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  #31  
Old 07-27-2013, 08:59 PM
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The fastest way to a tune is hold a tp and run it to 5500 or so. You can smooth 5500-whatever your redline is. This approach will fill in your map quickly. I see you did a lot of WFO.
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Old 07-27-2013, 09:11 PM
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The muffler is due to change again next week.
bought another of the OEM 2 into 1 mufflers and some better hi-tech packing material. I'll redo it with the same baffle and the new packing. I should be able to leave the muffler alone for a while as long as the sound is decent in this version.
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Last edited by MrSurly; 07-27-2013 at 09:28 PM.
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  #33  
Old 07-27-2013, 09:32 PM
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Originally Posted by vafatboy View Post
The fastest way to a tune is hold a tp and run it to 5500 or so. You can smooth 5500-whatever your redline is. This approach will fill in your map quickly. I see you did a lot of WFO.
2010 bikes use MAP rather than TPS for the horizontal axis, which makes for easier tuning.

Ricky, you need to find a slight downhill grade and ride down it at 5000, 5500, and 6000 rpm. Then ride up it at those same speeds.
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  #34  
Old 07-27-2013, 11:25 PM
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Originally Posted by Bone Stockman View Post
2010 bikes use MAP rather than TPS for the horizontal axis, which makes for easier tuning.

Ricky, you need to find a slight downhill grade and ride down it at 5000, 5500, and 6000 rpm. Then ride up it at those same speeds.
I think Ricky has some hills in his neck of the woods. In my area, about 100 miles west of him, we have to drag brakes to fill the higher MAP cells. There are no hills. That's really tough at 90 mph in 5th gear. Heats 'em up quickly. We could wait for one of our really windy days . . . that'll get high MAP numbers.

NOW, if we were in Montana . . . .

For me, tuning at lower RPMs and lower MAPs made more sense. I rarely rev up to 5,000 rpm and hardly ever go full throttle. So I fine tune regimes of normal acceleration and also 50 through 80 mph cruising rpm and MAP.

Ken
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Old 07-27-2013, 11:43 PM
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I've done the first autotune ride; I tried to get all the cells filled. This is just a start.
Tomorrow I'll do some more riding and maybe even reading.
I was surprised to note that it did not give the 'over 125' error and ask to scale or cap. I am just running the basic AT, though.
I expect the Pro AT won't be long coming.
Here's what it looked like

I noticed a whole lot of the various error messages popping up during the run; NBR0,NBF+ and ET+ and others. They changed a lot and didn't linger. I don't know what frequency of error is "normal".
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  #36  
Old 07-28-2013, 12:31 AM
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I used the rebate to get my PV and my bike has never ran better.
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  #37  
Old 07-28-2013, 01:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSurly View Post
I've done the first autotune ride; I tried to get all the cells filled. This is just a start.
Tomorrow I'll do some more riding and maybe even reading.
I was surprised to note that it did not give the 'over 125' error and ask to scale or cap. I am just running the basic AT, though.
I expect the Pro AT won't be long coming.
Here's what it looked like

I noticed a whole lot of the various error messages popping up during the run; NBR0,NBF+ and ET+ and others. They changed a lot and didn't linger. I don't know what frequency of error is "normal".
Pretty normal to see quite a bit of those little messages. I'm impressed with your coverage! Nice!
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  #38  
Old 07-28-2013, 07:37 AM
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Excellent coverage Ricky, it shouldn't take but two or 3 runs like that to get 'er done. All that'll remain at that point is a little smoothing with the laptop and you'll be good to go.
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  #39  
Old 07-28-2013, 08:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bone Stockman View Post
2010 bikes use MAP rather than TPS for the horizontal axis, which makes for easier tuning.

Ricky, you need to find a slight downhill grade and ride down it at 5000, 5500, and 6000 rpm. Then ride up it at those same speeds.

Wouldn't the approach I suggested still produce more hits for both axises in a shorter time?
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  #40  
Old 07-28-2013, 08:55 AM
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I used warrens method for a few of my runs, I hit the parkway early in the am when it was empty and ran a few different throttle positions, I was able to fill the grid pretty quickly
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  #41  
Old 07-28-2013, 09:34 AM
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I've done the first autotune ride; I tried to get all the cells filled. This is just a start.

