#31
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They will probably break, where engraved his name.
Who actually makes them? |
#32
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Check this out. Thoughts?
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#33
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Mr. Gray, with all due respects to Crane, do NOT buy, nor use Crane adjustable pushrods! I have heard of too may failures of those particular pushrods to trust them.
Stick with S&S, Rivera, or the Screamin' Eagle tapered pushrods. S&S are genuinely bulletproof, but, being 1/2" in diameter, unless everything is just right, they will rub the pushrod tubes. |
#34
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10+5+20+15-7=43 Russ doofs at the beach |
#35
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You didn't read this thread, did you?
Or simply unwilling to accept the truth?
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#36
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Hmmm, 5 builds for you was what 5 months?
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#37
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Quote:
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#38
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We need a tongue-in-cheek smilie...
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Just another damn "Dave" Decidedly unpleasant, does not play well with others. Fluent in Pidgin Cigar Spanish. http://sherlynpopelka.net/ Revelation 19:11 And I saw heaven opened, and behold a white horse; and he that sat upon him was called Faithful and True, and in righteousness he doth judge and make war. *Usual manly disclaimer applies, if applicable.
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#39
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#40
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Okay, let's say we have a cam with a base circle that's .020" larger than stock. Also, we have a Cometic head gasket that is .030" instead of the stock .045". And, we have milled .030" off the heads. We want to keep the lifter plunger pretty much centered in it's amount of travel (.200" total travel, we want the plunger at .100"). To keep the plunger where we want it, we need pushrods that are .065" shorter than stock. .020" on the cam .015 head gasket .030" head milling The closest Perfect fit we can find is .060" undersize. Close, but, it moves the lifter plunger .005" closer to the top of the lifter. If the cam's base circle is bigger than the example I noted (and some are), you can see where we need adjustable pushrods to get the valve train set up right. |
#41
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Next, .030 millng is ruidculus, and I have a hard time believing it, what is your static and dynamic and cam so i can compute it? From what you said, your builder did you no favors.
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#42
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One piece pushrods have never made sense to me with hydraulic lifters. Once the lifter starts to fail, there's end play in the pushrods. Solid lifters would be a different story. |
#43
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Serously now, with hydarulic lifters they make the most sense!. if thhe lifters aint workin theN replaace THEM BTW, I am only talkin about your TC, will not give you advice on your shove.
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Last edited by genoway; 07-04-2008 at 05:05 PM. |
#44
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Quote:
Steven, it's not my build, I just used those figures as an example. Nowhere in there did I mention cam lift, what I did mention was the base circle diameter of the cam. That matters a great deal! |
#45
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Quote:
Quote:
There is a lot of play in hydraulic lifters, .060 is common. most people with street builds could easily get away with stock push rods, particuliary with non-base circle cams. Quote:
Woody, with all due respect, the only reason to make a cam non-base circle is to make it smaller than stock. This is to accomodate the high lift and still turn without obstructions(like the sides of the camchest). So, your example of a .020 difference (smaller) base circle would make it .025 too long, well within what the lifter manufacturers' state. I do not know, but I would suspect that a smaller base circle would be more like a .100 or even a .200 difference, to accomodate the lift. If a cam over .575 should have cam chest clearancing, then a cam with a .650 lift would be expected to have a .100 smaller base circle. This measurment seems to be very critical on TC engines, particuliary with chain drive cams. As long as you can get within .040, you will be okay, if you can get within .015, you are doing great. There are those who advocate useing more turns(a longer pushrod). This seems to quiet some engines down.
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just sayin'......... Dumbasses "The more corrupt the state, the more numerous the laws." (Tacitus, Roman historian 55-117 A.D.) Original 43%er CAT HERDER GORGE CROSSER SKYLINE My buddy!
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