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touch up paint how to/tutorial
Got a big, to my eye anyway, chip in the front fender on the CC April fools run. I'm pretty sure that trailer of 9's kicked up a big rock, chipped my fender, then broke my right spotlight, but he denies it! Cant remember all that "polite verbiage for bastage... but if I could I'd use it now
Anyway, dealer is getting me in a bottle of the touch up paint in the Concord Purple Pearl I need. A while back ran across a how to type page detailing how to use the touch up paints and make it look good... at least theirs looked good when they were done. Anything I have ever used it on I end up with a glob of paint in a rock chip hole. Anyway, cant find the tutorial on the web I has seen... anybody out there know of something like what I'm looking for? The one I had seen gave instructions for how to apply it, sand it, clear coat it, sand it etc. etc. |
#2
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Taste test the color first!
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#3
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yea that looks like it tastes a little more blueberry than I need. I think the color I need will taste more like
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#5
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thanks for pointing me there if anybody else knows of other sights with step by step instructions, let me know, I dont want to screw it up and make it look worse.
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#6
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The only time I have ever done it was on a car. You dont want to use the POS brush that comes in it. Get a book of matches. Tear one out, use the rough edge of the match where it was connected as your brush. Just dab the paint into the chip a little bit at a time. As it fills up, try and smooth it over. Once its done and dry, some light buffing compound will help smooth it out more and blend it. Add some wax and you shoudl be done. Couldnt find the chips in my car after I used that method....
Hope this helps
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Frank 2009 Vivid Black Street Glide Ultra RIP Diver, Bashful, Smitty, Clank, Johnny B, Fire46, Red Rider and Mongoose, GBNF "It is foolish to mourn the men that died. Rather we should thank God that such men lived" -General George S. Patton, Jr. |
#7
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Found this:
If you have factory paint then you can buy touch-up paint at the dealer. Get a can of paint prep at your local auto parts store. It basically just takes the wax/oil/greese off the area so the paint will adhere. If the chipped areas are down to the metal then you'll need to apply some primer first. Get some small artist brushes to apply the paint. Just do thin coats and let it dry for about 10 minutes in between coats. If it's cold then you can use a blow dryer to speed up the drying time. Just keep applying thin coats until you get the new paint level with the old. Let the paint dry for about a week then take some 3M med polish and try to blend in the chip - then wax the entire area. If you take your time and don't get in a rush then you'll be surprised at the results. The repainted areas will be hard to find and the casual observer will not even notice. and this: Most of it depends on what color it is. Solid colors are easier to repair but the color should match as closely as possible if not exactly. With metallics, pearls or any base/clear colors you are pretty much going to see the repair (touch-up) no matter how good it is. In those cases it is best to sand the chip out, prime the spot and repaint (blend) and clear. The optimum case would be a very shallow chip that is only in the clear or is solid black so let's assume that's the color. You would clean the spot well with some kind of paint prep like Pre-Cleano or Prep-Sol and then dry and tack it so it is free of solvents, dirt, and dust. Then you would fill the chip a little bit at a time making sure you keep the paint thoroughly stirred up. Let it dry for at least an hour between applications. Repeat until the surface of the fill is slightly higher than the surface of the surrounding panel. Then let it dry for at least a day in a warm dry environment. Longer if it is cold and/or damp. When the paint is hard take a small block of wood or anything flat and hard and wrap a peice of 600 wet around it. The object here is to try to sand only the paint that protrudes above the surface which is the fill. Don't sand it all the way down, leave a litte bit above the surface but when you get really close, switch to 1200 wet. At this point you are not pressing very hard, very light and let the paper do the work. when you just about reach the surface get something a little softer like a rubber squeegy and wrap the paper around it. Preferably this would be a used peice of 1200 wet, and sand lightly until the fill is level and blended in with the surrounding area. Remember to keep it small and don't press hard. Use clean water or you will create more problems than you are curing. After this, buff with fine white compound to remove the sand scratches, then follow up with some glaze to fill the swirl marks. You can seal it with wax or let it go depending on your preference. Good luck and this: Tape around the chip with masking tape leaving a hairs worth of edge around the chip exposed. Spend the money , about $12.00 for a quality artist very fine tip brush. Have laquer thinner on hand to clean brush. Buy a touch up bottle of Harley Vivid black and and touch up bottle of clear. Take the time to touch in very light coats of touch up into the chip. fill it slowly level by level even if it takes all day or into the next. make sure you leave enough room for at least three light coats of clear. Build it up until the touch up is just slightly above the original finish surface. Let the paint dry over night. take and very lightly go over the raised paint area with a couple of passes of wet or dry 220. (Wet) finish bringing the paint level with 1200 wet or dry again wet. use your judgement on the amount of 220 verses 1200 to get the surface level and scratch free smooth. the tape around the area will protect the surrounding paint from sand paper scratches. Go slow tiny bits at a time. Once you have the chip filled and level with surrounding paint remove tape and hit the area, chip and surrounding with some light polishing compound, then some 3-M hand glaze, and finally wax. and here is a link to a professional repair kit: http://www.langka.com/index.cfm?page=testimonials.cfm |
#8
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thanks all, I like that last method using the tape in ole ocho balls message, think I will go with using the tape for sure, like the idea of sanding it back down and protecting the area around it from my sanding... when the touch up paint comes in and I get it done I'll take some pics of the job and put here. Hopefully I it will come out nice with no mistakes so I won't be ridiculed publicly here... I get enough of that already
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#9
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You could just leave the chip there for character.....
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Frank 2009 Vivid Black Street Glide Ultra RIP Diver, Bashful, Smitty, Clank, Johnny B, Fire46, Red Rider and Mongoose, GBNF "It is foolish to mourn the men that died. Rather we should thank God that such men lived" -General George S. Patton, Jr. |
#10
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Quote:
I have talked about this with the trailer several times and it continues to deny any knowledge of said alleged rock throwing. If however it is guilty it sends its apologies. It could not have been one of those big trucks running down the road could it. |
#11
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Quote:
Quote:
so
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#12
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I thought about that, but its about 1/8" or more diameter, and all the way down to the metal
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#13
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busted passing lamp also
mentioned earlier in this post I think that I believe the same rock went up and cracked my passing lamp as well. It looks to me to be just a lens with a halogen bulb behind it correct? In my parts book it shows the light to be 68453-05 and the lens 68414-05 which is the part I need I think but the book shows a fluted lens (just a drawing so ??) and the '06's have a smooth non fluted lens... just a bad artist you think? lens is about $21.00 from Zanotti's but with shipping of over $14 might be as cheap locally. Lots of recommendations on other sights as to what bulb is best any recommendations here?
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#14
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Quote:
Let me know. |
#15
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Quote:
Just sayin'...
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Rick "Keeping a candle lit" "RIP Butkus" 2002-2006 Danger: Propane Keep Back 200 Feet |
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