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Suspension Shocks, Forks, Front Ends, Stabilizers, etc...

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  #31  
Old 03-04-2016, 03:13 PM
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Fork options, '01 RK

We want to get the wheels in line with each other AND in line with the bike.
Here's how I went about it: I started with how to determine that the frame is "plumb":
The only reliable reference that I could access without disassembly? The front brake
rotors.
I know that once everything is in line and the frame is level/plumb that the front
rotors will
also be plumb. However, their position relative to the frame must be perfectly centered
and locked in order to measure anything else.
I arranged a buck-fifty worth of hardware store pieces to make an adjustable holder.

Now, how to determine "center"?
I used the swing arm mounting pads as the reference for this.
Looking closely you'll see the laser on it, right under the side cover

Note that if the pipes weren't in the way, you could just use a framing square for
this bit.
Unlike seat rails or sissy bars, I am certain that the factory frame
building process DOES tightly control the relationship between these two heavy
machined steel pieces and the steering head axis. These are the very heart of the
frame's geometry. this next is off topic, just skip it... Now, it
is plausible that the swing arm mounts on some bikes are offset to one side, some
have shaft drives or one-sided swing arms, but the point is the same, thought the
measuring and calculation for offset would differ. (You'd have to use the *axis*
of the swing arm pivot as the basis...but I digress. ) We are fortunate that the
Mothership happened to place these mounts symmetrically to make it easy for us
to measure.

Next: to proceed, you will need an adjustable jack such as a BlackJack or maybe
even two of them. I had none at the time so I built this little jack thing to provide
three-axis adjustment and allow lifting both tires off the ground.

Use whatever, but don't use wood... the support has to be rock-solid during set up.
In order to set the position of the front rotors, I needed to determine center of the
bike. (You can't use the rear tire, were going to be moving it)
I set up the bike on the jack stand, more or less level (plumb) and raised the tires
just barely off the concrete.

I attached my turnbuckle to the engine guard and the fork as shown.

This next tool is a laser line level and is NOT necessary for this step, you could
actually use a string plumb bob for this.

I used the laser line level to mark a spot on the concrete directly below the outside
edge of the swing arm pivot mounts on each side.

I then measured between these marks and placed a piece of tape marking the
center between them. This will represent the lateral center of the bike.

Next, a small magnetic laser pointer was placed on a front rotor.

It isn't mandatory that the laser be parallel to the surface, but it is desirable as it
saves a lot of steps. What is a must is that it attaches securely and repeatably
hits the same mark. You can check for parallel by measuring the width of the
rotors plus the offset for the laser (doubled)


The turnbuckle was snugged so the fork was locked "close to" center.
By rolling the wheel and placing pencil marks at a distance, then moving the laser
to the other front rotor and repeating, I determined the total width of the rotors
plus the laser. Dividing this to get the offset to center of the front wheel.

I then adjusted the turnbuckle to fine tune the position of the forks until the lasers
indicated that the front rotors were exactly centered with the swing arm mounting
pads.

The turnbuckle was locked down. At this point I leveled the bike by again using the
front rotors and a digital level.

By the way, I tested and proved this level before and after to be sure.
Once the rotors are leveled, then the frame is without doubt, as level as a man can
make it without disassembly and prettier tools.

Now, the critical part is done...on to the alignment.
If you haven't already, remove the gas tank and disconnect (don't just 'loosen',
disconnect) the Heim joint link at the top between the heads.
Loosen the lock nuts on the link at front of the engine.
Loosen the long bolt that goes through the front motor mount.
*Important, don't skip this* Loosen the two small bolts that hold the motor mount
to the frame.
Using the magnetic laser attach it to the front disc brake. Lay a long straight edge
on the floor and align it next to the laser dot, then roll the front wheel and set the
straight edge to follow the position proscribed by the laser as far to the rear as
you can.

Attach the laser to the rear rotor, compare the laser's line as you turn the rear
wheel slightly and see how close to parallel it is with the straight edge. If you
have TWO straight edges, even better.

It will not be the same distance from center, we're only looking for parallel.
Now adjust the front lower engine link to adjust the position of the engine/swing
arm/wheel to bring the rear wheel's laser line into parallel with the straight edge.

Now, place the digital LEVEL on the rear rotor. Adjust the upper engine link to
plumb the rear rotor.



You will need next to recheck the rear wheel for parallel, reaffirm the front rotors
are plumb.

Reinstall the front motor mount bolts, making sure to position
the mount before tightening
so that the bolts line up without putting the
mount or the engine in a bind.
Just for grins, place the digital level across the seat rails....just to see if it is a valid
reference on YOUR bike.
Install the tank and seat.
Now, do NOT forget to remove the turnbuckle!


You're done. You will see no benefit if the bike was already perfectly aligned...
But you might be surprised.
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Last edited by MrSurly; 03-05-2016 at 01:09 AM.
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  #32  
Old 03-05-2016, 08:07 AM
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Fork options, '01 RK

Ricky.

Thanks for taking the time for this very informative post

The frame rails as an arbitrary reference makes sense. While not a touring bike, my fatboy swing arm pivots were not a perfect reference for alignment.

When adjusted using center of axle to center of pivot the bike tracked horribly. It fell off to the right sharply. I took it back to the dealer and they worked on it for several hours but never got it quite right.

Around the 10k mark the belt started squealing as it rubbed against the outer edge of the rear pulley. As it rubbed rubber from the belt stuck to the edge of the pulley and when cold squealed.

I checked alignment and it was dead on. So I started adjusting until the belt tracked on the pulley.

That corrected the squeal and tracking on the road was much improved. I fine tuned alignment by road test and hands off until it was dead nuts.

Final difference between center to center of axle to swing arm was 3/32". So in short my frame was jacked up at the swing arm pivots.

Last edited by vafatboy; 03-05-2016 at 08:52 AM.
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  #33  
Old 03-05-2016, 08:12 AM
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Thanks for re-posting that Ricky. This would be a great thing to do for a tech day. Spend a Saturday or Sunday aligning everyone's bike. We should really all get together and do this.
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Old 03-05-2016, 08:27 AM
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If only, Russ. I'd get in line fo sho! This is most comprehensive and have learned something new yet again. I feel blessed to have had the scoot I have. It hasn't given me any troubles of the like yet.





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  #35  
Old 03-05-2016, 01:46 PM
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Warren, the process works the same re:the rear wheel's position and you only need to determine the lateral center of the bike. I'm not familiar with the Softail chassis so the reference for this might be different but the physics don't care.

Russ, you're welcome.
It's not actually a repost, though. I've not sat down and written it all down before.
Im sure I've left some importanty-bit out.




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