Torque wrenches

[TalonChief]

This whole question came into my mind while trying to decide between getting an old wrench cal'd versus purchasing a new one. I'm looking for some input on brand quality (stability, repeatability, durability, overall quality) vs. cost.

Would also appreciate some input on wrench style--click vs. dial vs. electronic load cell. My experience on aircraft tells me that dial-type wrenches are usually used in very high torque areas or where very precise readings are required, but that's purely anecdotal.

And I know Snap-on is at/near the top, but as a relative shade-tree, I can't really amortize the cost of a $300 wrench that I might use a few times a year at best.

I currently have a couple of Craftsman clickers, 50-250 in-lb and 10-250 ft-lb, and a 0-250 ft-lb beam style. The ft-lb clicker is 22 years old and I am positive it is out of cal--it's been dropped a few times . This particular wrench is the genesis of the original question.

On another, but similar note; anyone ever use a torque multiplier when installing a compensator nut? Seems like this handy, albeit really expensive, tool would cut back a little on the need to wear a truss after performing this installation.

[Geezer-Glide]

On another, but similar note; anyone ever use a torque multiplier when installing a compensator nut? Seems like this handy, albeit really expensive, tool would cut back a little on the need to wear a truss after performing this installation.
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No, just bought a reeeeealllly long breaker bar. Still have ta grunt and puff, but the comp nut isn't something thats done every other week.


Well............. maybe for most folks, but for those of us in the "Can't leave well enough alone club..."

[TalonChief]

Originally Posted by Geezer-Glide

On another, but similar note; anyone ever use a torque multiplier when installing a compensator nut? Seems like this handy, albeit really expensive, tool would cut back a little on the need to wear a truss after performing this installation.
__________________

No, just bought a reeeeealllly long breaker bar. Still have ta grunt and puff, but the comp nut isn't something thats done every other week.


Well............. maybe for most folks, but for those of us in the "Can't leave well enough alone club..."

The idea came to me when I saw a multiplier in a thrift shop the other day. 25:1 reduction seems like it would make easy work of a comp nut.

[TalonChief]

bump

[Berserker]

My tq wrench doesn't go high enough for comp nut either. I used the same cheater bar I tokit off with. Stayed on for 20k miles. But I will probably be taking off this winter. So not sure if I will buy one or not. Other then comp nut I have neverr needed one that goes that high. I have couple craftsman, one inches one feet.

I am not recomending a damn thing.

[TerryMiller]

I've used planetary gear set torque multipliers, but not for comp nuts. They work fine, but they need to be calibrated as well. Our brand new multiplier with a 4:1 gear set came from Snap-on with a tag stating 3.78:1 after frictional losses. It calibrated at 3.73:1.

[Friday1]

I mechaniced for a big city fire dept for 30 years, and ran the annual ladder tests. Evcery other year all the bolts had to be torqued and I used a multiplier. Some went to 660 ft. lbs! You just have to keep the multiplier lubed and check for worn or broken parts. It should state on the tool what the factor is you multiply by. In the bike shop I used a Snap-On electric but it got used alot. You are right that it is a tall price to pay if you are just using it occasionaly. Shop around to find someone to calibrate your old tool. Maybe do a search online. I have had Snap-On torque wrenches that were obsolete in two years and there were no parts to repair them! Not so with the electric ones so far.
On the comp nut, after you do torque it, take the clutch drum and try to turn it like a steering wheel by the starter ring gear. Watch the crank end area to see if the comp nut moves and the crank stays still. If it does, you need a thicker shim in there. ALso make sure the crank threads and comp threads are surgically clean. Then apply red locktite. Let it set overnight to get the full locking effect. Make damn sure you remove the plastic "ramp" that keeps the chain from turning! I saw one that the tech in a MOCO shop had left it in there and when the customer hit the starter it was not pretty. Hope this helps. Friday

[TalonChief]

Originally Posted by Friday1

Shop around to find someone to calibrate your old tool. Maybe do a search online.

There is a place here in town. Last time I talked to them it was $25 regardless of whether the wrench ultimately cal'd or not.

Originally Posted by Friday1

On the comp nut, after you do torque it, take the clutch drum and try to turn it like a steering wheel by the starter ring gear. Watch the crank end area to see if the comp nut moves and the crank stays still. If it does, you need a thicker shim in there. ALso make sure the crank threads and comp threads are surgically clean. Then apply red locktite. Let it set overnight to get the full locking effect.

I have an 06. I'd be surprised if I needed a shim, but I'll certainly check it while everything is apart.

Originally Posted by Friday1

Make damn sure you remove the plastic "ramp" that keeps the chain from turning! I saw one that the tech in a MOCO shop had left it in there and when the customer hit the starter it was not pretty. Hope this helps. Friday

I have one of the steel bars that goes from clutch basket to compensator. Last time I did this particular job, I used an old screwdriver handle.

[BigSwede]

I bought a set of craftsman torque wrenches (similar to the ones you have, Chief) a couple years ago. Had a buddy that worked the flight like take them and check the calibration, all of them were spot on, believe it or not. Now I just have to keep from dropping them........

[fxr4mikey]

mine too

[TJ Willy]

Based on your amortization schedule, which is a very good way to think about such a tool, I would recommend getting your ol' faithful cal'd. Unless you think it is beyond holding a calibration.

Unless you go big name, I have always heard you should get them checked.

I just borrow one from my AF buddies when I need one. They buy Matco and Snap-on in the hanger where I work. I can't justify buying one at this point in the game. In my Jeepin days, somebody always had one on hand.

[Berserker]

If you actually use it, faitfully, you got to have something. Tire changes, oil changes, if you want to be accurate there is always something to use it on.

How accurate is mine, dunno. I have tried using both of them on the same bolt. 1/2 assed way to check. As far as paying $25, hell a new Craftsman one is around 70 and can get them on sale for 60. I amnot sure where I could even take mine. Though eventaully I would like to.