Mistah, I GOTSTA Know...
 

Invoking Ernest Robinson here because I was just THAT damned curious.
On the outset of my Ingram ride I had to replace the Voltage Regulator and from talking with others it seemed the rotor was suspect and I should check it out. Well, who the heck wants to do that? So I put it off but it's been worrying me.
In the last couple of weeks I've been having some clutch slippage so into the primary I went. I also had found a deal on a Barnett VPC, so I figured it would be a good time.
It turns out that all the hard parts look exceptional and the rotor magnets are intact.
http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/image/155743369.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/image/155742653.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/image/155743104.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/image/155743111.jpg

The only oddity is the mess in the oil.

http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/image/155743106.jpg
Now, I got the bike used, so I can't be certain what has been in it.
I changed it to a different synthetic but can't "blame" it because of the unknown history.
The oil is burnt (smell and color) but the clutch plates look fine and are in spec.

The troubling bit is that there appears to be globs of immiscible ( and very slimy) stuff throughout the primary case.
It looks like maybe 2 or 3 ounces of gelatin of some kind and it is insoluble even in laquer thinner. Have any of you seen such a thing?
I don't know if it was from some error (brake fluid?!) or if maybe it separated out of another product. Maybe a compatibility issue.
There's a pic here of a tub of denatured alcohol with a bunch of the slimy stuff in there. Tried lacquer thinner, toluene, MEK, mineral spirits.
It won't break down at all.
Anyway, I've cleaned it thoroughly and I'm going back with Formula+.

Ideas, anyone?

I'd clean it out real good and go back with Formula+ (I know. You said that).

Then watch it closely. It could result from some "mistake" not fully cleaned up. Let us know about clutch performance after the fluid change. Hopefully it will clear up.

I wouldn't use formula+ in that bike. Full synthetic, syn3 or Castrol rs vtwin 4t 20w50.

Fyi, they come from the factory with syn3

By the way, how did the clutch plates look

I don't want to start an oil thread war but what's your issue with Formula+?

I know the bike had SYN3 originally and I changed it to Amsoil. Now, SUPPOSEDLY in the 3000 miles of its life before I got it, it should've had only SYN3 as it was serviced solely at the dealer, at 1K and 2500. I don't know the source of the muck, but it's probably something foreign to those products; I figure I'll just start anew with this.
Recently I have had several phone and email exchanges with some pretty well-respected builders about planning a future build. In the course of those visits I have been told by two 'smart guys' that Formula+ is the best thing going for the primary.
That's all I got.

I'll probably keep running Amsoil in the engine but currently SYN3 in the trans and F+ in the pri.

The clutch plates all look great despite the stanky fluid. They each mic'ed at 0.148~0.149.
The steels had only a hint of color.
The stator, rotor and comp looked just fine. I didn't realize until now that the 110 had a special comp design. Seems to work.

Clean it out really good.

Change fluid to F+ or Drag Specialties Primary Fluid.

Ride.

After a couple hundred miles, dump the fluid and see how it looks. Refill and ride on.





Did the magnet look ok?

The gelatinous stuff of which puzzles you may be, MAY be some silicone sealant from the inner primary bolts. If the original builder got a little exuberant with the stuff, it will break down over time and run around in your primary.

As for your primary lube, 20/50 Amsoil works just fine!

The compensator is the Screamin Eagle version, the red tinge on the center of the sprocket is the infamous "fretting" that folks refer to.

Formula plus is the way to go in the primary, it is designed to perform in the primary and transmission, helps with the fretting and works very well. While Syn 3, Amsoil, and other ATF style lubes work too, Formula + has many qualities that make it a better candidate (or so says my performance guru at Latus who did my builds and tuning).

As to the burned oil, one of the main purposes of the primary oil in addition to lubing the chain is to aid in keeping the charging system components cool (change the oil in the primary sometime immediately after a ride, the oil is surprisingly hot). I change the oil in the primary and transmission every time I change the engine oil. For the cost of two quarts of Formula + (approx $13) it doesn't break the bank.

If everything is clean, I would as Russ already said, put it together and ride it. The oil change after a few miles would simply flush any oddities out and give you an indication of how the parts are doing.

Caution Ricky:

Hearing all the scary stories with the newer compensator and formula + being the most recommended to make it work has kept me from putting ATF or a lighter weight motorcycle oil (one made for wet clutch use).

Wonder what the gummy slimy stuff is? Maybe someone put in some special snake oil additive?

Smart Dave recommends formula+. I'm going to throw this out there. Check the stator....the wire connections at the coils are covered with a sealant. Is that sealant in place?

The red staining in the bearing area of the comp sprocket is strange, indeed. I can't figure the source for it, but I used Nevr-Dull to polish it out as best I could.
http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/image/155749400.jpg
The stator's lacquered coating is perfect, the stator wire case plug is fine.

The clutch hat LOOKS like it'll hit the cover, but hasn't yet.
http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/image/155749336.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/image/155749335.jpg
http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/image/155749401.jpg
I'll ride it this afternoon and pull it again.
My (flat) 43 cover won't fit with out at least a 3/8 spacer.http://www.pbase.com/nufsed/image/155749331.jpg
Smart Dave was one of the smart folks who told me to use F+.

I'm not referring to the coating on the windings. I'm talking about the blob of sealant where the output wires connect. Much like this example. Attachment 60134

I can't really tell from the pic as I can't seem to zoom it.

The wiring on mine did not appear to have (or ever have had) sealant, but a molded-on rubber grommet that looked quite solidly mounted through the case.
No sign of leakage.
The stuff in the oil is really quite thin, not like old RTV. It seems about the consistency of maybe sunblock or skin lotion, but it just won't mix with any petroleum solvents. It's black in color and acts a bit like Never sieze.
I was using a paint brush to clean the parts and the stuff just freaking ruined the brush...the bristles are now just loaded with the stuff and it can't be rinsed clean.
Cleaning it off of parts means wiping it out with a rag and then tossing the rag in the trash. It's just...odd, that's all.
Lord knows it could not be good for the clutch!