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  #16  
Old 08-10-2011, 11:21 AM
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Getting Your VEs Optimized

So by this time, you've probably done 4 or 5 runs and hopefully filled in just about every cell you have. Make this last run you're going to use a good one that hits as many cells as possible. It's time to take your data and finalize your VE tables.

Print out your V-Tune screens showing your front and rear cylinder VEs (or don't, you can do it all on the laptop, it just seems easier to me to have a hard copy). You definitely want to print out the results of your 800 rpm run, as you want to manually enter those numbers onto the larger tune where you've addressed more areas.

Open MasterTune with the results of this last V-Tune (the big one I just mentioned). Open V-Tune (or use your printouts) to view the recommendations from the last run, and to see which cells are the happy white ones, and which cells are yellow or empty.

Start with the front cylinder in the upper left corner (low rpm, low kPa). If you've gotten good numbers from your 800rpm data run, manually enter those numbers into your tune. Look at the V-Tune results from your last run. With any luck, where your happy white cells from the 800rpm run trail off, they'll pick up from the run you're using to generate the tune. If they don't, you want to manually blend those yellow or empty cells so that there's a smooth transition from cell to cell.

For example, let's say you've got stellar data at 1250rpm from your 800rpm run up to 30kPa, but your data from the last generated run really doesn't get good until 50kPa. No worries. Hypothetically speaking you've got a VE value of 70 at 30kPa and 78 at 50kPa (and these are from happy white cells). Manually blend the intermediate VE cells so that you have a gradual transition from 70 to 78. Once again, you don't need to do this if the V-Tune is showing that the cells are all white.

Use this same principle as you move throughout the VE table. Ideally you should have fantastic data from 20kPa through 80kPa all the way from 2000rpm up through 6000rpm, but if you have a cell in the middle of somewhere that you didn't get, blend it so that it transitions to the next happy cell smoothly. Above 80kPa, you can carry the 80kPa value out (or the V-Tune will do it for you if you ask it to when you accept the tune) to 100kPa. When in doubt, blend up. The higher the VE, the more fuel you're adding.

Use the same principle on the vertical axis for the high-rpm, low kPa areas you might not have gotten. Take your last good value in the column, look at the trend (is it increasing or decreasing?), and blend downward.

Because of the nature of speed-density fuel injection, the ECM not only looks at the rpm and MAP that the motor is currently at, it also looks around that cell, so you want transitions to be smooth.

Once you've got the front cylinder done, repeat the process for the rear.

At this point, save the map as a tuning file again ("081011tuningx), load it, and do another DataMaster run. V-Tune it as you've done but don't let it auto-extend. With any luck you've become a pro at hitting every cell you can possibly hit, and you've got a V-Tune chart that has nothing but a bunch of happy white cells with numbers in them. If you still have a few pink cells, open MasterTune with the tuning map you just made the data run with and see what's changing, how much it's changing, and if the changes make sense given the VE trends on the rest of the chart. If they do, manually make these changes.

If you're satisfied that you've got the VEs sorted, go back and restore the Main Lambda Table, the Accel Enrichment, the Decel Enleanment, and the PE Mode to original (there's a button for this). Save the map as "081011finaltune" and load it into the bike.

Congratulations, your air and fuel are set!
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Old 08-10-2011, 11:40 AM
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I just turn on the key and hit the start button and it runs. I follow Russ and if he doesn't scrape, I know I won't either.



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My bike still pops on decel and detonates in the city, I want a refund

My bike pops a lot on decel and I like it. I never have detonation. Sometimes my shifter or mufflers fall off.
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Old 08-10-2011, 12:19 PM
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Random Thoughts Before We Address Timing

Your bike should be running pretty well now. A little smoother, a little cooler, and a little more power. But what about....

That Pesky Main Lambda Table

Here's where I'm taking both a leap of faith and cheating. I told you to hit the "Return To Original" button when you finalized your VE tables. I did that because I'm assuming that Steve Cole has it set up to have the bike run at a relatively constant Lambda (AFR), and that with the VE tables properly calibrated, there's no need to screw with it.

That said, my MLT is a hybrid of what the TTS had and what Smart Dave did on my tune. Basically, all the closed-loop stuff is Dave, and all the open-loop stuff is Steve. Bike runs good so I'm not complaining. If/when I get back up to Dave's and put the bike on the dyno, we'll see whether or not this was a good idea.

The VSS Calculator

Or, how to get your speedometer reading right. Got a bar-mounted GPS that shows real-time speed? Good. On a level road, set your cruise control for 60mph and then see what the GPS says. Then use this formula:

New VSS Freq = (Original VSS Freq x Speedometer Reading)/Indicated GPS Speed

On my 3800~ish mile jaunt to ES, the odometer and the GPS mileage were off by 2 miles. I can live with that.

