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  #16  
Old 10-18-2016, 08:44 PM
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  #17  
Old 10-21-2016, 06:40 PM
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Sorry I'm late Ricky.

I had the exact same in a smaller bathroom and was able to re-do the plywood and install new porcelain for around $700.
While I was in there I opened up around the closet flange and replaced / reinforced for the heck of it.
Pain in the arse but not a difficult project.
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  #18  
Old 10-21-2016, 08:37 PM
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Yeah, well on the way in that direction.
Some of the drywall already had cracks from previous house leveling/ movement.
Redoing closet flange; repairing sketchy ship lap decking, new ply subfloor and I'm going to NOT place a vapor barrier under the plywood, instead I'm going with Ditra decoupling sheet on the top of the ply, under the porcelain tile.
This should provide some shift protection with the added plus of making the floor waterproof, at least against minor stuff.
( if water was enough to flood the floor, it would meet lumber and hardwood, no plywood would get ruined)
Y'all tell me what you think of the Ditra?
Side note: I used Schluter Kerdi membrane to waterproof the custom shower project.
In hindsight I've wished I would've done that entire bathroom in Kerdi with a curb less shower... but that's hind sight.






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  #19  
Old 10-22-2016, 07:03 AM
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Why no vapor barrier under the ply?
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Old 10-22-2016, 10:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vafatboy View Post
Why no vapor barrier under the ply?


Because the Ditra membrane on top of the ply is an actual waterproof barrier, itself.

I don't know the "official" stance on this but I'm *assuming* that we don't want to create a moisture trap by having barriers on bother sides.
I'm still googling for the proper method.
The Ditra lit has this, which seems to back up the single barrier plan.



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  #21  
Old 10-22-2016, 10:27 AM
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I can't wait to see how the chain drive shower turns out...
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  #22  
Old 10-22-2016, 12:38 PM
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I think what's in play here is the crawl space and a moisture barrier for infiltration from the bottom, not the top.
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Old 10-22-2016, 01:20 PM
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Question for the Pro Contractors

I agree that's the typical approach , and the way these old houses are done. Decked with shiplap on the bias, tar paper, then either hardwood or plywood for linoleum. Of course, they installed that with mastic, so the ply was essentially sealed top and bottom.
I'm still looking for input and proper info. Of course, just as every other project, this one continues to 'snowball'.
Discovered another leveling issue and that effort has found a twisting, cracked support beam. More to do under there.
There's also a nagging need for an upgrade on a plumbing segment.... but that's on hold for now.


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  #24  
Old 10-22-2016, 03:27 PM
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Question for the Pro Contractors

I know if you were putting hardwood down you would need a vapor barrier under it. It also acts as a slip sheet to keep squeaks at bay.
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Old 10-22-2016, 04:53 PM
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It will have a vapor barrier, the Ditra decoupling membrane is s vapor barrier itself. The Ditra also takes the place of the usual Hardibacker or DuRock. The question becomes, if the Ditra provides a vapor barrier (it does) then is the traditional vapor barrier *under* the ply, still used?
Apparently , the makers of the Ditra say 'no'.


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  #26  
Old 10-22-2016, 04:57 PM
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Question for the Pro Contractors

Trying to get it level again before installing drywall and tile.








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  #27  
Old 10-22-2016, 05:10 PM
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Sometimes you can find those antique screw jacks at yard sales.
Awesome mechanical tools!

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  #28  
Old 10-23-2016, 08:46 AM
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The Ditra lit dodges on the subject with "vapor barrier on crawl space areas according to regional codes "
So, based on local practice, and since it's not recommended *against* I'm going to go ahead and install a poly barrier under the ply. That should have it covered either way.


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  #29  
Old 10-23-2016, 08:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSurly View Post
It will have a vapor barrier, the Ditra decoupling membrane is s vapor barrier itself. The Ditra also takes the place of the usual Hardibacker or DuRock. The question becomes, if the Ditra provides a vapor barrier (it does) then is the traditional vapor barrier *under* the ply, still used?
Apparently , the makers of the Ditra say 'no'.


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I take the over plywood detail you posted as conditioned space below application.

The surface and in this case the bottom of subfloor will be the dew point for condensation.

It being rough #2 pine or such will allow the bottom of your plywood to take on moisture. That moisture will be transferred into the plywood raising moisture content of the plywood.

While maybe not a rot or mold issue, it will certainly be a movement issue over time. Really depends on how dry your crawl space is on average. Wet crawl space and plywood swells and as it dries it shrinks. Heave ho.
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Old 10-23-2016, 08:55 AM
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Here the requirement is 6-mil poly on the soil and turned up wall to sill plate with insulated subfloor with vapor barrier facing down
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