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Doof Lore The Beginning, The Wrench, Rites, and Rituals...

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Old 02-12-2007, 07:15 PM
8-Ball
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The Birth of Doof Clena 43



Copy and paste version without pictures.


nw_guy4_fun 05-16-2006 12:39 AM
I don't have a clue what Doof Clena is maybe Vulcan
But I agree about the pipe overscavenging. I have observed this with Thunderheaders and the AFR in the pipe doesn't match the actual burn. So if the tune if being done by individual cylinders (EFI SERT or PCIII) can be a mile off. I have never seen anyone other than Grock acknowlege such a condition exists. the ^^^ wer just a sign to look at post #6 above. Thanks for the info.

Totenkopf 05-16-2006 07:16 AM
On my last dyno tune in mid March, the tech purposely cross checked front to rear cylinder AFR by using the front primary tube O2 sensor bung in my LSR pipe and then making sure the sniffer probe was up the rear cylinder primary tube also. We were trying to minimize the minor torque dip at 2600 and to get the motor to produce equally from each cylinder and consequently smoother running. Using this method definitely made progress.

DOOF is food spelled backwards? that can't be right.
Dual Output On Fuel? Nah!
Dual Observation On Fuel? hmmmmm............

CLENA is mispelled and should be CLEAN?
Curve LEAN?

No idea what it is and there are no hits on Google either. So whatever it is, only HDWrench knows.

Wrench, you are going to have to clue us in.

LE PEW 05-16-2006 07:26 AM
You need a doof clena fuel curve first

I'm imagining Wrench speaking in Bob Dylans voice as he typed that line. I'll take the liberty of trying to translate

"You need a good clean fuel curve first"

nw_guy4_fun 05-16-2006 08:34 AM
Toten
The torque dip we commonly see can be tuned out slightly, but the root cause is usually the pipe. Not ranking the LSR it is a good pipe. The problem is that it is generic and to optimize it may take some backyard devices such as Dr Dyno uses if it can be adapted, lolly pop device round head with an external adjustment. Not familiar with the pipe so can't comment if this is feasable. IMO some of the characteristic TH torque dip can be cleaned by bending the baffles slightly and tuning the cylinders individually to what they truely are burning at an offset of what AFR is measured in the pipe near the port. A plug cut will confirm what I propose about the overscavenging, as will a cylinder head temp reading.

Totenkopf 05-16-2006 09:23 AM
Quote:
Originally Posted by nw_guy4_fun
Toten
The torque dip we commonly see can be tuned out slightly, but the root cause is usually the pipe. Not ranking the LSR it is a good pipe. The problem is that it is generic and to optimize it may take some backyard devices such as Dr Dyno uses if it can be adapted, lolly pop device round head with an external adjustment. Not familiar with the pipe so can't comment if this is feasable. IMO some of the characteristic TH torque dip can be cleaned by bending the baffles slightly and tuning the cylinders individually to what they truely are burning at an offset of what AFR is measured in the pipe near the port. A plug cut will confirm what I propose about the overscavenging, as will a cylinder head temp reading.

nw_guy,
Thanks! Otto and I feel the same. We're going to throw my bike back on the dyno soon and do a simple test of providing some back pressure during a pull to see if the dip minimizes even more. If it does, we have some ideas on how to modify it, as we've been discussing this for months.

GRock has been very helpful in me understanding this too and has also pointed out that this is typical of the LSR on "small motors". Apparently this over scavenging issue goes away when using the 2" primary version on the big inch motors he's built and tuned.

We'll figure it out! We've got time and money on our side.

DEVILDOG 05-16-2006 09:39 AM
What about carb guys?

I have the Thunderheader on my 95" (HTCC stuff and Woods TW-5G cam) and will be bending the baffel mod tonight but do I need to make an initial rear cylinder offset on my Crane ignition (set at zero now)? No way to dial in AF ratio for each cylinder like an injected bike. Also, I have the header pipes wrapped with exhaust wrap and I have heard this will increase the overscavenging effect even more.

What is more typical on carb bike with a 2-1 system - Lean front or lean rear???

On mine, it seems the front cylinder is leaner then the rear (confirmed by the plug check). Do I want to retard (minus on the Crane) rear cylinder offset or advance?

Just want to get this thing close while breaking it in.

Thanks,
DEVILDOG

nw_guy4_fun 05-16-2006 08:16 PM
Leave the offset alone. Without a dyno to verify what is really happening I see no advantage. By offset I refered to tuning the cylinder that gets overscavenged to a very fat AFR. No way to do that with a carb. The TH mod is worthwhile for most setups carb or EFI
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