Throttle Blade Control

As has been beat to death, the TBW bikes have a progressivity built into the throttle. In other words, if you go WOT at 30 kPa at 2000 rpm, the ECM only opens the throttle blade a certain percentage. In my opinion, you need some progressivity, but at higher MAP and rpm, you don't want it. Smart Dave set mine, I think it's perfect. Experiment with it and see what you think, but you'll probably want to leave some in at lower speeds.

Decel Pop

Check your exhaust for leaks. I chased a pop for a week only to find out that the Torca clamp on my crossover was loose.

If that doesn't work, use the Decel Enleanment table and increase the value where the pop is happening.
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  #19  
Old 08-10-2011, 12:33 PM
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Quote:
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My head hurts.
mine is spinning.

I know somewhere in that reading I learned something, just not sure what. May take a couple of times.
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  #20  
Old 08-10-2011, 02:55 PM
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I just farted so I had brain space
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Old 08-10-2011, 03:07 PM
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I'm just going to ask Russ to make me a list of the shit I need and then hand it to him. Buy him some booze (to be drunk after he is done...I'm no dummy) and tell him knock himself out.
Quite frankly. I'm just not interested in learning all this stuff. I must be getting old.
I like the way my bike starts when I hit the button and then goes when I twist the throttle.
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Old 08-10-2011, 03:10 PM
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Bring your tts to Maggie Valley and give it to him with your bike and have a drink with me

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  #23  
Old 08-10-2011, 03:10 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dippsy View Post
Bring your tts to Maggie Valley and give it to him with your bike and have a drink with me

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
Splendid idea...I don't have a TTs though
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Old 08-10-2011, 03:12 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by J.A.F.O. View Post
Splendid idea...I don't have a TTs though


Maybe I'll just steal his...



Think he'll notice if I switch my fuelpac with his TTS?
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Old 08-10-2011, 03:27 PM
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Put some oil under his bike, he distracts easy

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk
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Old 08-10-2011, 04:09 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dippsy View Post
Put some oil under his bike, he distracts easy

Sent from my ADR6300 using Tapatalk


Or I could screw around with his clutch cable.
That'll make his head blow up.
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Old 08-10-2011, 05:08 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dzlfitr View Post
My head hurts.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic View Post
mine is spinning.
Like Pepi posted, I just don't have the desire to learn all that stuff right now. That's why I took mine to Smart Dave.. Don't have to worry about my head exploding trying to read all that.
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Old 08-10-2011, 06:34 PM
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What Have We Done?!?!

What we've done is replaced the factory Lambda table with one that both maintains the important part of closed-loop running (the cruise range), but has a richer area around it. We've replaced the factory spark tables with ones that (theoretically) are more suited to spirited riding and efficiency, and we've balanced the VE tables so that the correct ratio of air and fuel is being used to achieve the target Lambda(s).

More importantly, we've done the VE work while all the fuel-adding safeguards were disabled. The idea being that we get the VE tables to work without the Accel Enrichment, so when that's turned back on, the increased fuel prevents detonation or a lean condition in hotter weather, or due to bad gas (or something).

You may have noticed the bike detonating while you were doing your V-Tune runs. In a perfect world, it would have stopped doing that by the last run, and it definitely shouldn't do it now that you've got the final map loaded with all the safeguards back in place. But the world usually isn't perfect.

Your bike should be running stronger, cooler, and smoother, but there's still work to do.

Adaptive Fuel Values

You can't see them, but they're there. You may notice as you ride your bike that the mileage gets better after a few tanks of gas, or that it runs a little differently. Like the Terminator, the Delphi ECM is a learning computer, and uses the feedback from the sensors to tailor the VEs to current conditions. Unlike the Terminator, your ECM will probably not try to destroy humanity.

This is why you have the ability to go from sea level to the top of a mountain without the bike totally falling on its face, and why you can switch slip ons without re-mapping. But.....

I will once again crap on conventional wisdom. Over the course of your 5,000 mile service intervals, your air filter flows less air. Your plugs wear. Barometric pressure changes, as does the temperature and the altitude (if you're on a ride somewhere). The computer is able to take these things into account to a certain extent and compensate for them. That said, you're better off starting the tuning process with a clean filter and on a warm day, that way as the filter's flow is reduced, the engine tends to run richer rather than leaner. Same deal with the temperature. Your bike will run like a scaled ape when it's 20 degrees outside thanks to that cold, dense air. But base your tune on that, you're going to have a detonating, lean nightmare when it's 90 out.

Leading me to this.....I've done V-Tune runs immediately before and after cleaning the air filter. The VEs changed. I've V-Tuned three different sets of slip ons. The VEs changed. A lot. Yes, your bike will compensate for it (for the most part), but when you have the tools to quickly and simply make the corrections, why wouldn't you?

This is also the reason that canned maps are crap. Canned maps, like the base calibrations in the TTS are based on "air cleaner, slip ons". Now there's not much difference between air cleaners (on a Stage 1 bike), but there's a ton of difference in slip ons. Not to mention the fact that every bike is different and is going to respond to fuel and timing differently. A canned map is better than the factory calibration, but unless you tailor it to your bike and your combination of parts, you're leaving power, smoothness, and efficiency on the table.

