Pushrod recommendation

[Berserker]

They will probably break, where engraved his name.

Who actually makes them?

Check this out. Thoughts?

Mr. Gray, with all due respects to Crane, do NOT buy, nor use Crane adjustable pushrods! I have heard of too may failures of those particular pushrods to trust them.

Stick with S&S, Rivera, or the Screamin' Eagle tapered pushrods. S&S are genuinely bulletproof, but, being 1/2" in diameter, unless everything is just right, they will rub the pushrod tubes.

[Type O]

check it out

http://www.andrewsproducts.com/PDF_f...TCPushrods.pdf

[genoway]

Originally Posted by GrayRider

Where's a good place to buy the Rivera pushrods?

You didn't read this thread, did you?

Or simply unwilling to accept the truth?

[genoway]

Originally Posted by 8-Ball

I've got GMR adjustable pushrods... they are great quality and have lasted through 5 builds... what more do you want.

Hmmm, 5 builds for you was what 5 months?

[genoway]

Originally Posted by Woody218

That's all true, Mr. Genoway, but what if you have a cam that Perfect Fit pushrods don't accomodate? If you have a cam with a non-stock base circle, and there are no Perfect Fit sizes to fit your need, then you are forced to use adjustable pushrods.

I don't like adjustable straight-wall aluminium pushrods, too fragile. But, I defy anyone to take a Rivera tapered aluminium pushrod and bend it with their bare hands.

Name the cam. This doesn't make sense to me.

[MegaGlide]

Originally Posted by 8-Ball

I've got GMR adjustable pushrods... they are great quality and have lasted through 5 builds... what more do you want.

We need a tongue-in-cheek smilie...

[genoway]

Originally Posted by MegaGlide

We need a tongue-in-cheek smilie...

Exactly!

Originally Posted by genoway

Name the cam. This doesn't make sense to me.

Okay, let's say we have a cam with a base circle that's .020" larger than stock. Also, we have a Cometic head gasket that is .030" instead of the stock .045". And, we have milled .030" off the heads. We want to keep the lifter plunger pretty much centered in it's amount of travel (.200" total travel, we want the plunger at .100"). To keep the plunger where we want it, we need pushrods that are .065" shorter than stock.

.020" on the cam
.015 head gasket
.030" head milling

The closest Perfect fit we can find is .060" undersize. Close, but, it moves the lifter plunger .005" closer to the top of the lifter.

If the cam's base circle is bigger than the example I noted (and some are), you can see where we need adjustable pushrods to get the valve train set up right.

[genoway]

Originally Posted by Woody218

Okay, let's say we have a cam with a base circle that's .020" larger than stock. Also, we have a Cometic head gasket that is .030" instead of the stock .045". And, we have milled .030" off the heads. We want to keep the lifter plunger pretty much centered in it's amount of travel (.200" total travel, we want the plunger at .100"). To keep the plunger where we want it, we need pushrods that are .065" shorter than stock.

.020" on the cam
.015 head gasket
.030" head milling

The closest Perfect fit we can find is .060" undersize. Close, but, it moves the lifter plunger .005" closer to the top of the lifter.

If the cam's base circle is bigger than the example I noted (and some are), you can see where we need adjustable pushrods to get the valve train set up right.

First of all, cam lift doestn't matter.

Next, .030 millng is ruidculus, and I have a hard time believing it, what is your static and dynamic and cam so i can compute it?

From what you said, your builder did you no favors.

Originally Posted by genoway

You didn't read this thread, did you?

Or simply unwilling to accept the truth?

I read it Steve. I had three shovelheads with adjustable pushrods and had no trouble. In fact, when the top end would get noisy due to the plungers in the lifters getting a little weak, I'd just re-adjust.

One piece pushrods have never made sense to me with hydraulic lifters. Once the lifter starts to fail, there's end play in the pushrods. Solid lifters would be a different story.

