushings, then button it up. I'll go pick it up and see if it is fixed with Mary on the back. If that doesn't do it, we replace the swingarm bearings and bushings (if that wasn't done already).

And so it goes.... won't know until Friday or Saturday...

[dwarthog]

Sounds like a very well thought out action plan to me.

[vafatboy]

Mike,

If you get a chance try calling Lyndall and talk to one of their tech folks. I did when I thought I had a brake related noise. They were very helpful. They may have some insight.

2131 So. Hathaway
Santa Ana, CA 92705
Phone: 800-400-9490
Business Line: 714-241-9991

I'm leaning towards it being something loose in the swing arm or something loose with the caliper mounting. Not sure how it mounts on the touring frame. But on the softail, the axle runs through the caliper arm and the caliper "rides" on a rubber grommet/wedge at the frame. If that grommet were torn or damaged it could allow for movement/oscillation when braking.

[Highmiles]

Sorry Mike, I missed the part about it happening with the stock pads.

Unbelievable how much grief you have gone through so far, to get to the bottom of this.

Highmiles

[pairofnines]

Sorry Mike, I missed the part about it happening with the stock pads.

Unbelievable how much grief you have gone through so far, to get to the bottom of this.

Highmiles

But it is well deserved grief seeing that he is a DOOF.:roflback:

Now: poor Mary does not deserve the blame 8-Ball seems to be directing toward her>:coffee:

[Pete Logan]

I took the bike to the indy this morning, and of course, riding solo nobody could get it to shudder
You could always volunteer to ride A L'Arriere (since I'm not allowed to say Bit^h). Not something I would ever do - Scares the sheit oughta me :roflback: I have no idea what kind of courage it takes to ride behind me.

If you put it on a lift and rotate the rear wheel by hand, and it goes 'scrape' - free - 'scrape' - free, then the rotor is not in alignment with the pads, ie the caliper.

Don't ask me how that could happen, but by Jingo, it's a fact and it will cause the brake to vibrate like hell.

Try it on your own, then ask your wife to help :roflback::roflback::roflback:

Any dealer, indy or not, who starts swapping parts without knowing what the problem is and being able to explain it to you and prove it, is just guessing.

Ask me how I know, $4,000 later :roflback::roflback::roflback:

Pete

[8-Ball]

You could always volunteer to ride A L'Arriere (since I'm not allowed to say Bit^h). Not something I would ever do - Scares the sheit oughta me :roflback: I have no idea what kind of courage it takes to ride behind me.

If you put it on a lift and rotate the rear wheel by hand, and it goes 'scrape' - free - 'scrape' - free, then the rotor is not in alignment with the pads, ie the caliper.

Don't ask me how that could happen, but by Jingo, it's a fact and it will cause the brake to vibrate like hell.

Try it on your own, then ask your wife to help :roflback::roflback::roflback:

Any dealer, indy or not, who starts swapping parts without knowing what the problem is and being able to explain it to you and prove it, is just guessing.

Ask me how I know, $4,000 later :roflback::roflback::roflback:

Pete

Well, I've got free scrape free scrape.... and I'm thinking like you are... got to be the hub/wheel or the the caliper... changing the rotor doesn't help.

So the question is, how does the caliper get out of line by itself when it is mounted to the same swing arm.... and I've got the little rubber thing intact and the caliper mounts to the axle and the slides on the swingarm. This baffles me unless somehow it got bent or the swingarm got bent.

I asked the tech about that and he said a small amount of scrape free is tolerable... and NORMAL... I disagree... it has to magnify under load and torque.

Wheel bearings are cheap and then there is the suspected swingarm slop... He tells me that replacing parts may be cheaper than diagnosing the problem... when a part fixes it, we'll know what it is... there is some sense to this as well... not much, but some.

I'll keep you posted.

[Highmiles]

Have you ever thought about having 96" and a six speed ?

just sayin'

Highmiles

[8-Ball]

Swing arm bushings are hosed... no grease in there at all and now the swingarm axle is frozen... they are trying to figure out how to get it out.... the impact hammer didn't do a thing.

... and so it goes...

[route66paul]

You might want to check your shocks. If the one of the shocks has a sticking point under weight, the weight of the 2 of you would be transfered to that side of the swingarm, which could throw it out of line. When only one is on the bike, the shocks don't compress that far. Now if I was to get on it, we wouldn't need a second person.

