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Old 09-20-2016, 02:38 PM
eighty80 eighty80 is offline
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Right side noise?

1. What does a bad cam bearing noise sound like?

2. What do worn out cam chain shoes sound like?

3. What does a bad oil pump sound like?

I have a 2012 Ti-glide with a 120R motor. It only has about 7,000 miles on it.

The other day I rode about 200 miles and came home. I stopped in front of the garage, shut the trike off. Went into the garage and took all my riding gear off. Opened the garage door, went out and took a whiz. So, about 10-15 mins past.

Got on the trike and started it up. I heard a whining noise out of the right side. I pulled it in the garage and shut it off.

Normally I ride with a helmet but I didn't ride it into the garage with the helmet on. So I'm not use to hearing the engine bare naked.

Now I'm afraid to start it?????? What to do??????
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Old 09-20-2016, 06:35 PM
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Who installed the motor and by chance is there any warranty???


1. Bad cam bearing may be a squeal.
2. Cam shoe tensioners may not make any noise. That's why they have recommended interval inspection.
3. Bad oil pump may be silent. Might notice lack of pressure. Older pumps may develop a squealing on the mating surface between the cam plate and the oil pump.

What to do.

1. Check oil level.
2. Drain oil and check oil plug magnet for anything that's larger than sludge. If there's any chunks, or splinter looking stuff then step #3
3. Drain the sump plug under the cam chest and check for metal.
4. Remove the exhaust header and cam cover.
4. Inspect the external cam tensioner for wear. If you can use a small dental mirror to see the inside tensioner, do that. If not, then your at the serious decision time below.
5. If you can't see the inside cam tensioner, there's only one other way to inspect and that's to pull the cam plate.

SERIOUS DECISION TIME....................

6. Decide if your willing to remove the rocker covers and rocker arms to pull out the pushrods in order to relieve the pressure on the lifters. If not, then you'll have to cut out the pushrods and replace them with adjustable ones when it goes back together.
7. If you removed the rockers covers and rockers, then remove the pushrods, and pull out the lifters. Check the lifter rollers for wear and possible bearing issues with the roller action. Harley lifters have been extremely suspect of late. If you've got 20k plus or more miles on them I'd replace them regardless with S&S, Comp Cam 850-1's, or another reputable lifter of your choosing. Anything but stock. If your not removing the rockers, jump to step #9.
8. If you pulled the rocker cover and rockers, inspect rocker where it contacts the top of the valve stem for imprints/damage. If damaged, replace the rocker. If you cut out the pushrods, disregard this as you won't have access to inspect it.
9. If you didn't pull the rocker covers/rockers, remove the pushrod cover retainer and slide up the lower pushrod cover. Using a heavy duty bolt cutter, cut the pushrod in two and remove. You may want to find the base circle on the cams as this will relieve pressure on the valve springs before you cut them.
10. If you used step #9, now go back to #7 now to remove the lifters and follow those instructions.
11. Remove the timing chain and gears. You'll need a locking tool to hold them in place while removing the bolts.
12. Remove the 4 bolts in the cam plate securing the oil pump.
13. Remove the bolts holding the cam plate in the housing. Carefully extract the cam plate trying not to allow the inner gerotors of the oil pump to fall out. This is important as the oil may make them stick together and when they fall out the orientation may not be apparent. it's very important they go back together exactly as they were.
14. Inspect the inner cam bearing.
15. Replace the inner cam bearings in the case.
16. Check the cam lobes for wear and replace if strong evidence of wear.
17. Some of the new cam plates don't have cam bearings and only have bushings.
18. Inspect the inner workings of the oil pump and replace if you see dimpling on any surfaces, or can hook a nail in any gouges inside the housing.
19. If you see metal shavings in here, then you may be looking at total engine tear down and flush out to see where you have more issues.


If you don't have one, a manual is priceless. Either that, or have someone close by who can help.
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Last edited by Backroad Mike; 10-10-2016 at 04:30 AM.
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Old 09-20-2016, 07:04 PM
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I love the cutting of push rods!


First time I did it, under guidance of a motor mechanic from the department, I took the bolt cutters and went at it.

He goes, boy you just cut those like nothing to it.

I go, yeah? wasn't I supposed to cut them?

He goes, yeah, but usually most people he shows how to do it are kind of timid, like they don't want to hurt them...

I say, well they had to come out and I wasn't worried about hurting them.
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Old 09-20-2016, 09:37 PM
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Thank's for all the info Mike!!

I bought the motor new from the HD dealer, he installed it. No warranty now.

I did not like the way it ran, (top end speed too high). I took it to an indy and had him put S&S 585 cams and adj. push rods in it. He also dynoed it. Ran great till now (squeal).? I will start with your oil instructions first. Thank's again.
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Old 10-09-2016, 05:48 PM
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Checked oil level, good.

Ran Wards fans. Good.

Jumper ed and ran Ultra oil cooler fans. Good.

Drained engine oil and oil filter. Did not find any metal sparkles or slivers on drain plug. Good.

Put new filter and oil in. Good.

Started engine, no oil leaks or noise. So I took it for a ride and got it nice and hot. Oil psi. was 32 while riding which is normal for this bike with helmet. Came home and put it away as before. NO NOISE!! I don't think I have the problem I thought I had......?
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Old 10-10-2016, 05:39 PM
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Sounding better sounds good.
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