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Suspension Shocks, Forks, Front Ends, Stabilizers, etc...

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Old 04-03-2016, 03:26 PM
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Fork oil change without removal technics

Might anyone here have suggestions on changing fork oil on the E-Glide without having to remove the forks
The way Cris and I understand the spring will pop out under pressure, and we're tied up figuring how to reassemble the spring with the fork in place. Are they under much pressure?

Thanks any and all








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Old 04-03-2016, 04:22 PM
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Easy. the caps at the top of the forks can be removed while the forks are still on the bike. Remove the ignition and switch cap, then take those fork caps off. The springs won't go anywhere, as they're not held in by those caps. At the bottom of each fork tube is a #3 phillips screw. That's the drain plug. Unscrew them, then grab a handful of front brake and compress the forks to get all the fluid out. Then put them back in, refill the forks with whatever flavor of fluid you like, compress the suspension a dozen times or so to burp all the air out of the damper rods, then replace the caps and reassemble your ignition.
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Old 04-03-2016, 04:27 PM
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If you have an '06 there are emulators up top. Also I seem to recall the chrome drain screw kit comes with new seals and cheaper than buying the seals alone
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Old 04-03-2016, 04:33 PM
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Sue-weetness! I had bet you and/or Ricky would have the process streamlined. Thank you kind sir








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Old 04-03-2016, 05:05 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fe Butte View Post
If you have an '06 there are emulators up top. Also I seem to recall the chrome drain screw kit comes with new seals and cheaper than buying the seals alone
And it looks to me I might could/should replace the the quad ring seal inside under the top cap as well since I'll be there.
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Old 04-03-2016, 05:55 PM
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Wouldn't hurt to cycle some mineral spirits through to clean everything out, depending on how old the fluid is. I got in the habit of changing the fluid every 10,000 miles on the BSL, and did a full rebuild at 30,000 miles. With fresh fluid ever 10k, you could probably save the rebuild until 50k.
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Old 04-03-2016, 06:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bone Stockman View Post
Wouldn't hurt to cycle some mineral spirits through to clean everything out, depending on how old the fluid is. I got in the habit of changing the fluid every 10,000 miles on the BSL, and did a full rebuild at 30,000 miles. With fresh fluid ever 10k, you could probably save the rebuild until 50k.
I believe I'll clean it a bit and try new fluid first. Nothing leaks and it still feels reasonably good albeit soft now. A full rebuild is in order





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Old 04-03-2016, 06:37 PM
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Keep the window open. The old fluid stinks to high heaven, and I still don't know why. It doesn't stink when new, must rot in there....

I never can recall the pertinent model years, but if yours has air forks you don't have to get to the caps at all


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Old 04-03-2016, 08:13 PM
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Yes, the stock fluid stinks. There's a lot of heat generated inside the forks, and it cooks the oil but good.

Which is why I advocate changing the oil every 10,000 miles (especially the way I ride) and replacing all the bushings and stuff every 30,000 miles.
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