[TalonChief]

Swing arm bushings are hosed... no grease in there at all and now the swingarm axle is frozen... they are trying to figure out how to get it out.... the impact hammer didn't do a thing.

... and so it goes...

Is this a from-the-factory condition?

[Pete Logan]

Swing arm bushings are hosed... no grease in there at all and now the swingarm axle is frozen... they are trying to figure out how to get it out.... the impact hammer didn't do a thing.

... and so it goes...
That's beginning to make sense. If the swing arm is thrashing around ..................

Lemme guess - they finally get it out with a whole sheitload of heat. Oxy-Propane and a firkin great lever will shift it.

At least, it works on tractors :roflback::roflback::roflback:

[msocko3]

That's beginning to make sense. If the swing arm is thrashing around ..................

Lemme guess - they finally get it out with a whole sheitload of heat. Oxy-Propane and a firkin great lever will shift it.

At least, it works on tractors :roflback::roflback::roflback:

Heck yes, heat it up till it glows cherry red. Then take a 20 lb sledge and a large punch and beat the piss out of it until something good happens.:woohoo:

[8-Ball]

You guys are scarin' the piss out of me.

UPDATE:

I just spoke to the mechanic and he got the swingarm axle out... said it wasn't that bad, it just wasn't coming out when I had called.

He said, correct me if I'm wrong about terminology, there were a couple of heim joints (?) in there that were looser than hell. He said they are usually pretty tight. He's going to replace them and the bearings. He said that if there were a couple of thousands play there, it would translate to 1/4" out at the hub and could be causing the problem.... still just guessing though.

Have to wait until tomorrow when the HD dealer opens up so he can get the parts.

Talked to him about warranty, they are an authorized HD extended warranty shop... so they are going to look into that.

[DrHeathenScum]

wtf is it with dealers closed on Monday? SERVE ME, BITCHES!!




EDIT: ok, that's frickin' queer... b-i-t-c-h is censored? Is Martha Stewart running this place?

[8-Ball]

Wheel bearings replaced, Swing arm pin okay, rear rubber mounts okay, swingarm heim joints replaced and assembly greased, alignment complete (but was okay to start with). Rotor within spec.

The metal clanking sound is cured according to indy test drive (we suspected some forward play in the swing arm pivot).

I'll pick it up tomorrow and get Mary on the back to see if the shudder issue is cured.

or.... may just bring my SERT over there and have them give me a read and recommendation for a tweak if necessary... got a little jealous of Gordito's new numbers... just sayin'...

[Stone Cold]

Wheel bearings replaced, Swing arm pin okay, rear rubber mounts okay, swingarm heim joints replaced and assembly greased, alignment complete (but was okay to start with). Rotor within spec.

The metal clanking sound is cured according to indy test drive (we suspected some forward play in the swing arm pivot).

I'll pick it up tomorrow and get Mary on the back to see if the shudder issue is cured.

or.... may just bring my SERT over there and have them give me a read and recommendation for a tweak if necessary... got a little jealous of Gordito's new numbers... just sayin'...

Don't be jealous man, I'll ride slow so you can keep up. :Poke:

Remember, we ride Saturday....

Just sayin'...

[8-Ball]

Don't be jealous man, I'll ride slow so you can keep up. :Poke:

Remember, we ride Saturday....

Just sayin'...

of course, this would be an inaugural event... just sayin'...

Saturday.... I'm in...

[GrayRider]

I can see the ad when it's for sale:

2005 FLHRSI,..$58,000 invested,..will sacrifice...$33,000.

[LittleBear]

Might as well add those heim joints to the 20k service and replace them every 20k. Even with grease, I doubt the will hold up to the abuse you give them Mike.

[8-Ball]

I can see the ad when it's for sale:

2005 FLHRSI,..$58,000 invested,..will sacrifice...$33,000.

This would be funny if it weren't close to the truth...



LittleBear... what abuse?

[LittleBear]

This would be funny if it weren't close to the truth...



LittleBear... what abuse?

All that use of HP and TQ, the blipping of the throttle going up and down hills, the high speed cornering, and down hill racing on the mountains. (nothing like the smell of brakes in the afternoon) I have seen it all, do not deny it.

[8-Ball]

All that use of HP and TQ, the blipping of the throttle going up and down hills, the high speed cornering, and down hill racing on the mountains. (nothing like the smell of brakes in the afternoon) I have seen it all, do not deny it.

I consider all of this as normal use...

[DrHeathenScum]

I thought you were supposed to scrape going around corners... is that wrong?

