Replacing twin cam lifters

flhpi-ohio (Tom) replaced his lifters. I took pictures and helped, but mostly took pictures.

Tom picked up a 95", 2002 police Road King last year. It's his second police RK. Like many of the big bore builds, he has a lot of top end noise, even though the bike already had the Baisley Spring.

Some recommend changing lifters out at around 30K miles, and having about that many miles, he decided to do the job. Tom rides year round, rides lots of miles and keeps his motorcycles in top condition.

He had already started when I arrived..so I just rolled right on in.



While he was at it, he checked his cam chain tensioners for wear. They were pretty worn so he replaced them.



Fortunately, and thanks to BigMike,..I still had a high tech schematic for the torque pattern of the cam chest cover.



Tom decided not to remove the tank, rocker boxes and rocker supports..but to go with adjustable pushrods. He cut the old pushrods out with a bolt cutter.



I happened to notice that his garage was stocked with all the proper tools.



Anyway, it's important to take the plugs out, put the transmission in 5th gear, and get the back wheel off the ground with a jack. When it's time to adjust the pushrods, the back wheel can be turned to turn the engine over and properly position the lifters.




As previously stated, Tom had already removed the pushrod covers, cut out the push rods, removed the lifter blocks and lifters before I arrived.

The old lifters didn't appear to be too bad and there wasn't any wear marks on the cam lobes. However, it's possible that the lifter plungers had become weak..which would be impossible to determine with the naked eye..ha! I said naked! Perhaps nekkid, if spoken aloud.



The new, stock lifters are presoaked in 20W50, and oil was squirted in the lifter weep holes with an oil can. This fills the lifters..probably keeps them from getting wrinkly too. I rubbed some of the oil on my face.



The new lifters are dropped into place.



Once the lifters are placed, we're ready for the lifter blocks..but first the retainer clip is put in place to keep the lifters from turning.

We debated the correct way to position the weep holes in the lifters, but concluded that it probably didn't matter. Tom faced them away from the engine, which is the way that they came out.



The lifter blocks are numbered, 1 and 2, respectfully. 1 going toward the front cylinder and 2 toward the rear.




The lifter blocks were then installed.




Tom had purchased the SE pushrods from our local dealer. The kit comes with new seals and covers. The covers are different from the stock ones. One of them was a little rusty...they must not sell many.




The pushrods were then put in the covers. The exhaust pushrods have bigger ends than the intakes.



After installing the seals in the bottom of the rocker box, Tom used a mirror to check placement...apparently, his head is too big to twist and look up in there. Mine certainly was..it's also possible that he may have dental experience.




The back wheel is turned, in order to turn the engine over and position both lifters to their lowest position for proper adjustment.



We had instructions. They generated some debate.



Once the pushrods were in for the front cylinder, and the lifters at their lowest postition..they were adjusted by hand to a slightly firm fit. Then, the adjusters were tightened 2 1/2 turns and the lock nut tightened. The pushrods could still be turned with Tom's fingers. He has very nice looking fingers, don't you think? Probably could have been a hand model.



After the front cylinder pushrods were adjusted, we took a break. The instructions say to wait 10-15 for the lifters to bleed down before adjusting. Of course they already had, but it seemed like a good time before finishing the rear cylinder.



Repeating the procedure done to the front, the rear pushrods were adjusted. Finally the covers were installed and the job was done.

The exhaust and right floorboard still needed to be put back on, but it started raining outside, and I didn't want to be there in case we'd screwed up and a valve might be bent on startup, plus I needed a nap..so I rode back home. He offered me his truck, but I'm no wuss..I rode off in the rain. He offered the truck to a neighbor lady that walked by on the sidewalk too,..she appeared frightened.

Later that evening, Tom rode by the house. He had a big iron on his hip...we're an open carry state. He says that the engine appears to be somewhat quieter. I'm sure he'll chime in here and give us more info.

[BigBurger]

That was informative narration. Perhaps you're free to narrate my colonoscopy
next month.

OK..

[Highmiles]

Originally Posted by GrayRider

OK..

Will you take pictures of it also?

OK..

[route66paul]

Please



































don't

I probably could be bribed not to.

I may change mine out soon, too.

[flhpi-ohio]

After I had the bike back together and took it for a test ride it did seem to have less valve train noise. I can over analize things sometimes and I kept thinking that my bike didnt have the same power that it did before. I thought that another shake down ride was in order so I rode about 150 miles today on roads that are familar to me and I know how the bike pulls up certain hills and powers out of corners. Sure enough, it didn't have the normal get up and go. The bike starts great, idles great but just lacks punch. When I arrived back to the house I removed the pushrods and opened up the cam chest. I took out the front cam chain and started over again. I made sure everything was per the manual and double checked everything. Once again, I took it back out on a test ride and it runs like it should. My best guess is some dumbass (me) had the sprocket and chain off by one tooth. I still have a knock or some kind of noise at 2500rpm but it is reduced and the clatter has also been reduced. Special thanks to gray for the assistance and info. I used the clothes pin trick to hold up the pushrod covers while I adusted them. He is a wealth of knowledge and humor.

Shoulda called..I woulda brought my camera. Glad you figured it out.

[Fe Butte]

Two and a half turns total???


I have heard all kinds of adjustment turns figures, guess it depends on who's push rods you use...

Some say to use the oil support alignment pins to set the block covers on in a "centered" posistion...

Originally Posted by Fe Butte

Two and a half turns total???

That's what the instructions said.

He bought the only ones the dealer had in stock, I think.

I might take you up on the pushrods, Mike. I'm thinking about replacing my lifters too.

Originally Posted by BigMike

Just let me know. I'm going to buy some tapered pushrods. Either Andrews or HQ.

Hey, I've got an idea...bring 'em to Deals Gap and I'll hold the Knob Creek while you put 'em in my bike.

[Fe Butte]

Originally Posted by GrayRider

That's what the instructions said.

Thanks now I don't have to buy a set to get the instructions for SE adj rods.