Question for the Pro Contractors

[MrSurly]

I decided to install a vapor barrier under the ply, above the decking.

I read an article earlier about sealing the entire crawl space floor (soil) with heavy poly, special caulk, perforated vacuum tubes, spray foam, special tape, special piping and special "Radon Fans" and special sump pumps...

I dread the day that this house becomes so *special*.


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[MrSurly]

Originally Posted by vafatboy

Here the requirement is 6-mil poly on the soil and turned up wall to sill plate with insulated subfloor with vapor barrier facing down

Do you install metal pest barrier atop the foundation under the sills or plates ?
The article I spoke of showed their super-sealed/insulated cabin had its sills resting directly atop cinder block stacks without metal caps. I have to sssume its in a cold climate with no termite issues.
Termites are a big problem here, so all supports must have a barrier (metal) above soil contacting piers.


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[vafatboy]

Originally Posted by MrSurly

Do you install metal pest barrier atop the foundation under the sills or plates ?
The article I spoke of showed their super-sealed/insulated cabin had its sills resting directly atop cinder block stacks without metal caps. I have to sssume its in a cold climate with no termite issues.
Termites are a big problem here, so all supports must have a barrier (metal) above soil contacting piers.


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It's been a while (28 years) since I was in the residential game. Metal sill caps were on the way out in favor of synthetic roll material. It almost looks like foam.

At the time termite treatment of the soil around the foundation was the method that worked best. But of course, that chemical (chlordane) has been banned now. Not sure what they are using now.

Generally they are not a huge issue in this area.

[MrSurly]

Huge issue here.
I got some Home Depot 3mil black poly barrier. Plywood next





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[Big Cheese]

I did the poly barrier under mine. That's how it was originally built.

My crawl space has poly barrier and round rock as ballast on top,

My whole floor is insulated with batt insulation under the whole house. I'm sure that was added later when the place was converted from a summer cabin to a permanent residence.

[MrSurly]

Interesting. Temperate climate here, so no hard winter concerns and most of these older pier and beams are not insulated under floor. Hell, *this* house had ZERO insulation, originally. Previous owners added attic insulation and I've been addressing the walls during each of my projects.
I'm not up on what they're doing on new construction p&bs in this area but I'd be surprised if any have poly over the soil. I'll have to check into that.


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[Fe Butte]

Wow! How did we survive this far?

Was down around Kingman AZ some years ago, saw what looked like tiny termite tubing on outside of yucca tree. Broke some open, there were tiny termites in there, eating yucca wood. I'd of never thought to see termites in such a dry climate.

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[buck]

Originally Posted by MrSurly

I'm not up on what they're doing on new construction p&bs in this area but I'd be surprised if any have poly over the soil. I'll have to check into that.

I'm thinking the poly as a vapor barrier in a crawl space is one of those Universal Building codes. Not only does it relate to moisture, but bug, radon and energy.

As for your moisture barrier between the subfloor and your plywood, if you are not controlling the moisture in your crawl space, it probably is a good idea. Other than that, the issue before was not the ground moisture, but the leaky plumbing. If one has that again and does not seal the Ditra to the walls, you will have a similar problem. Odds are it won't be an issue in your lifetime regardless. Movement from swelling and shrinking due to moisture causing cracks in tile grout is more of a concern if the moisture is high and the area large. In small bathrooms when a good plywood is used and moisture is relatively stable, the use of a flexible additive in your grout(most modern grouts already have this) is about all one needs as there will be relatively little movement. If there is, it is generally a structural problem. Whenever I level floors, I try not to jack them more than a 1/8-1/4 inch at a time to prevent cracks in drywall/plaster and to prevent stress on plastic plumbing.

Good luck in your endeavor....looks like you are already making good progress.

[MrSurly]

It's taking forever, but working on it when I get a chance. Some progress. Texture on the walls, now.

[vafatboy]

Looking good Rickey.

[Fe Butte]

Fantastic!

[Infidel!]

Good job Ricky!


Now stop peeing on the floor

[Big Cheese]

Did you buy the gun for shooting the texture or have it done?

[MrSurly]

Originally Posted by Big Cheese

Did you buy the gun for shooting the texture or have it done?

Greatest invention, ever!
I got the cheap sprayer from HF of course, love the silly thing. Texturing has always been the worst part of drywall for me, and this thing is a huge work saver.





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[Big Cheese]

I need to check out HF. My house has the knock down texture and I have been using the spray cans for repairs, pain in the butt with the spray cans...