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Old 04-10-2010, 07:43 PM
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replacing brake pads

Hey you all. I want to replace the front brake pads on me 07 softail standard.
socket sizes? proceedure.......then removal of pads from caliper. Any and all help appreciated.

Oh, any type of pad better and why, or worth it.
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:51 PM
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Here ya go..

http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/service_tech.htm

Pay Close Attention To how The Pads Came Out, They Do Not Have The Same Orientation.
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:52 PM
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Old 04-10-2010, 07:58 PM
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Thank you Warren and Isabel. I'll be gathering the few missing items and git busy. Torque wrench... might tune it by ear.
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Last edited by knuckleheader-; 04-10-2010 at 08:18 PM.
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Old 04-10-2010, 08:00 PM
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i can tell you that the bolts that hold the pads in place ARE NOT REVERSE TORX
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Old 04-10-2010, 08:19 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Apache36 View Post
i can tell you that the bolts that hold the pads in place ARE NOT REVERSE TORX
So,what does that mean? Do I need a special socket or tool?
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Old 04-10-2010, 08:20 PM
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10mm 12-point I believe. You can theoretically change the pads without pulling the calipers, but you really should clean them the way that the Lyndall site suggests. Use Lyndall Z+ pads and you won't be sorry.
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Old 04-10-2010, 08:22 PM
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Tools needed are in the link.
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Old 04-10-2010, 08:47 PM
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Get 1/4 inch 12 pt socket for the bolts. Nothing else works, trust me.
If you don't have the little tool to push the piston back in you'll probably have to use a small prybar to get it to move in enough to get the caliper off and then back on again.
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Old 04-10-2010, 09:07 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '05Train View Post
10mm 12-point I believe. You can theoretically change the pads without pulling the calipers, but you really should clean them the way that the Lyndall site suggests. Use Lyndall Z+ pads and you won't be sorry.
Thanks Russ

Quote:
Originally Posted by vafatboy View Post
Tools needed are in the link.
Apache's comment(below) had my attention. That link you posted will be the one I'll use.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KD5CQT View Post
Get 1/4 inch 12 pt socket for the bolts. Nothing else works, trust me.
If you don't have the little tool to push the piston back in you'll probably have to use a small prybar to get it to move in enough to get the caliper off and then back on again.
I'll have them too.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Apache36 View Post
i can tell you that the bolts that hold the pads in place ARE NOT REVERSE TORX


I'll enjoy a sunny day fer this task....
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Old 04-11-2010, 09:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by KD5CQT View Post
Get 1/4 inch 12 pt socket for the bolts. Nothing else works, trust me.
If you don't have the little tool to push the piston back in you'll probably have to use a small prybar to get it to move in enough to get the caliper off and then back on again.
1/4" 12 point socket, Not an "E" socket, for the pad retaining pins, putty knife(s) to slip between the pad(s) and rotor to retract the pistons, remember to take out brake fluid in the master cylinder to allow the fluid at the pistons to have some place to go. PUT! THE TOP BACK ON!!! before pushing the pistons in. Or fluid will get on your paint, chrome and other stuff.
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Old 04-11-2010, 11:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '05Train View Post
10mm 12-point I believe. You can theoretically change the pads without pulling the calipers, but you really should clean them the way that the Lyndall site suggests. Use Lyndall Z+ pads and you won't be sorry.
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Old 04-11-2010, 05:10 PM
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what everybody else said, 1/4 12pt socket, putty knife, brake cleaner.....call me if you have problems
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Old 04-11-2010, 09:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fe Butte View Post
1/4" 12 point socket, Not an "E" socket, for the pad retaining pins, putty knife(s) to slip between the pad(s) and rotor to retract the pistons, remember to take out brake fluid in the master cylinder to allow the fluid at the pistons to have some place to go. PUT! THE TOP BACK ON!!! before pushing the pistons in. Or fluid will get on your paint, chrome and other stuff.
Thank you. I'll put your points on my note pad.

Quote:
Originally Posted by y2kflhr View Post
what everybody else said, 1/4 12pt socket, putty knife, brake cleaner.....call me if you have problems
Yes Sir. I'll be doing this probably next week.
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Old 04-12-2010, 04:50 AM
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I would use the EBC HH sintered pads, they stop a hell of a lot better than the Lyndall kevlar. The kevlar fade under extreme use like mountains or heavy bikes and kind of suck in the rain. The EBC are awesome no matter what you throw at them, they stop my bagger on a dime, only issue is if you got fancy chrome rotors thay will make them un chrome, they are tough on rotors but who cares, both brakes and rotors are sacraficial and designed to stop you and not look good, so, if ya want to stop... EBC HH Sintered on front and rear. Your eyes will pop out the first time you nail them.
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