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  #1  
Old 08-15-2015, 07:16 PM
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Reflecting on the Ricky Surly induction seal allen bolts mods

It seems you could (?) buy a set of hex head bolts to replace the factory socket (allen socket) bolts. probably some kind of specialty bolt with 3/8" heads and a washer type support flange. But where to find them?

Snap-On makes some very "flexible" 1/4" drive universal sockets that could get in there better than that dang allen ball tip socket.

I have that in 3/8" drive ball tip along with a wobble tip Snap-On extension and my Mac Tools ball universal I am able to get in there and loosen / remove the induction manifold socket allen bolts.


What a PIA...


Didn't seem too tightly torqued and those tapered rubber seals is all that holds it all on? (besides the oil vapor bolts going into the front and rear heads and it's support plate / bracket).


FM ( fookin' magic) for sure...


For sure you have to pull off the fuel tank to give much needed access. that is a breeze on the 2011 with no crossover hose.

After this shotgun blast will be everything inside the tank, hoses, filter housing, regulator and fuel pump. If the intake seals don't fix this fookin' problem.


I think the dealer is telling a tall tale when they say they replaced the intake seals and they only had the bike in the back for an hour or less...
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Old 08-15-2015, 08:13 PM
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Lying Bastids. I sure hate that for you Tom. Wish I had my a/r, I'd open it up for you real gud!
Time to roll out of Lone Wolf HD in Spokane.


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Old 08-15-2015, 09:18 PM
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The dealer tale was from years ago on my oh six, while it was still under warranty.


Just reflecting on how it's on the heads and how easy it is to get to.
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Old 08-16-2015, 12:51 AM
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Tom, I have bought and tried the various tools but I'm tellin ya that on those *left side* bolts, the ability to use a 3/8" open end makes it so stupid simple that you just can't believe the factory doesn't use these. The left side bolts also don't have to be removed, only loosened due to the slotted flanges.
Cutting the bolts as I did was also easy using the tool shown. I just used the existing hex to guide where to cut the flats. It's really simple AND the sockets are retained in case you want to use an allen in it.
Once you use an open end on these two bolts you'll be amazed.



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Old 08-16-2015, 09:19 AM
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Thanks Ricky.

Great tip and a better picture and explanation of how to. I am lacking any sort of shop space and my only 50 YO vise is in storage because that is the only place it can fit (no room in the bike storage closet) and I had to put it away because I almost lost it to a person who has access to my bike closet "because I wasn't using it" they thought they could take it...

I am amazed that those seals work at all.

Mine were still quite pliable, I had tried the carb cleaner trick and it didn't seem to affect the idle speed or make it stumble.

I figure I might as well start with the seals and get that out of the way before moving on to the tank plumbing.


It's hard to imagine that the PV map went strange, but stranger things and all...


Replacing the fuel filter did help the issue some, but after many miles I can tell it is a lean mix misfire,(really happens with steady light throttle load between 2,700 - 2,900 RPM's) and if you pay attention you can feel a slight surge at steady throttle around 3,000 - 3,200 RPM's.

Maybe the housing is slightly cracked, the regulator is weak, convoluted tubing leaking or...?
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Last edited by Fe Butte; 08-16-2015 at 10:30 AM.
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Old 08-16-2015, 01:36 PM
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Reflecting on the Ricky Surly induction seal allen bolts mods

First, be aware that on top of the TB there's a rubber cap that could split and cause s leak.

The injector o-rings can create a vacuum leak as well.
You can set a digital gauge on the PV to display the AFR front and AFR rear and see if the numbers are going wonky while riding.
You can use Quick Tune to add fuel in "mid". Up it say, 20% to see if it makes a noticeable difference.


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Old 08-16-2015, 01:41 PM
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Do you have the "pro" auto tune set up?
Have you been using the auto tune basic?


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Old 08-16-2015, 01:47 PM
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Yep that cap is there, thanks CA EVAP purge fitting.

Mine is not CA smog compliant. Yay!

Guess I need to fiddle with the PV more. No one close that I can compare hands on notes with.
I've stopped lugging it around hoping to get pointers about it.

Asking any of the local tuners, they all say they won't use power commander inline tuners. They turn on that glazed look when I try to explain it's a PROM writing device.
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Old 08-16-2015, 01:51 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSurly View Post
First, be aware that on top of the TB there's a rubber cap that could split and cause s leak.

The injector o-rings can create a vacuum leak as well.
You can set a digital gauge on the PV to display the AFR front and AFR rear and see if the numbers are going wonky while riding.
You can use Quick Tune to add fuel in "mid". Up it say, 20% to see if it makes a noticeable difference.


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Still setting the front and rear O2 high (lean corrections? ) codes then later the CKP sync error.

I'm thinking the sync error is kind of a misfire monitor code.

(motorcycles not fully OBD 2 like cars?)
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Old 08-16-2015, 01:53 PM
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Have you updated the firmware on the PV? The load tune window should have eight slots.




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Old 08-16-2015, 04:31 PM
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Are you saying I need to reinstall the map?

I haven't done anything since I installed the PV fuel moto map for the 2-1 exhaust and stage one (theirs) air filter.
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Old 08-16-2015, 04:35 PM
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I don't know about the sync error... Misfire codes exist separately .
Crank sensor can certainly cause a bunch of issues because *everything* the ECM does is based on it.
Did this issue begin suddenly? Did it coincide with service work or any repair or etc?
Have you done any auto tuning?


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Old 08-16-2015, 04:36 PM
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Any other codes? Lean O2s?


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Old 08-16-2015, 04:38 PM
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Exhaust removal can result in O2s getting swapped. The one with the black connector should be screwed into the rear cylinder's location in the collector.


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  #15  
Old 08-16-2015, 06:04 PM
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Fe Butte has forgotten more about Harleys than you'll ever knowFe Butte has forgotten more about Harleys than you'll ever knowFe Butte has forgotten more about Harleys than you'll ever knowFe Butte has forgotten more about Harleys than you'll ever knowFe Butte has forgotten more about Harleys than you'll ever knowFe Butte has forgotten more about Harleys than you'll ever knowFe Butte has forgotten more about Harleys than you'll ever knowFe Butte has forgotten more about Harleys than you'll ever knowFe Butte has forgotten more about Harleys than you'll ever knowFe Butte has forgotten more about Harleys than you'll ever knowFe Butte has forgotten more about Harleys than you'll ever know
Just the P0132 & P0152 codes come back after clearing, then the CKP sync code comes back after some lean misfiring. P0374...uploadfromtaptalk1439766122099.jpg

The O2 connectors have been correct orientation since before Red Lodge.

The misfiring started this past May.

These get in there pretty good, I should look into upgrading to a 1/4" set up. Those bolts could probably be over torqued with 1/4 drive as the torque is a max of 144 inch pounds...
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