I noticed a whole lot of the various error messages popping up during the run; NBR0,NBF+ and ET+ and others. They changed a lot and didn't linger. I don't know what frequency of error is "normal".
The error messages are telling you that the parameters are not stable enough to record a "hit". In other words, RPM are increasing or decreasing, throttle not steady enough, or engine temp too low.

It only takes a short time to record "hits", but if the engine rpm is rising or falling, there's not enough time in any one cell to record.

What will be interesting will be to do an A:B comparison between your new PV tune and what you've been running prior to PV. Maybe you'll be able to see why your gas mileage was so dismal.

The PV has a really good A:B comparison function for viewing on the computer. Load the current and then load the compare file and compare.

Ken
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  #42  
Old 07-28-2013, 10:21 AM
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Does anybody know if the PV filters unstable data? I can see every shift point and engine breaking event because the afr will spike. Have seen it as high as 20:1 when engine breaking, but the twin scan and my tune software will filter "unstable" data.


That said while tuning I try to limit any riding style that produces reversion.
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  #43  
Old 07-28-2013, 10:25 AM
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Thanks for the encouragement, fellas.
a couple of things I'm wondering about:
I guess it's pretty easy to do a quick seat of the pants comparison by loading the original tune and then loading the latest, right?

I like to know if the software has the function built in to evaluate performance. it already logs all the needed info; TPS, Speed,time, gear selection. Is there a way to determine the time elapsed on a run, say from the moment that 30mph was seen under a given condition set (5th gear/TPS100/SS30.00-check clock; then if Gear and TPS are constant, when SS=70.00,check clock ) and compare to run A vs run B?
No drag strip starts or gear shifts, and you could start the run at any speed, say roll on at 20mph, let off at 75. Let the computer just select the data set that matches our selection.
In other words, the device already logs all the necessary data to be a 'road dyno'. We could swap parts, compare.
Lots of possibillities.
Does it already do this?
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  #44  
Old 07-28-2013, 11:11 AM
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Good on ya Ricky!!! Makes me realize that I have to delve deeper into the finer points of my TTS, even if I have to drag the laptop before I rush for a PV...
Looking forward to the final results and review!

Dirk
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Old 07-28-2013, 11:21 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSurly View Post
Thanks for the encouragement, fellas.
a couple of things I'm wondering about:
I guess it's pretty easy to do a quick seat of the pants comparison by loading the original tune and then loading the latest, right?

I like to know if the software has the function built in to evaluate performance. it already logs all the needed info; TPS, Speed,time, gear selection. Is there a way to determine the time elapsed on a run, say from the moment that 30mph was seen under a given condition set (5th gear/TPS100/SS30.00-check clock; then if Gear and TPS are constant, when SS=70.00,check clock ) and compare to run A vs run B?
No drag strip starts or gear shifts, and you could start the run at any speed, say roll on at 20mph, let off at 75. Let the computer just select the data set that matches our selection.
In other words, the device already logs all the necessary data to be a 'road dyno'. We could swap parts, compare.
Lots of possibillities.
Does it already do this?
I don't think it has that capability, Ricky. It logs data, but the one drawback I've experience with PV is that it doesn't even have a good viewing program. I've tried other viewing programs without luck. Best I've done was to use Microsoft Excel to look at recorded data over time.

As for comparing performance, I'm not sure that accomplishes anything I need. I'm tuning for best steady-state cruise tuning and don't care all that much about acceleration rates at WOT. (maybe that's why my motorcycle consistently got best gas mileage of the groups on the way up and back except when riding in second pair). I've worked hard to adjust mixture and timing, and then check for pinging and elevated ET in subsequent runs.

Once the VE's are derived and set, the only things you can really alter to affect performance are mixture and timing.

I'm taking my motor to Ed's dyno this week for a check-up. We're going to see how my tune performs, what changes his work tells me to try, and look at instantaneous mileage at steady-state cruising simulation to see what differences might exist.

Ken
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