Steering head bearings and adjusting fall away.

[Geezer-Glide]

Holy shit! What a pain in the ass!!! I think I'll take it to Dave the next time I need to do this job. At least it's done though.

[MegaGlide]

Those, vehicle alignment and fuel filter changes.

[Backroad Mike]

Yes, it is a PITA, however, I'd rather adjust the fall away than changing a belt.

[gasbag]

Ok, time for a stupid question. Can anyone explain what adjusting for "fallaway" means?

First, I think I know what "fallaway" is: "it is the distance your front end will pivot side to side before falling away by itself. This is checked usually when it is up on a lift with the front wheel off the ground.

However, my bike had a slight shimmy in the front end when I rode with one hand. I had the shop check it, for balance and a true rim etc. and they adjusted the fallaway. Since then it has been perfect. Solid at the bars at all speeds hands or not.

How did adjusting the fallaway get rid of the shimmy? Did it involve the bearings in the neck? Were they loose causing the shimmy? That's all my feeble mind can think of. Thanks.

p.s. I was too stupid to ask them at the time. I am still stupid but now I am asking you guys cus yoo iz smarter than me which really isn't that amazing when you think about it.

[J's 02]

I thought it was the distance you could hold the bike from the ground without dropping it.

[jasilva]

Originally Posted by Dasher

Those, vehicle alignment and fuel filter changes.

Alignment is actually pretty simple if you follow the directions from Glide Pro, and a lot more accurate. Mine was good according to Harley but when I checked it it was out quite a bit. Enough that I got a nasty speed wobble in high speed sweepers with any kind of bump. Re-aligned it and it's rock steady up too 100mph now.

[Backroad Mike]

Originally Posted by gasbag

Ok, time for a stupid question. Can anyone explain what adjusting for "fallaway" means?

First, I think I know what "fallaway" is: "it is the distance your front end will pivot side to side before falling away by itself. This is checked usually when it is up on a lift with the front wheel off the ground.

However, my bike had a slight shimmy in the front end when I rode with one hand. I had the shop check it, for balance and a true rim etc. and they adjusted the fallaway. Since then it has been perfect. Solid at the bars at all speeds hands or not.

How did adjusting the fallaway get rid of the shimmy? Did it involve the bearings in the neck? Were they loose causing the shimmy? That's all my feeble mind can think of. Thanks.

p.s. I was too stupid to ask them at the time. I am still stupid but now I am asking you guys cus yoo iz smarter than me which really isn't that amazing when you think about it.

The fall away is the test they use to determine if the neck bearings need to be loosened, or tightened. Usually they need tightening as things wear.

Sometimes front end wobble can also be induced by cupped front tires.

[jasilva]

Originally Posted by gasbag

Ok, time for a stupid question. Can anyone explain what adjusting for "fallaway" means?

First, I think I know what "fallaway" is: "it is the distance your front end will pivot side to side before falling away by itself. This is checked usually when it is up on a lift with the front wheel off the ground.

However, my bike had a slight shimmy in the front end when I rode with one hand. I had the shop check it, for balance and a true rim etc. and they adjusted the fallaway. Since then it has been perfect. Solid at the bars at all speeds hands or not.

How did adjusting the fallaway get rid of the shimmy? Did it involve the bearings in the neck? Were they loose causing the shimmy? That's all my feeble mind can think of. Thanks.

p.s. I was too stupid to ask them at the time. I am still stupid but now I am asking you guys cus yoo iz smarter than me which really isn't that amazing when you think about it.

If the fall away is Wrong then you have too much or not enough friction in the steering head. The trail of the front wheel is designed to re center the wheel when moving, not enough friction and the wheel swings back past center, then the next surface irregularity deflects it again and you get wobbling. Too much friction and it doesn't re center and you get weaving, where the bike won't go straight without constant correction from the rider.
When it's correct the wheel will deflect on bumps but re center without input from you.

Joe

[vafatboy]

I am over due for this adjustment.................way over due.

[gasbag]

Thanks for the explanation guys. This sounds like a procedure that could be a pain in the rear end, sort of an "adjust and then ride to check it" sort of thing.

[jasilva]

Originally Posted by gasbag

Thanks for the explanation guys. This sounds like a procedure that could be a pain in the rear end, sort of an "adjust and then ride to check it" sort of thing.

Actually on road kings it's not too bad. Jack it up level, remove nacelle, remove clutch and throttle cables from the bars, pull bars full left and release, should swing right past center and then back to the left stopping near center or just past(according to Harley, I like mine slightly tighter so it doesn't swing past center on the stop), loosen the pinch bolts on the lower tree, loosen the locking nut on top of the trees and then adjust the star nut under the top tree if adjustment is needed. Have to use a long skinny screwdriver or a piece of stiff brazing rod to tap the adjuster. Give the lower tree a couple raps with a rubber mallet to make sure rust isnt seizing things up. Re tighten the lock nut and test again. Should be able to do a RK in less than an hour. Eglides and ugly shark nosed bikes take longer.

[vafatboy]

Originally Posted by jasilva

Actually on road kings it's not too bad. Jack it up level, remove nacelle, remove clutch and throttle cables from the bars, pull bars full left and release, should swing right past center and then back to the left stopping near center or just past(according to Harley, I like mine slightly tighter so it doesn't swing past center on the stop), loosen the locking nut on top of the trees and then adjust the star nut under the top treeif adjustment is needed. Have to use a long skinny screwdriver or a piece of stiff brazing rod to tap the adjuster. Re tighten the lock nut and test again. Should be able to do a RK in less than an hour. Eglides and ugly shark nosed bikes take longer.

Haven't done it...but don't the pinch bolts for the sliders need to be loosened as well?

[jasilva]

Originally Posted by vafatboy

Haven't done it...but don't the pinch bolts for the sliders need to be loosened as well?

Yep, got in a hurry and forgot that.

[Ancient Iron]

Originally Posted by vafatboy

Haven't done it...but don't the pinch bolts for the sliders need to be loosened as well?

Yes they do.

I tried adjusting mine to maint. manual specs and it felt to loose to me. Like jasilva, a bit snugger than that felt just right.

[vafatboy]

Originally Posted by jasilva

Yep, got in a hurry and forgot that.

Originally Posted by Ancient Iron

Yes they do.

I tried adjusting mine to maint. manual specs and it felt to loose to me. Like jasilva, a bit snugger than that felt just right.

Cool now I know how to do it.