:)

[8-Ball]

I thought you were supposed to scrape going around corners... is that wrong?

:)

Aren't floorboard simply early warning devices?

[Stone Cold]

Aren't floorboard simply early warning devices?

As long as you keep your feet up.

Just sayin'...

[8-Ball]

I thought I would report in and let you all know what has happened; both in the shop and once I got it back.

They replaced the rear wheel bearings and told me that they seemed good but might be just starting to go. I could feel the slightest grind in there while turning the replaced ones with my finger.

They also replaced the swingarm pivot bearings and realigned the bike. They told me the bike alignment was good going in, but the pivot bearings were dry and very sloppy. I checked out the old ones and I'd say there was an 1/8" front to back play and maybe a 1/16" side play in both of them... much worse than I thought when they described it to me over the phone. The indy mechanic felt this was our "smoking gun".

Nobody knew if this was the solution to the shudder problem, although the "clank" was gone under solo hard braking. The shudder only occurs when riding 2 up.

So Mary and I saddled up for a 200 mile trip this weekend.

The shudder is gone, the bike glides into the turns, I didn't get sex this weekend, and the braking is very smooth and postiive.

Remember this problem started out as, what can only be described as, a rear brake chatter. There was no shudder or vibration running through the frame. I started out replacing the brakes, rotor, master cylinder, rebuilding the rear caliper, etc. trying to chase it down and all the while it just kept getting worse.

So if you experience a chatter in your rear brake, especially 2 up, think about checking the swingarm pivot bearings.

[MegaGlide]

So if you experience a chatter in your rear brake, especially 2 up, think about checking the swingarm pivot bearings.

Then, after you think you've thought enough, go ahead and check 'em.

[vafatboy]

I thought I would report in and let you all know what has happened; both in the shop and once I got it back.

They replaced the rear wheel bearings and told me that they seemed good but might be just starting to go. I could feel the slightest grind in there while turning the replaced ones with my finger.

They also replaced the swingarm pivot bearings and realigned the bike. They told me the bike alignment was good going in, but the pivot bearings were dry and very sloppy. I checked out the old ones and I'd say there was an 1/8" front to back play and maybe a 1/16" side play in both of them... much worse than I thought when they described it to me over the phone. The indy mechanic felt this was our "smoking gun".

Nobody knew if this was the solution to the shudder problem, although the "clank" was gone under solo hard braking. The shudder only occurs when riding 2 up.

So Mary and I saddled up for a 200 mile trip this weekend.

The shudder is gone, the bike glides into the turns, I didn't get sex this weekend, and the braking is very smooth and postiive.

Remember this problem started out as, what can only be described as, a rear brake chatter. There was no shudder or vibration running through the frame. I started out replacing the brakes, rotor, master cylinder, rebuilding the rear caliper, etc. trying to chase it down and all the while it just kept getting worse.

So if you experience a chatter in your rear brake, especially 2 up, think about checking the swingarm pivot bearings.

I'm happy to see that at least one problem was worked out.......

[Pete Logan]

I didn't get sex this weekend
Don't be disgusting.

You're supposed to be happily married :roflback::roflback::roflback:

Pete

[Stone Cold]

I thought I would report in and let you all know what has happened; both in the shop and once I got it back.

They replaced the rear wheel bearings and told me that they seemed good but might be just starting to go. I could feel the slightest grind in there while turning the replaced ones with my finger.

They also replaced the swingarm pivot bearings and realigned the bike. They told me the bike alignment was good going in, but the pivot bearings were dry and very sloppy. I checked out the old ones and I'd say there was an 1/8" front to back play and maybe a 1/16" side play in both of them... much worse than I thought when they described it to me over the phone. The indy mechanic felt this was our "smoking gun".

Nobody knew if this was the solution to the shudder problem, although the "clank" was gone under solo hard braking. The shudder only occurs when riding 2 up.

So Mary and I saddled up for a 200 mile trip this weekend.

The shudder is gone, the bike glides into the turns, I didn't get sex this weekend, and the braking is very smooth and postiive.

Remember this problem started out as, what can only be described as, a rear brake chatter. There was no shudder or vibration running through the frame. I started out replacing the brakes, rotor, master cylinder, rebuilding the rear caliper, etc. trying to chase it down and all the while it just kept getting worse.

So if you experience a chatter in your rear brake, especially 2 up, think about checking the swingarm pivot bearings.


This certainly explains your edginess....:roflback: :roflback: