when replacing a primary chain, do the sprockets need to be replaced too?

[DrHeathenScum]

even if you snapped the chain being an idiot?

there's about 28,000 on the bike and I have a chain that is no longer a complete loop.

[Jams]

As a rule of thumb never put a new chain on old sprokets and never put new sprokets on an old chain.

[LittleBear]

My bet is no.
Compare the length of the old chain to the new one. If they are the same, or very close, no.
Compare the side sag of the old chain, if within spec, no.
Inspect the sprockets, is there any cupping on the teeth, rounded tops, or signs of wear other than on the face of the teeth. If no, then no.
Sprockets wear from, lack of lubrication and a worn chain. I know it was lubed, so about the worn chain. As a chain stretches, the distance between the links no longer match the distance between the teeth. This causes the chain to wear the front face of the tooth down to match the stretch of the chain since a longer link is being forced into a smaller opening and since there is never even wear, fewer teeth are actually in contact with the links of the chain under load causing even more wear.. This becomes an endless cycle and ends with the replacement of all sprockets and the chain.
Inside a primary, this good lube and heat dissipation, the wear is very small.

I would still say no.

How did you snap it? Inquiring minds what to know and learn from your mistake.

[dynageno]

What LittleBear said!

[DrHeathenScum]

Tightening the compensator nut to the new insane torque spec.

It was one of those fine moments where you're holding the bike with on hand, laying into the pipe with the other, and "SNAP"... then that sinking feeling, as you realize something just went really really wrong... you're afraid to look and see what just let go.

it was either the 3' pipe on the breaker bar or the incorrect "tool" for locking the chain I was using... though, probably a combination of both. I have a block of HDPE plastic I use for blocking the chain. Maybe I'll get the proper tool now. I believe the plastic block went crooked and made the chain twist.

Fortunately, I was able to vise-grip the chain to its self and get the compensator and clutch assembly back off before the red loctite took a good hold.

[duhast]

So that was you I heard cursing......

[LittleBear]

DrHeathenScum,
I read somewhere that with he new crank roller bearings, you are not suppose to use the block to stop the chain, but the bar that goes between the comp sprocket and the clutch sprocket. I know the service bulletin shows the nylon stop and I can not find the service bulletin referencing the bar, but I am sure that is the proper way to do it now. If I find the bulletin, I will post it.

[DrHeathenScum]

last I heard, the bar was only for the 06-up dyna. something about the inner primary not having locating dowls anymore and it could shift while torquing the comp nut using the block.

[LittleBear]

last I heard, the bar was only for the 06-up dyna. something about the inner primary not having locating dowls anymore and it could shift while torquing the comp nut using the block.

Yep, I believe you are correct, now that I thought about it.

[Berserker]

I used a cheater bar and shoved a piece of plastic in the chain. I would have thought the tensioner would failed first.

[DrHeathenScum]

the tensioner is a stout little forged bracket... gonna take a lot of whump to mess that thing up.

BTW, it's all back together now... I still never made the whole 45 degrees. I made it a bit over 40 and figured I would quit while I was ahead. Staked the nut in place with a 1/16" roll pin... it is done.

[Berserker]

I meant the tensior pad? whatever you call that nylon block.

[DrHeathenScum]

I meant the tensior pad? whatever you call that nylon block.

I actually think that is tougher than the forged arm it rides on! That is some serious tough plastic... I used what was left of my old one for my "new" chain locking tool.

[MegaGlide]

I think I remember reading somewhere that the stepped block that you use to lock the chain was always supposed to be positioned so that the chain didn't tighten against the adjuster shoe...

[DrHeathenScum]

I think I remember reading somewhere that the stepped block that you use to lock the chain was always supposed to be positioned so that the chain didn't tighten against the adjuster shoe...

always in the upper chain strand. ;)