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General Maintenance & Service Doing it yourself or having it done...

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  #1  
Old 02-23-2007, 11:38 AM
8-Ball
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25k Service - Fork Spring Replacement - Fall Away Test.... What do I need?

I'm getting ready to do my 25k mile service and may need some help.

I'm planning the following on top of the general maintenance stuff:

Changing the back tire (I'll send it to a shop to be mounted).

Changing the front brake pads.

Replacing the front fork springs with Progressive 11-1131 and new fork oil.

Fall away check.


First off, I need to know if I need any special tools. I do plan on buying a fork tube holder, but not sure which one to get or if my only choice is the HD one.

The FixMyHog DVD suggests the use of a palm socket wrench for the fork tube nuts, any recommendations?

I have the service manual and I did my 20k service without a hitch thanks to the help of the folks over at VTF and LittleBear. I'm hoping it works as well over here.

Thanks in advance for your help.
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  #2  
Old 02-23-2007, 12:10 PM
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  #3  
Old 02-23-2007, 06:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8-Ball View Post
I'm getting ready to do my 25k mile service and may need some help.

I'm planning the following on top of the general maintenance stuff:

Changing the back tire (I'll send it to a shop to be mounted).

Changing the front brake pads.

Replacing the front fork springs with Progressive 11-1131 and new fork oil.

Fall away check.


First off, I need to know if I need any special tools. I do plan on buying a fork tube holder, but not sure which one to get or if my only choice is the HD one.

The FixMyHog DVD suggests the use of a palm socket wrench for the fork tube nuts, any recommendations?

I have the service manual and I did my 20k service without a hitch thanks to the help of the folks over at VTF and LittleBear. I'm hoping it works as well over here.

Thanks in advance for your help.

25k! You must be a year-round rider.



Oh yeah...you are.
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  #4  
Old 02-23-2007, 06:41 PM
Q-Dog Q-Dog is offline
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  #5  
Old 02-23-2007, 07:01 PM
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Here is a tip for you 8-Ball.
After you have all the stuff removed and are ready to do the fork springs, this is how I get my fork caps off.
1. I remove the top bolt from the shock tube. I just use a large crescent wrench so I do not have to remove my handlebars.
2. I loosen the bottom triple tree clamp and slide the fork tube down so the fork cap is exposed. I tighten back the bottom triple tree clamp to hold the fork in place.
3. I then use the same big crescent wrench to loosen the fork cap a few turns.
4. I Loosen the bottom triple tree clamp and slide the fork out.
I put it back together the same way. Since I am using a crescent wrench, torque specs for the fork cap and the fill bolt have no meaning to me on this job.
To get fork oil even, use a dip stick made from a piece of wire. Slide it in the top of the fork to the same distance on both side and measure the level. You can do this before you drain the oil to get current level so you get same amount back in.
If you get too much in one, you can always suck it out with a syringe and a long piece of clear plastic tubing.
You need a good way to measure the fork oil to the 1/2 oz.
If I think of any other stuff, I will throw it in this tread.
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  #6  
Old 02-23-2007, 07:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8-Ball View Post
I'm getting ready to do my 25k mile service and may need some help.

I'm planning the following on top of the general maintenance stuff:

Changing the back tire (I'll send it to a shop to be mounted).

Changing the front brake pads.

Replacing the front fork springs with Progressive 11-1131 and new fork oil.

Fall away check.


First off, I need to know if I need any special tools. I do plan on buying a fork tube holder, but not sure which one to get or if my only choice is the HD one.

The FixMyHog DVD suggests the use of a palm socket wrench for the fork tube nuts, any recommendations?

I have the service manual and I did my 20k service without a hitch thanks to the help of the folks over at VTF and LittleBear. I'm hoping it works as well over here.

Thanks in advance for your help.
The only special tool I know of off the top of my head is the one for seating the new fork seals. I used PVC pipe and it worked out just fine.

Be careful when removing the fork tube nuts and be ready for the springs unloading. It's not much, but they will jump on ya.

I didn't use a tube holder, but I had help. Vise, wood blocks etc.
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  #7  
Old 02-23-2007, 07:19 PM
LittleBear LittleBear is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vafatboy View Post
The only special tool I know of off the top of my head is the one for seating the new fork seals. I used PVC pipe and it worked out just fine.

Be careful when removing the fork tube nuts and be ready for the springs unloading. It's not much, but they will jump on ya.

I didn't use a tube holder, but I had help. Vise, wood blocks etc.
I do not think he is replacing the fork seals. No need to replace them if they are not leaking.
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  #8  
Old 02-23-2007, 09:47 PM
8-Ball
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This is what I'm looking for. The fork seals aren't leaking... should I replace them while I have it apart?

I'll get the fork tube vise... looks like it just makes things easier and I am typically working on this thing alone... the girls have no interest whatsoever.

I don't know, Paul, I like to torque things... peace of mind thing, especially with everthing riding on what I do up there. The wire idea is great for measuring the fork oil... I understand what you are saying.

Any recommendations on fork oil? I've heard the SE is better, but it comes in different flavors.

Thanks for the tips.
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  #9  
Old 02-23-2007, 09:57 PM
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Mike,

I had a brain freeze, when I did mine I was changing the lowers out too. So I had to change the seals. If they aren't leaking I would leave them alone. I happened to have a measuring cup in 1/4 ounce increments and used that for the oil. I just followed the manual for capacity.
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  #10  
Old 02-24-2007, 12:42 AM
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harleyjsb doesn't need a tube sockharleyjsb doesn't need a tube sockharleyjsb doesn't need a tube sockharleyjsb doesn't need a tube sockharleyjsb doesn't need a tube sockharleyjsb doesn't need a tube sockharleyjsb doesn't need a tube sockharleyjsb doesn't need a tube sockharleyjsb doesn't need a tube sockharleyjsb doesn't need a tube sockharleyjsb doesn't need a tube sock
Just use one of your wife's measuring cups from the kitchen.No joke

but wash it out and don't tell her what you used it for.that what I did when I put my chrome lowers on.also used the screamin' eagle heavy fork oil 9 1/2 oz in each fork tube.I didn't torque the fork tube nuts just give them a good tug.you can tell when they are tight enough.
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  #11  
Old 03-03-2007, 03:48 PM
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What about pump for fork oil? I bough the fork oil two years ago, don't want to say how many miles past changing I am. Need a pump. Probabky get the mighty vac.

The front end varies by years.

I bought SE fork oil, but not the super stiff stuff, like one up frm stock.
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  #12  
Old 04-06-2007, 08:06 PM
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  #13  
Old 04-06-2007, 08:22 PM
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  #14  
Old 05-16-2007, 12:27 PM
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OKay, I pulled the trigger on the Progressive 11-1131 fork springs last night and have a couple of questions.

I was talking to Gray and he suggested that I don't have to remove the fork tubes to change the springs. He is recalling an older bike, but he said once the nacelle is removed, I should be able remove the top cap, slide the springs out and drain the fluid.

I'm looking for confirmation on a '05 Road King... would I have to remove the handlebars and if so, would it be easier to drop the tubes?

Also, fork oil... which fork oil? Stock or SE and which flavor?

Thanks.
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  #15  
Old 05-16-2007, 02:40 PM
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External Torx Sockets...Gotta have those don't forget them!

I hear they have them at Sears for $31.97.

Or maybe Apache36 has a pair he might give you a deal on or loan ya.

Course since you've done some brake work allready you must have your own.
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