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  #16  
Old 03-01-2011, 07:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Thorns View Post
Russ, just slam it against a 2x6 on the floor, it will move...
And that won't bend the tip?
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  #17  
Old 03-01-2011, 08:04 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '05Train View Post
And that won't bend the tip?
Aim is everything. Go for a straight down slam with a bit of a slight bend out motion.
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  #18  
Old 03-01-2011, 08:04 PM
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I have a slide hammer with a hook on the end mthat will do it.
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  #19  
Old 03-01-2011, 08:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '05Train View Post
And that won't bend the tip?
I didn't bend mine and I slammed it at least 200 times.

Quote:
Originally Posted by SLOWHOUND View Post
I have a slide hammer with a hook on the end mthat will do it.
The way the baffle is slipped into a collar is why it's tough to get out. There isn't anything to hook on to.

I'm thinking that I could make a slide hammer with a wedge or cone shaped center drilled piece of hardwood................

Russ, If I get time tomorrow I'll make a puller or slide hammer.

What is the ID of the muffler at the header side?
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  #20  
Old 03-01-2011, 08:19 PM
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My vote is to burn the shed

Put the pipe in the oven and warm it up, and maybe that will expand it

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  #21  
Old 03-01-2011, 08:38 PM
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Warren, the ID is 2-7/16".

I just whacked the thing into a 2x4 about 80 times and got it to move about 1-1/2". I loaded it up with more WD-40 and I'll give it a go with Tim's wood wedge tomorrow.
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  #22  
Old 03-01-2011, 08:53 PM
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I've been wondering what my bike would sound like without the baffle. I'll pass, too much hassle.
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  #23  
Old 03-01-2011, 08:56 PM
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I dunno man, you don't get road salt down there. Your baffle will prolly come out real easy.
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  #24  
Old 03-01-2011, 09:06 PM
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Russ this Is going to sound crazy but can you cut a slice on the bottom and get it welded? As long as your getting it coated anyway?.... just a thought....

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  #25  
Old 03-01-2011, 09:20 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y2kflhr View Post
Russ this Is going to sound crazy but can you cut a slice on the bottom and get it welded? As long as your getting it coated anyway?.... just a thought....
More work than I want to do. I think I can get the thing out tomorrow after it's had 24 hours to soak up the WD. My concern is getting the damn thing back in and lining the screw hole up.
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  #26  
Old 03-01-2011, 09:23 PM
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A quicker and neater version of the old school tin snips..... That baffle wouldn't be stubborn for long!
All kidding aside I had a f*ck of a time getting my Bub baffles out, soak, soak some more and a little heat gun action...

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  #27  
Old 03-01-2011, 09:24 PM
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I hear you, the screen hole should be arbitrary from what I've seen the baffle looks, like you just have to catch the end with a screw

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  #28  
Old 03-01-2011, 09:24 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '05Train View Post
More work than I want to do. I think I can get the thing out tomorrow after it's had 24 hours to soak up the WD. My concern is getting the damn thing back in and lining the screw hole up.

It goes back in wayyyy easier.
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  #29  
Old 03-01-2011, 09:26 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DAK47 View Post
A quicker and neater version of the old school tin snips..... That baffle wouldn't be stubborn for long!
All kidding aside I had a f*ck of a time getting my Bub baffles out, soak, soak some more and a little heat gun action...

Dirk
Russ is dangerous enough with tin snips, you really want him to operate a tool like that?
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  #30  
Old 03-01-2011, 09:32 PM
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Watching this with interest. I'm trying to come up with a similar fix to tone down the Hookers. Seriously. They did market a "quiet Baffle" but I cant' find 'em. Wrapping them is very much along the thought I'm working on.
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