adjusting for clutch engagement

[Infidel!]

I'm probably harder on a clutch than most, and the way you describe is exactly how I adjust mine. You get a decent sized friction zone and full engagement. If you want a larger friction zone, you can get a Muller Power Clutch. It looks just like the HD easy clutch you already have, except the balls are closer to the center. It makes a huge difference, especially if you have a SE clutch spring or similar.

[Bone Stockman]

I put in the S/E clutch when the compensator get replaced. I'm ecstatic with the pull, the engagement, and the friction zone. It just seemed too simple, so of course I worried that I was doing something wrong.

[Baggerdad]

You Doofs really do need it spelled out for you.... Here's some info I compiled for you guys, sorry it's not available in audio form for those that can't read - lol

Clutch Adjustment:

Tip: In checking my clutch adjustment, what I found helpful is to put the bike on a lift to do the clutch adjustment. With the bike off the ground, engine running, shift into 1st, pull the clutch lever in. If rear wheel rotates, press rear brake to stop wheel, if it continue to spin, there is too much drag on the clutch discs which can be adjusted by decreasing cable slack.

With the engine cold:

a. Slide rubber boot off cable adjuster. Holding cable adjuster with ½" wrench, loosen jam nut using a 9/16" wrench (nut size may vary depending on cable manufacturer) Turn jam nut to top of cable, which moves it away from cable adjuster. Back off cable adjuster with wrench toward jam nut, which creates free play at the hand lever. Nut size may vary depending on cable brand

b. Remove the five screws on the derby cover and remove derby cover.

c. Using an 11/16" off set wrench, loosen the clutch adjuster nut. May have to insert a 7/32" allen wrench in adjuster screw to keep clutch from turning while loosening clutch adjuster nut.

d. Using your fingers, turn the clutch adjuster in until it seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is lightly touching the release.

e. Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get all the play out.

f. Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning using the 7/32� allen wrench.

g. Squeeze clutch lever to maximum limit three times to set ball and ramp release mechanism.

h. Turn cable adjuster away from jam nut until slack is eliminated at hand lever. Pull clutch cable ferrule away from clutch lever bracket to check free play. Turn cable adjuster as necessary to obtain 1/16 “ - 1/8" free play between end of cable ferrule and clutch lever bracket.

i. Hold adjuster with ½" wrench. Using 9/16" wrench, tighten jam nut against cable adjuster. Cover cable adjuster mechanism with rubber boot.
Nut size may vary with brand of cable

j. Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.

Miscellaneous notes:

At the clutch pack: Adjusting the clutch adjuster screw adjusts the point at which the cable begins to pull the clutch out of engagement. If you turn the clutch adjuster screw clockwise, you adjust toward slippage, if you turn it counterclockwise, you increase the slack before disengagement (drag). If the adjustment screw is turned too far clockwise, the clutch will be disengaged or slip no matter what position the cable is in. If the adjustment screw is too far counterclockwise, the clutch will drag because you cannot, regardless of how much slack you remove at the lever, disengage it enough to remove the contact

1/8 to 1/4 turn of the adjusting screw reduces your friction zone, clutch lever almost all the way out from handgrip before clutch engages. 1/2 turn is the stock adjustment, which is just fine for most riders. Motor officer will have their clutch adjustment screw turned 3/4 to 1 full turn from being lightly seated to have their friction zone begin close to the handgrip during their rodeo exhibitions. Unless you're a trick rider doing lock-to-lock low speed turns etc, recommend adjusting no more than 3/4 turns.

If you want the clutch to release closer to the grip, turn adjuster counter clockwise 3/4 to 1 turn. If you want it to release farther from the grip, on turn adjuster counter clockwise 1/4 - 1/2 turn. Backing adjuster screw counter clockwise ½ turn off ensures clutch will disengage.

The adjustment of the nut in the clutch pack alters where the friction zone ends up on the lever on the bars. If you have the friction zone real close to the handgrip, it will not give you good separation of the discs and it will be hard/noisy shifting because of this and be harder finding neutral. Further away from the bars (with 1/2 turn out) will give you better separation, which will be easier shifting and finding neutral.

To take up all free play in push rods, turn screw inward (clockwise) until lightly seated. The service manual recommends ½ to 1 turn after turning the adjuster screw counter clock wise to lightly seat the screw.

