Brake light switch

[Bone Stockman]

So I replaced my levers today, followed Frank's advice about not draining the master cylinder, and it was a piece of cake. Until I tested to make sure the brake lights worked.

Yes, I used a piece of cardboard to hold the lever back when I removed the old lever and installed the new one. The switch still works if I toggle it manually or with a screwdriver. But when the brake lever is disengaged, it's not pushing on the switch enough. I've taken everything apart and put it back together 4 or 5 times. No go. I put the stock lever back on. No go.

What did I miss?

[vafatboy]

Not sure if the new ones have it, but there is a little copper wedge behind the switch to give pressure towards the lever. If it's missing the switch moves. Check the lever and be sure it's positioned properly on the switch, the cam on the lever can push the switch out of place when installing if your not careful.

[Bone Stockman]

Huh....Didn't see one of them. The switch itself is covered with a rubber sheathing.

I bet I broke the damn tip off of the thing, which pisses me off 'cause I did the cardboard thing.....

I took pics of the housing just in case I missed something glaring...

[vafatboy]

Originally Posted by '05Train

Huh....Didn't see one of them. The switch itself is covered with a rubber sheathing.

I bet I broke the damn tip off of the thing, which pisses me off 'cause I did the cardboard thing.....

I took pics of the housing just in case I missed something glaring...

I did the cardboard thing the first time too and busted it. Done it a few times since and don't use the cardboard anymore, I just use a lot of caution with good lighting to position the lever back into place.

That wedge is about 5/16 square in size and when in place is between the switch and housing.

[Bone Stockman]

Sh*t.

Not what I wanted to hear, but thanks Warren. I'm going to go futz around with it a little more to see if I can rig it to work 'till next week when I've got the appointment to get the ABS bled.

[vafatboy]

Originally Posted by '05Train

Sh*t.

Not what I wanted to hear, but thanks Warren. I'm going to go futz around with it a little more to see if I can rig it to work 'till next week when I've got the appointment to get the ABS bled.

Hope you get it figured out, there's a reason the dealer keeps the switches in stock.

[Geezer-Glide]

Check the inside of the housing. Look for the little bent brass piece of metal. Make sure it's pushing the switch all the way out.

[vafatboy]

Originally Posted by Geezer-Glide

Check the inside of the housing. Look for the little bent brass piece of metal. Make sure it's pushing the switch all the way out.

Skimmer

I said copper though......

[Geezer-Glide]

Brass...........

[Bone Stockman]

Just looked, no joy.......

What pisses me off about this is that I know that those switches are delicate, and I was super careful about using the cardboard wedge, and I still broke the damn thing.....

How difficult is it to replace them?

[Geezer-Glide]

Not hard. You will have to take the housing apart though.....
If memory serves me, you'll have to snake the wires thru the bars.....
Not sure of the differences between '03 and '10.

[vafatboy]

Originally Posted by Geezer-Glide

Not hard. You will have to take the housing apart though.....
If memory serves me, you'll have to snake the wires thru the bars.....
Not sure of the differences between '03 and '10.

The one I bought didn't have wires long enough. I had to splice, solder and shrink wrap.

[Bone Stockman]

Great.....

[squish]

dealer....warranty work.....just sayin'

[Bone Stockman]

Problem with that is that I've got non-stock bars and levers on it. I could always throw the stock levers back on, but the bars.......That's not gonna happen.