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Remodeling or Building Got a project going or finished... Got a question...

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  #31  
Old 10-23-2016, 10:44 AM
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I decided to install a vapor barrier under the ply, above the decking.

I read an article earlier about sealing the entire crawl space floor (soil) with heavy poly, special caulk, perforated vacuum tubes, spray foam, special tape, special piping and special "Radon Fans" and special sump pumps...

I dread the day that this house becomes so *special*.


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  #32  
Old 10-23-2016, 10:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vafatboy View Post
Here the requirement is 6-mil poly on the soil and turned up wall to sill plate with insulated subfloor with vapor barrier facing down


Do you install metal pest barrier atop the foundation under the sills or plates ?
The article I spoke of showed their super-sealed/insulated cabin had its sills resting directly atop cinder block stacks without metal caps. I have to sssume its in a cold climate with no termite issues.
Termites are a big problem here, so all supports must have a barrier (metal) above soil contacting piers.


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  #33  
Old 10-23-2016, 11:04 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSurly View Post
Do you install metal pest barrier atop the foundation under the sills or plates ?
The article I spoke of showed their super-sealed/insulated cabin had its sills resting directly atop cinder block stacks without metal caps. I have to sssume its in a cold climate with no termite issues.
Termites are a big problem here, so all supports must have a barrier (metal) above soil contacting piers.


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It's been a while (28 years) since I was in the residential game. Metal sill caps were on the way out in favor of synthetic roll material. It almost looks like foam.

At the time termite treatment of the soil around the foundation was the method that worked best. But of course, that chemical (chlordane) has been banned now. Not sure what they are using now.

Generally they are not a huge issue in this area.
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Old 10-23-2016, 02:36 PM
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Huge issue here.
I got some Home Depot 3mil black poly barrier. Plywood next





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  #35  
Old 10-23-2016, 05:00 PM
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I did the poly barrier under mine. That's how it was originally built.

My crawl space has poly barrier and round rock as ballast on top,

My whole floor is insulated with batt insulation under the whole house. I'm sure that was added later when the place was converted from a summer cabin to a permanent residence.
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Old 10-23-2016, 05:06 PM
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Question for the Pro Contractors

Interesting. Temperate climate here, so no hard winter concerns and most of these older pier and beams are not insulated under floor. Hell, *this* house had ZERO insulation, originally. Previous owners added attic insulation and I've been addressing the walls during each of my projects.
I'm not up on what they're doing on new construction p&bs in this area but I'd be surprised if any have poly over the soil. I'll have to check into that.


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  #37  
Old 10-23-2016, 09:50 PM
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Wow! How did we survive this far?

Was down around Kingman AZ some years ago, saw what looked like tiny termite tubing on outside of yucca tree. Broke some open, there were tiny termites in there, eating yucca wood. I'd of never thought to see termites in such a dry climate.

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  #38  
Old 10-24-2016, 01:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSurly View Post
I'm not up on what they're doing on new construction p&bs in this area but I'd be surprised if any have poly over the soil. I'll have to check into that.
I'm thinking the poly as a vapor barrier in a crawl space is one of those Universal Building codes. Not only does it relate to moisture, but bug, radon and energy.

As for your moisture barrier between the subfloor and your plywood, if you are not controlling the moisture in your crawl space, it probably is a good idea. Other than that, the issue before was not the ground moisture, but the leaky plumbing. If one has that again and does not seal the Ditra to the walls, you will have a similar problem. Odds are it won't be an issue in your lifetime regardless. Movement from swelling and shrinking due to moisture causing cracks in tile grout is more of a concern if the moisture is high and the area large. In small bathrooms when a good plywood is used and moisture is relatively stable, the use of a flexible additive in your grout(most modern grouts already have this) is about all one needs as there will be relatively little movement. If there is, it is generally a structural problem. Whenever I level floors, I try not to jack them more than a 1/8-1/4 inch at a time to prevent cracks in drywall/plaster and to prevent stress on plastic plumbing.

Good luck in your endeavor....looks like you are already making good progress.
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  #39  
Old 10-31-2016, 06:59 AM
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Question for the Pro Contractors

It's taking forever, but working on it when I get a chance. Some progress. Texture on the walls, now.


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  #40  
Old 10-31-2016, 07:39 AM
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Looking good Rickey.
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Old 10-31-2016, 08:56 AM
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Fantastic!
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Old 10-31-2016, 11:04 PM
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Good job Ricky!


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  #43  
Old 11-01-2016, 09:52 PM
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Did you buy the gun for shooting the texture or have it done?
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  #44  
Old 11-03-2016, 08:27 PM
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Question for the Pro Contractors

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Originally Posted by Big Cheese View Post
Did you buy the gun for shooting the texture or have it done?
Greatest invention, ever!
I got the cheap sprayer from HF of course, love the silly thing. Texturing has always been the worst part of drywall for me, and this thing is a huge work saver.





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  #45  
Old 11-03-2016, 10:52 PM
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I need to check out HF. My house has the knock down texture and I have been using the spray cans for repairs, pain in the butt with the spray cans...
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