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  #1  
Old 02-25-2008, 01:44 PM
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SERT maps

I was trying figure out which canned Map to put on my bike before it goes in for tuning. But there maps that are close but not exact, so I'm trying to figure out which parameters I try match first.

Displacement
cam
injector
compression
heads
intake
exhaust

I can find a map thats close but the cam is wrong or should I take one where the compression is correct but the heads are wrong and the cam is wrong?

Any thoughts?

Scourge

06 RK Custom
95"
Forged SE pistons 9.5:1
.030 head gasket
Andrews 31G
Arlen Ness Big Sucker
Samson Rolled Thunder
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Old 02-26-2008, 09:04 AM
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I don't have the list with me.

All that and no headwork??
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:32 AM
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You aren't going to match the cams from the disk, since they aren't Harley.
Go with the right heads, comp and displacement, A/C is close to the SE, and nothing in the MoCo's arsenal is close to those Sampsons.

Edit:
Unless they've changed things, make sure you run the map a bit before you take it in to be tuned.
On the version I have, most of the Stage 2 ('05) maps retard the timing and shut the injectors OFF during decel down to approx 2k RPM, where they come back online with a jerk. The Stage 1 maps didn't exhibit this annoying behavior.
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  #4  
Old 02-26-2008, 07:52 PM
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Thanks for info.

No headwork at this time. The 06 heads breathe better than previous years, except for evo, so my guy and i decided to leave it for now, as I had minor budget contraints this year with doing the other stuff.

That can be a project for next winter.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:16 PM
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Your gonna waste labor and gaskets doing head work later. Will your cam choice work if you do the heads in the future? 06 may be better then before,but they are still stock EPA complaint heads. Stock HD.

I know what you mean by budget issues, but shame, you went that far and stopped before finishing. I am not familar with that cam, wonder how it will do.

If your paying someone for labor, your gonna get screwed. Having to pay to remove heads will a good chunk of what it would have cost you to do it now.

But its easy for me to spend your money.

Hope it works out for you.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:23 PM
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From Andrews site on 31G, notice 10.1 CR
Great cam for motors with 95+ inches and 10:1 CR. Lower TDC lift means easy installation. Similar to 37G but different timing. 2000-5800 RPM power range

37g, 9.5CR
Hot street cams for 88 or 95 inches. 80+ rear wheel HP possible with well-tuned 88 motor; more with 95. Smooth idle, broad torque (2200-5600 RPM). Stock to 9.5 CR.

I don't know enough about cams to say one way or the other. Same goes for alot mechanics.
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  #7  
Old 02-26-2008, 11:41 PM
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Dang, here we go again, I have to agree with Mega, well somewhat anyway. There is NO canned map that will work with that cam. Something for a 204 would have the right durations, but in the wrong places.

Even with out head work, you are in the groove. A little on the low side, but still in. BTW, the nice side of being on the low side is you should DEFINITELY be able to run regular!

Oh, the bad thing about it is you are wasting power that could be had with a little compression increase by milling the heads and increasing the compression ratio to where the cam wants it. Dang, now I am agreeing with that Berserker.
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Old 02-26-2008, 11:47 PM
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Ya my next build will probably be close to stock compression. Run anything. Not have to worry about premium. I am at 9.7, and pinged in the spring. Probably old premium. This spring will run 87, its cold out anyways.
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Old 02-27-2008, 12:08 AM
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STOCK!!! you don't need to go THAT low to run regular.

Stock EFI is around 166 psi @ sea level.
Just keep it under 180 psi and regular is fine in the summer.
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Old 02-27-2008, 05:38 PM
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Originally Posted by Berserker View Post
Ya my next build will probably be close to stock compression. Run anything. Not have to worry about premium. I am at 9.7, and pinged in the spring. Probably old premium. This spring will run 87, its cold out anyways.
I'm at 10:1 and don't ping 2 up and hot.
Sounds like a sh!t tune.
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Old 02-27-2008, 05:42 PM
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Ya needs to be tuned better. I have had it dynoes and AFR was ok. Guy said maybe shim it. Gonna try that. Since I have picked up my RPM hasn't pinged. I know you don't beleive in that either.

Also I think I would go back to stock ignition. Seems like the after markets are more fussy. I have played with settings a bit and don't feel that much differnce. Tried a few on the dyno too, didn't do much.
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Old 02-27-2008, 05:44 PM
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I was getting a little pinging around 85MPH when it was pushing 100, on the way to Sturgis when going up hill too. Not alot but a little. Probably try a bigger shim or differant needle.
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Old 02-27-2008, 05:49 PM
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Quote:
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I was getting a little pinging around 85MPH when it was pushing 100, on the way to Sturgis when going up hill too. Not alot but a little. Probably try a bigger shim or differant needle.
IIRC, on the SE ignitions for the carbed bikes, the performance one retarded the timing 5 degrees and the race one retarded it 10 degrees from stock.
If your AFR is good, that might be the way to go.
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Old 02-27-2008, 06:01 PM
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I have at DTT ignition set at 023. I should scan the AFR and post. Guy did mention if it was his bike he might richen a little, but not that big a deal. I was just so sick of screwing around by the time I got it built. Didn't want any more down time. Plus I hate getting the diagram in.
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Old 02-27-2008, 06:06 PM
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Not really much of an issue, though.
I see it's a Rev Perf 98", so you can just try something else when it lets go this spring.
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