Question for the Pro Contractors
 

I've discovered leaky-pipe sub-flooring damage. I will be doing all the repairs myself (of course). My dilemma is whether to wait, call the insurance company, get an adjuster, get a price estimate, yadayadayada.... OR, just assume there's not enough value involved to exceed my deductible.
Can anyone can guess what sort of price an insurance adjuster would likely allow.
After my 2000 dollar deductible there may not be enough here to make it worth filing and later premium hike.
Is this something that a pro would bid five grand on?
The subject is the small bathroom in this 65 year old house. Pier and beam, subfloor is plywood over ship lap on a bias with tar paper barrier. This is covered, of course with multiple layers of linoleum and the newest, vinyl, on top. The seepage soaked and warped the plywood slowly enough that nothing has penetrated the barrier or ship lap, (underside is dusty dry) but the plywood destruction goes completely across the room. The minimal fix will entail replacing all the plywood and flooring, of course. *While I'm in there, of course*, I'll likely redo the Sheetrock and paint, etc.
The bathroom has 9.5 x 5' of floor area.
The plywood is only in the bath and kitchen, everything else is white oak hardwood flooring.
So, should I call them and wait http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...c3f33779a6.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...0faa060a7b.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...b1bdae19a0.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...d6ce663900.jpg
http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/2016...dd3164184a.jpg
or just go ahead and rip it out ?


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I think your tools have a conspiracy going, to make you take them out and use them.

Trazzo flooring in bathroom with a floor drain..?

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Question for the Pro Contractors
 

Dupe. Please delete.

My gut says it's a 3000.00 dollar job for just the floor repairs if you solicited pricing from contractors.

Either way you end up on the Clue List and your home owner's insurance goes up.

If you eliminate that stand for the sink, you know I want it.

I wouldn't file a claim for that, unless you can't fix it without filing.

For 2K deductable, I'd suck it up and do it myself. 2-3K job retail less rock and paint. :coffee:






BOB

Yeah that's where I'm going with it. My only question was whether this was a significant enough project that it would be worth pursuing the insurance.
I never have, I've always just fixed it all.... But I've been told by others (natch) " you know your insurance would've paid out ten grand on that roof repair you ate"
Since I don't often use contractors, I have no reference for what this would go for.
Just trying to see if I'm 'leaving money on the table', by not checking on it.
But I likely won't bother.


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call and get some free estimates...

I doubt that your insurance will cover that. Most of the time, Homeowners Insurance will only cover water damage that is sudden and accidental. As in a pipe bursting. Not long time leaks from a bathroom sink. The tar paper barrier probably contributed to the damage to the plywood as it trapped the moisture between it and the vinyl flooring.

Most of the cost of a contractor would be the demolition and removal of the bad subfloor and floor coverings. If you want something done you cannot handle, I'd consider doing all the demo yourself and getting a contractor to come in after it's opened up. Many times a contractor will not give a bid or give a high bid because they cannot determine how far the damage goes until it's opened up. Sometimes what looks as simple subfloor damage may go into the structure or framing members, or it may extend into adjoining rooms when no damage is readily apparent.

Question for the Pro Contractors
 

Good point on the insurance and the leak vs sudden burst of a line. Already bailed on the idea anyway. I have been tearing out the floor and making extra effort to try to get ALL of the original ply out, including that which has an added closet now on top of it. And of course, I'm going to replace some drywall, as well.


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If you're doing the work yourself, and it's such a small area, you may want to consider putting down Durock/cement board and ceramic tile. Much more water resistant than LVT products over plywood. Proper termination of the bathroom floor should be to the center of the door so you cannot see the floor of the other room when the door is closed (see your first pic).

If he could find a large enough slab of marble...


We know he could trim it out and polish it...

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Going back with Hardibacker and porcelain tile. There had been a small transition strip to bridge the elevation change there that was created by the 'engineered' flooring added over the original hardwood. Going back with tile (not yet selected), I expect it to be close to flush, with a piece added to the hall side, or a thin transition.

Dammit, Tom...you just gave me another idea!