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  #16  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:27 PM
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Originally Posted by higlet View Post
blah blah blah maintenance blah blah blah

you don't know, you're not a doctor


I do know that it made mine last a looooong time.
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  #17  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:30 PM
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maybe it would have lasted that long anyway and you wasted your time

yeah

you wasted your time, those are minutes you can never get back

who feels silly now?
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  #18  
Old 02-22-2009, 08:33 PM
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Originally Posted by higlet View Post
maybe it would have lasted that long anyway and you wasted your time

yeah

you wasted your time, those are minutes you can never get back

who feels silly now?
By the sounds of what happened to yours that wouldn't be true.
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  #19  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:16 PM
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Oiling or greasing the ends of stock one prevents failure.
I hated the stock one anyway. Now I have a much nicer billet aluminum one and it's shinny just like Patti likes...
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  #20  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:35 PM
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Originally Posted by Berserker View Post
Looks good. But the hysteria was that the rod itself would break.



Just kidding, I can't remember, which it was.
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Originally Posted by Sonic View Post
Learn something new every day! Thanks, for the info. Do they have the same problems with the after market linkage?
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Originally Posted by TerryMiller View Post
I've heard of a lot of people having trouble with the ball separating from the socket. Usually it can be duct taped or baling wired back together to get you home. This will prevent ya from getting stranded in the first place.

Yep, that's the issue. Have seen it happen to a few guys. Once the end pops off the ball it's virtually impossible to re-attatch. It can be wired back together sufficiently to get you somewhere to get a proper repair done but I wouldn't want to try any distance run with it that way.
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  #21  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:49 PM
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Nice job!
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  #22  
Old 02-22-2009, 09:52 PM
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There was a hysteria about this at VTF, that one point a guy told me, why risk your life. No lie.

Its on my list of somedays, and will probably break next ride out.

Oiling it sounds like a good idea,it is a moving part, that gets lots of movement.
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  #23  
Old 02-23-2009, 11:16 AM
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Graingers sells the steel ones for about 5$ if ya want to fix it quick and cheap.
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  #24  
Old 02-23-2009, 11:20 AM
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Originally Posted by SLOWHOUND View Post
Graingers sells the steel ones for about 5$ if ya want to fix it quick and cheap.
Heim joints ?
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  #25  
Old 02-23-2009, 01:43 PM
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[QUOTE=orbit;661212]After reading threads at HDF regarding failures of the stock shifter linkage ends, I decided to do an upgrade.

Besides, I'm tired of sitting in the house and I'm looking for stuff to do.

I replaced the stock linkage ends with heim joints from McMaster-Carr (p/n 59915K483), and I picked up two chromed 5/16-24 x 1" button screws, and one chrome 5/16 x 1/8" spacer from the local hardware store.

I reused the original lock washer and nut from the front lever attachment point. On assembly, I put a few drops of blue Loctite on both screws.

I left the original jam nuts on the shifter rod and installed the new heim joints on as far as they'd go. Doing this lengthened the total shifter rod length by less than 1/4", basically it raised the heel part of the shifter up a bit and dropped the toe end down.

I don't have a good set of dies here; I plan on adding more thread to both ends of the rod at a later date. This will give me a bit more adjustment, if necessary.

I used the 1/8" spacer between the heim joint and trans lever on the rear button screw as it moves the shifter rod out just a bit and lessens the angle of the rod. Also, the threaded end of the new button screw, when tight, is flush with the inside edge of the trans lever, just like stock.

Swap took all of a half hour. I spent $35.81 on everything ($28.99 for the heim joints, shipped, $6.82 for the hardware); it would have been somewhat less if I hadn't got the chrome stuff.

Here's a pic of my stock linkage with the pretty new hardware, installed.

Where does the 1/8" spacer go?
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  #26  
Old 02-23-2009, 03:09 PM
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Where does the 1/8" spacer go?
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  #27  
Old 02-23-2009, 03:24 PM
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Besides giving you piece of mind, I really like the way the application looks. Thanks again for the excellent pictures and information.
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  #28  
Old 02-23-2009, 04:56 PM
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check this out...

hardware kit is 5.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4920&viewitem=
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  #29  
Old 02-23-2009, 06:15 PM
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Originally Posted by Xkvator View Post
check this out...

hardware kit is 5.00

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...4920&viewitem=
Good find. Where is the hardware kit listed?
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  #30  
Old 02-23-2009, 07:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Highmiles View Post
Good find. Where is the hardware kit listed?
Linkage kit.

The eBay set up appears to be a good deal.

Here's the specs for those high quality rod ends I got. They appear to be quite overkill for my app................................

Part Number: 59915K483
$11.34 Each
Rod End Type-Ball Joint Rod Ends

Ball Joint Rod End Type-High Strength Ball Joint Rod Ends

Shank Type-Female Shank

Shank Thread Type-Right Hand Thread

Ball Joint Lubrication-No Lubrication Required

Housing Material-Stainless Steel

Housing Material Information-Type 303

Ball Material-Stainless Steel

Ball Material Information-Type 440C

Liner Material-PTFE

Shank Thread Size-5/16"-24

Thread Length (A)-11/16"

Inside Diameter (B)-5/16"

Outside Diameter (C)-7/8"

Housing Thickness (D)-5/16"

Base to Center Length (E)-1-3/8"

Overall Thickness (F)-7/16"

Maximum Ball Swivel (6° to 22°)-17°

Static Radial Load Capacity-2,100 lbs.

Specifications Met-Not Rated


I appreciate the research xkvator did and his finding a viable alternative to my mod.

When it's all said and done, the eBay stuff is comparable in price to what I did. You do gain, however, a bright new shiny chromed shifter rod.
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