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Remodeling or Building Got a project going or finished... Got a question...

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Old 10-01-2017, 09:16 AM
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Transom Repair

Started repair of a wet and in some places rotten transom.
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Old 10-01-2017, 12:49 PM
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How do you keep it on the wall like that?
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Old 10-01-2017, 01:40 PM
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Wood between the, inner and outer transom, panels rotted?


They have / there is the tech to pressure soak that panel of wood with resin to the point it won't rot. Basically resin injected wood.
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Old 10-01-2017, 02:10 PM
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Are you using Coosa Board ?
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Old 10-01-2017, 02:39 PM
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Old 10-01-2017, 03:50 PM
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How do you keep it on the wall like that?
Velcro.
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Old 10-01-2017, 03:56 PM
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I have some experience with this. I started mine the same way.....and then the pro at the fiberglas repair shop told me I did it wrong. I ended up having to remove the rear portion of the deck (as he had said) and it all worked out great... just harder doing it my way first.

Random note: don't use pressure treated wood
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Old 10-01-2017, 05:47 PM
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I have repaired a couple of transoms when I used to work at a boat shop. We usually cut the glass from the inside rather than the outside. That way the exterior gelcoat stayed intact. As noted, one should stay away from pressure treated wood, but would want to spend the extra money for marine grade plywood and then seal the exterior surface and edges with fiberglass resin. It can be a pain in the ass, especially when the stringers in the floor get dry rot in them too.
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Old 10-01-2017, 06:30 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSurly View Post
I have some experience with this. I started mine the same way.....and then the pro at the fiberglas repair shop told me I did it wrong. I ended up having to remove the rear portion of the deck (as he had said) and it all worked out great... just harder doing it my way first.

Random note: don't use pressure treated wood


Ricky

Repairing from the outside is taboo to some. Using epoxy resin instead of polyester resin is a must when from the out side. I have researched and read just about everything out there on web. There are plenty of successful repairs done from the outside.

One of the arguments for inside only is if your transom is shot, so are the stringers. In this case the stringers are foam filled fiberglass and are bone dry.

I don’t buy into the idea that one destroys the integrity of the hull when removing the outer skin. If you prep things right and use epoxy it’ll be fine.

West Systems is generally regarded as the end all be all for fiberglass repair and they describe the process here.

http://www.westsystem.com/wp-content...anual-2015.pdf

Got the plywood out, 90% of the transom was wet, delaminating, but no rot to speak of. Getting the wood out from edge of cut to hull side and bottom is going to be a bitch. Using a forstner bit is working, but it’s slow going.

I might order one of these.

https://m.harborfreight.com/22-tooth...not%20provided


No pressure treated plywood.......ponied up for marine plywood at 114.00 per 4x8x3/4. Just found out I’ll need a sheet of 5/8 too. It was layed up with 4x8x3/4 and 1/2 inch ply originally....also had a thin layer of mat between them. Ply is not quite of nominal thickness anymore. I have room for a layer of 3/4 and a layer of 5/8 ths.
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Old 10-01-2017, 06:47 PM
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Originally Posted by Inspector 12 View Post
I have repaired a couple of transoms when I used to work at a boat shop. We usually cut the glass from the inside rather than the outside. That way the exterior gelcoat stayed intact. As noted, one should stay away from pressure treated wood, but would want to spend the extra money for marine grade plywood and then seal the exterior surface and edges with fiberglass resin. It can be a pain in the ass, especially when the stringers in the floor get dry rot in them too.

This is a 42 year old boat and the gel coat is shot. Many items mounted here and there over the years. I’ve already started repairing holes, nicks and other things in the gel coat. Small crazing is getting “toothed” with a burr on a dremel and patched with fairing compound. Larger areas that need strength are being done with epoxy thickened with colloidal silica. When it’s all done it’ll get painted.

One of the reasons I decided to repair it is these hulls are highly regarded.
Top of the list of this vintage is Seacraft and I think it’s a toss up between Aquasport (what I have) and Mako. I fished Mako’s of this era and length and I’m pretty sure this Aquasport is a third or better lighter than a Mako. I prefer the ride of the Aquasport over the Mako.
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Old 10-01-2017, 06:49 PM
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Are you using Coosa Board ?

No....but the new plywood will get a penetrating coat of epoxy.
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Old 10-01-2017, 06:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fe Butte View Post
Wood between the, inner and outer transom, panels rotted?


They have / there is the tech to pressure soak that panel of wood with resin to the point it won't rot. Basically resin injected wood.
Tom

I agonized over and over about using those epoxies.....they work if the wood dry and there’s the rub. No way know if you dried the wood. They won’t work if the wood is wet. As it turns out I’m glad I didn’t go that route. Plywood was soaked in the center section and damp all over.
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Old 10-01-2017, 08:00 PM
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Geeze, can't even get good wood anymore. (let the mocking begin)


I guess I mean they could lay the ply together, when they build / make it, to have more resin in the process.
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Old 10-02-2017, 02:29 PM
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Warren, consider spraying GelCoat, rather than painting. I've done it a few times (See the Cloudmobile) and while it's truly a pain to sand, compound initially, it pays dividends for decades in permanence and durability.
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Old 10-02-2017, 02:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MrSurly View Post
Warren, consider spraying GelCoat, rather than painting. I've done it a few times (See the Cloudmobile) and while it's truly a pain to sand, compound initially, it pays dividends for decades in permanence and durability.

I have considered it......problem is compatibility with epoxy resins. I’m going to use a paint that can be wet sanded and buffed.
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