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  #1  
Old 03-05-2010, 09:56 PM
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Clutch adjustment away from Daytona

Went through the drill of adjusting my clutch.
losened cable adjustment
removed Darby and adjusted clutch (backed out 3/4 from seat)
closed darby and finalized cable adjustment 1/8 inch play at ferrule.
Went to sqeeze the clutch and it appearred as though it had snapped.
the clutch is stuck in an engaged state and will not release. Anyone experience this? If so what is the fix?

Thanks

Mark
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  #2  
Old 03-05-2010, 10:08 PM
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sounds like you need to start over, make sure the cable didn't snap, its unlikely that it did.
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:13 PM
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So I understand...

Engaged = Clutch lever all the way out, like running down the road in gear.

Disengaged = Clutch lever pulled against the grip, like engine running, bike stopped, with a handfull of clutch.




Did you loosen, and remember to re-tighten, the jam nut?
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:24 PM
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or the adjusters in front of the frame......
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Old 03-05-2010, 10:42 PM
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Y2, I do not think the cable is broken, it is like the cable is jammed or stuck. It has alot of play in it.
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Old 03-05-2010, 11:02 PM
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Originally Posted by DB Road Dog View Post
Y2, I do not think the cable is broken, it is like the cable is jammed or stuck. It has alot of play in it.
try to tighten the adjuster on the front of the frame, is it tightening up? I find it hard to believe that it fell out of the ramp part on the tranny side, but that is also possible....

if it were me, first I would try to tighten the adjusters, then retry the clutch side jam nut adjustment (most likely the problem), then pull the tranny cover to see if the ramp got undone, that would really be a last resort, the more I think about it I think safety man was right, something went wrong on the jam nut adjustment...
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Old 03-05-2010, 11:04 PM
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stolen from another site:

Clutch Adjustment Technique By The Book


Let's go over the basics of clutch adjustment on late motorcycle models.

Ideally, you want the motorcycle to be on a lift or stand. The procedure can be done on the kickstand but, some primary fluid may leak out. If no lift is available, a block of wood under the stand will help then.

Putting the transmission in a higher gear will help here so the lock nut can be broken loose easier.

Back off the cable adjuster until the adjuster is fully collapsed.

Remove the derby cover and set aside.

Loosen the clutch adjuster lock nut two turns.

Turn the clutch adjuster in until it lightly seats against the clutch release. Seated means that it is touching but not pushing against the release. At this time the clutch lever should have very little play.

Back the adjuster out 1/2 to 1 full turn from seated. Repeat this several times to get the "feel" to get all the play out. I prefer an adjustment of about 1 1/8 turns out of a turn out for best feel .
NOTE: Backing the adjuster further than 1/2 turn out will move the clutch engagement point on the handle closer to the bar.

Lock the adjuster nut down while holding the adjuster from turning.

Work the clutch lever several times before adjusting the free play at the cable adjuster. Adjust the free play to 1/16" to 1/8" as measured at the pivot by pulling back on the sheathing of the clutch cable away from the clutch perch. I usually add just a little slack as a personal preference.

Work the clutch several times to make sure operation is smooth and no binding in any part of the travel.

Install the derby cover after topping off primary oil if needed.

Perform a test ride and adjust the free play as needed to get the engagement and release points correct once it is fully warmed up.
If you cannot adjust the clutch free play with the cable adjuster, the cable may be stretched or frayed. If the cable has been replaced, the wrong cable may have been installed.

A worn or warped clutch pack will often feel as if the adjustment is bad because it tends to make the release and engagement jerky. If after adjusting the free play you still have clutch operation problems it may be time to take a look at the clutch.

It's better to adjust the clutch so that it starts to grab at least an inch or more from the bar for complete disc separation, which translates into better/quieter shifting.
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  #8  
Old 03-05-2010, 11:41 PM
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Sounds like the balls on the ramp are out of place.
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Old 03-06-2010, 01:12 AM
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Originally Posted by vafatboy View Post
Sounds like the balls on the ramp are out of place.
Yep, if you didn't loosen the cable adjuster ALL the way before you adjusted the clutch itself you can drop the balls out of position in the ramps.
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Old 03-06-2010, 06:52 AM
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buy balls you mean bearings right? I am thinking that I will have to desasemble the cable and remove the tranmission cover. Some thing is jammed in there?
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  #11  
Old 03-06-2010, 07:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by vafatboy View Post
Sounds like the balls on the ramp are out of place.
Quote:
Originally Posted by jasilva View Post
Yep, if you didn't loosen the cable adjuster ALL the way before you adjusted the clutch itself you can drop the balls out of position in the ramps.
Yup, you guys nailed it.....now ask me how I know this?
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Old 03-06-2010, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by Peacekeeper View Post
Yup, you guys nailed it.....now ask me how I know this?
Nothing like a big oops to teach you how to do something right.

I seem to learn most of life's lessons this way.
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Old 03-06-2010, 05:55 PM
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Three ball bearings inside the release ramp inside the trans cover. You'll need to drop your exhaust out of the way to access it too. Giant PIA.
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Old 03-06-2010, 06:42 PM
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loosen the system up, then use a ball end, you don't have to take the exhaust off.....
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Old 03-06-2010, 07:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y2kflhr View Post
loosen the system up, then use a ball end, you don't have to take the exhaust off.....
That's what I do and I have several allen wrenches cut short for tight work.
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