If you follow the procedures in the service manual, with 1/2 turn counter clockwise the clutch will engage further from handgrip as you release the lever. If you adjust the screw 1 turn, the clutch will engage closer to the handgrip as you release the lever.

In effect when turning the clutch adjustment screw; you are adjusting the push tube and setting where the ball and ramps start to disengage the clutch. The release bearing is also known as the throw out bearing (on right side of bike). When you pull in your clutch lever you are compressing the clutch springs allowing the clutch plates to disengage. Imagine a rod (pushrod) pushing on something that is spinning - if there wasn't a bearing (throw out) the rod wouldn't last too long.

At the lever: Use the cable adjuster to increase / decrease slack at the hand lever to about 1/8". Too much slack and clutch may drag / too tight and clutch may slip. If lever play is more than 1/8" at the handlebar, clutch may not fully disengage.

Most Harley Davidson lever positions are set at about 1/8" of play. However, the best positioning of the lever is where it works best for you - as long as it still "works" or gives you the best control over the clutch's operation. There are boundaries you want to stay within. Do not adjust the lever too tight where it will slip, or too loose where it will not disengage all the way. Keep the lever clean and lubricated, including the lever pivot pin

#1 most common problem with finding neutral is associated with clutch drag. If the lever play is more than 1/8" at the handlebar you may not be fully disengaging.

The closer you feel the friction zone near the handgrip, the less separation you get in the clutch plates. You may then experience hard shifting, difficulty finding neutral and faster clutch plate wear.

As the clutch plates wear, the stack gets shorter and push rod endplay is reduced.

- Determine the O.A.T. (Overall Thickness). This is the combined thickness of all steels and frictions. Basically, this must not vary to any great extent from stock. You can use more or fewer components, but stack height must remain the same. Too thin a stack may result in slippage, while too thick a stack may cause drag.

- Stock clutch height 1998-2006 is 1.850"

Slippage:
1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
2. Insufficient clutch spring tension.
3. Worn friction plates.
4. Warped frictions or steels.
5. Improper cable adjustment.

Drags or Does Not Release:
1. Clutch controls improperly adjusted.
2. Clutch spring tension too tight, coil binds.
3. Friction plates gumming up.
4. Clutch shell keys or hub studs badly worn.
5. Clutch plates warped (metal or frictions).
6. Clutch cable collapsing, improperly adjusted.
7. Improper adjustment on primary chain/belt.
8. Too heavy an oil has been used in the clutch. A thick viscosity oil can cause the plates to stick, especially when cold. Use a light viscosity motorcycle specific oil (10W30 / 10W40), ATF F Dexron III.
9. Improper adjustment on primary drive chain/belt.

Chatters:
1. Clutch hub liner friction plate rivets loose or broken.
2. Clutch spring disc too flat (diaphragm).

Q: What is the purpose of the oil in a 'WET' clutch?
A: The primary purpose of the oil in a wet clutch is to act as a coolant. The oil in the primary chain case flows around the clutch plates and friction plates, cooling them. This results in smoother clutch action and prolongs clutch life.

Q: What about using Synthetic Oils in my clutch?
A: Synthetic oils, by their very nature of better heat resistance and improved lubricating properties, would seem to have an advantage. This is an advantage when it comes to lubricating an engine or transmission, but turns into a disadvantage when used in a clutch. This increase in lubricating properties (they are slippery) can cause an old, worn out clutch to fail. The purpose of the oil in a wet clutch is to cool, not to lubricate. The more 'slippery' an oil is, the more likely a clutch is to slip, resulting in increased heat and creating excessive wear. While most high performance clutches are designed to work with synthetic oils, it is not recommended that they be used by most clutch manufacturers.

Use a light viscosity motorcycle specific oil (conventional or synthetic) 10W30 / 10W40, or an automatic transmission fluid (conventional or synthetic) like ATF F, B&M Trickshift which is an ATF F or Dexron III, Amsoil Supershift ATF F, Redline MTL.

[BluesFan]

Thanks, I just figured out how to fix a tiny little issue I am maybe feeling.

Also, <rant> the clutch doesn't need lube, just cooling is a very right sounding theng. BUT. The compensator ramps need very tough lube. Ergo, gear lube /formula +.</rant>

I've seen some references where comp issue were lube driven

Unfortunately, w out good pics it is hard to tell. But anecdotally, atf was blamed, w no more issue after replacement and better lube
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