The AFVs are erased every time you re-flash the ECM. Keep that in mind.

Timing

This is yet another area where a quality tuner like Smart Dave or Doc earns his money. Too much timing and you get detonation, not enough and you don't have a complete, efficient burn (which results in a loss of power and economy). In broad, general terms, you want to hold timing just to the point that the knock sensor starts pulling it.

You do not want to throw fuel at the problem to mask it. That's sort of like setting your sofa on fire to heat your house. It might work, but it invites a host of other problems.

To see what's going on with your timing, you start DataMaster and select "Record Data" from the file menu. Start the bike up just like with a V-Tune run, name your file ("081011timing"), and go for a ride. Remember though, you're using your final map, you don't create a special one for this.

One thing to keep in mind though, you no longer have the V-Tune Histogram you can pull over and look at to see what areas you've hit. You've got to use the riding skills you've developed while V-Tuning to get through them all. You also get to twist the throttle a bit more, because you want and need to get up to the top of the rev band at high kPa. Keep in mind though that 6000rpm at 80kPa is 6000rpm at 80kPa, regardless of what gear you're in. Don't get killed or arrested doing this.

Find an empty stretch of road and let 'er rip. You don't want to make this a long run, as you have to go through and watch the playback when you're done.

As before, stop the recording and save the file before you turn the bike off.
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Old 08-10-2011, 07:08 PM
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Altering the Timing

Ahhhh, the joys of Speed/Density fuel injection. The spark tables, the VE tables, the Lambda tables....all the tables exist so that the ECM can take in the information from the various sensors, then look up what it should do based on the tables. You need to keep in mind that as well as the system works, it's a rudimentary way to run a motor. Life would be so much easier with a good Mass Air or Direct Injection system......

But we've got what we've got, and it's important to understand how the ECM looks stuff up. You don't ride directly from 2500rpm to 2750rpm, and from 60kPa to 70kPa. The cells only exist to make life easy for us. In reality, your bike is moving through the rev band and through load without regard to the cells. This is why it's important to have smooth transitions when you do your blends to the VE tables, and it's also crucial when you're doing timing.

Remember also that there's a lag between when the knock event occurs and the sensors report it. So when you see that the Adaptive Knock Retard (AKR) is pulling 2 degrees out of the front cylinder at 3832rpm and 67kPa, the event started sooner.

Also, the AKR is responding to an event that it's not really sure about. Anecdotally, I've never seen less than 2 degrees pulled, but that doesn't mean that the timing is advanced 2 degrees too far. Maybe it's 1 degree. Maybe it's 1/2 a degree.

So at any rate, pants off, cold drink, and load your final map into MasterTune, and select the Front Spark Table. Start DataMaster back up, load the file you recorded, get yourself a notepad, set the playback speed slow enough so that you can hit stop when you see spark being retarded, and hit "Start".

So when you see the AKR pull timing, stop the recording. Click on the little "back" arrow to get to the record just prior to the retard. Then click forward, record by record to see what the AKR does. Generally speaking, it detects the detonation, yanks however much timing it determines needs to be yanked, then the retard decays away over the course of the next 5 or 10 records.

In the above example, you'd want to look at where the engine was coming from and what it was doing at the time. Let's say you were accelerating smoothly from 2500rpm at part throttle. So you'd start looking at 3750rpm and 65 kPa. With only 2 degrees of retard, I'd start be reducing the timing by 1/2 a degree at the above point. But I'd also pull the same at 3750 and 70kPa, as well as 4000 at both 65 & 70kPa. Why? Because it's a safe bet that the ECM is looking at all those values through there, especially if you're accelerating through them.

By the same token, I'm chasing a mother of an explosion between 2500 and 2750 between 60-80 kPa. In other words, smack at highway speeds in 6th gear when you twist the throttle to either pass or maintain speed on a hill. Since this is more of a steady-state event, I can quarantine the reduction in timing to one or two cells.

At any rate, go through the recording, stopping at every knock event. Log where each one is by cylinder, and record the changes that you make. Remember you can always open up another MasterTune window and compare your edits to the original, or use the drop down menu under "Table Comparison" to do the same.

But like I said, just because 6 degrees of timing is being pulled doesn't mean you have to pull 6 degrees. Start with 3 and see what happens next time. And don't forget to look at the cells surrounding the event too.

Once you're done editing the map, save it with a new filename ("081011final-001"), and reload it into the bike. Repeat this process as many times as it takes to make a clean run without the AKR kicking in.
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  #30  
Old 08-10-2011, 07:18 PM
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While I likely will never need this tutorial as I don't have a 02 equipped bike, I can appreciate the difficulty it takes to convey the how to.

Folks look at this and think it's hard, yet if you do one thing at a time while following directions, it's not so bad.
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