[genoway]

Originally Posted by GrayRider

I read it Steve. I had three shovelheads with adjustable pushrods and had no trouble. In fact, when the top end would get noisy due to the plungers in the lifters getting a little weak, I'd just re-adjust.

One piece pushrods have never made sense to me with hydraulic lifters. Once the lifter starts to fail, there's end play in the pushrods. Solid lifters would be a different story.

Very funny. You are a jokster.

Serously now, with hydarulic lifters they make the most sense!. if thhe lifters aint workin theN replaace THEM


BTW, I am only talkin about your TC, will not give you advice on your shove.

Originally Posted by genoway

First of all, cam lift doestn't matter.

Next, .030 millng is ruidculus, and I have a hard time believing it, what is your static and dynamic and cam so i can compute it?

From what you said, your builder did you no favors.

Steven, it's not my build, I just used those figures as an example. Nowhere in there did I mention cam lift, what I did mention was the base circle diameter of the cam. That matters a great deal!

[route66paul]

Originally Posted by Woody218

Yeah, and if you keep solid pushrods, you get the joy of pulling the top end apart so you can change the cams. With adjustables, you don't need to:

1. Drain the fuel tank

2. Remove the tank

3. Remove the entire exhaust system

4. Remove the rocker boxes

5. Remove old pushrods.

Using adjustable pushrods will save at minimum, an hour of your time vs. solid pushrods.

I have never had an adjustable pushrod back off or come loose. Never. Also, if you use the little tapered tool from Jims to correctly align the rocker boxes when you bolt them on, the adjustable pushrods will not rub on a pushrod tube.

Also, some engines like to have a tad more preload in the lifters. With adjustables, it's easy. With solids, you are stuck with what you have.

What is an hour of your time worth? If you are paying dealer prices, an hour would still be worth it.

Originally Posted by Woody218

That's all true, Mr. Genoway, but what if you have a cam that Perfect Fit pushrods don't accomodate? If you have a cam with a non-stock base circle, and there are no Perfect Fit sizes to fit your need, then you are forced to use adjustable pushrods.

I don't like adjustable straight-wall aluminium pushrods, too fragile. But, I defy anyone to take a Rivera tapered aluminium pushrod and bend it with their bare hands.

I think that the math can be done. The only reason for for non-base circle cams is that they are high lift, so they should be in the ballpark. do the math.

There is a lot of play in hydraulic lifters, .060 is common. most people with street builds could easily get away with stock push rods, particuliary with non-base circle cams.

Originally Posted by Woody218

Okay, let's say we have a cam with a base circle that's .020" larger than stock. Also, we have a Cometic head gasket that is .030" instead of the stock .045". And, we have milled .030" off the heads. We want to keep the lifter plunger pretty much centered in it's amount of travel (.200" total travel, we want the plunger at .100"). To keep the plunger where we want it, we need pushrods that are .065" shorter than stock.

.020" on the cam
.015 head gasket
.030" head milling

The closest Perfect fit we can find is .060" undersize. Close, but, it moves the lifter plunger .005" closer to the top of the lifter.

If the cam's base circle is bigger than the example I noted (and some are), you can see where we need adjustable pushrods to get the valve train set up right.

Woody, with all due respect, the only reason to make a cam non-base circle is to make it smaller than stock. This is to accomodate the high lift and still turn without obstructions(like the sides of the camchest). So, your example of a .020 difference (smaller) base circle would make it .025 too long, well within what the lifter manufacturers' state.

I do not know, but I would suspect that a smaller base circle would be more like a .100 or even a .200 difference, to accomodate the lift. If a cam over .575 should have cam chest clearancing, then a cam with a .650 lift would be expected to have a .100 smaller base circle. This measurment seems to be very critical on TC engines, particuliary with chain drive cams.


As long as you can get within .040, you will be okay, if you can get within .015, you are doing great. There are those who advocate useing more turns(a longer pushrod). This seems to quiet some engines down.