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Electrical Systems & Diagnostics Troubleshoot electrical problems here.

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  #16  
Old 07-31-2008, 09:48 AM
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  #17  
Old 07-31-2008, 09:51 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8-Ball View Post
I know it can be done... any procedural thoughts?

missed ya man...
I have this saved. shows how to tap the acc circuit
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  #18  
Old 07-31-2008, 09:52 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Kenney View Post
What are you running in the Headlight?
I like what you did the the passing lights.
Don't forget to check the load on the electrical system before going to the higher Wattage bulbs. ( Watts \ Volts = Amps, 20 watts \ 12 volts = 1.667 amps)
I think I'm back to stock, but I'm going to put back in the silver star... its a little bluer than the MR16s...

I've got a lot less electrical crap than an Ultra... same battery... same harness... I think I'll be okay...

Quote:
Originally Posted by thrasher View Post
Its been written up at least a couple of times I remember. I think it was down the street. I may have a wiring diagram at home. Logically, it seems like just wiring around (instead of through) the high/low beam switch.

Obvoiusly more load on the electrical system, but I don't think anything to worry about on a Road King. Ultra may have to worry because of more electrical draw from all the electrical gadgets.
I hate going over there... I'm thinking of using that other light switch... it doesn't do anything. I still want to be able to turn them off if I want to.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Scabbydoo View Post
Anybody have part no's for the Sylvanial Silver Star for headlamp and do they have one that fits the passing lamps.
Just use the cross reference chart at the auto parts store... than add about 20 watts... should be okay...
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  #19  
Old 07-31-2008, 09:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8-Ball View Post
Just use the cross reference chart at the auto parts store... than add about 20 watts... should be okay...
Thanks, but was thinking more about the socket fit. Does the chart show scoots?
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  #20  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:00 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scabbydoo View Post
Thanks, but was thinking more about the socket fit. Does the chart show scoots?
what about cross reference was unclear...
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  #21  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:06 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Scabbydoo View Post
Thanks, but was thinking more about the socket fit. Does the chart show scoots?
I do remember a great thread about this down the road. I know they had part numbers, etc... might search for Silverstar... (?)
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  #22  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:10 AM
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I used to have something, if not, I will write something up when I get back.

I just clicked on an attachment, I had saved as favorite, from VTF, but need $15.
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  #23  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:18 AM
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Tom... found this... I think I'll try it...

"I switched to the 80/100 osram bulb. It's a great buy and it works very well. A few of my riding buddies saw it and switched also after seeing the way it worked. It lights up side to side and lights up the road signs like they are electric.

For $11.58, it's a hard one to beat.

Third one down on this page.

http://www.germanautoparts.com/hardware/Bulbs/H4#3 "
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  #24  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:25 AM
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Looking at the schematic, for my 01, the power to the spot switch, comes from the wire going to the low beam. So that when you turn low beams off, the spotsd lose power too.

Maybe could wire the yellow wire on the spot light to the W on the high beam. Hooki t up to both W and and Y. Maybe just put a jumper from Y to W in the left hand controls. Connector 24 on my 01.

I suppose I could try seeing on they did it on my 01.

Could do the acces power, not 100% happy with that though. I could pull the acc fuse on my 01 and see if lights go out. On 2nd though this may not be a bad idea. They would have there own fuse. which would be njice for bigger lights.

I wil think about this.
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  #25  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:29 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8-Ball View Post
Tom... found this... I think I'll try it...

"I switched to the 80/100 osram bulb. It's a great buy and it works very well. A few of my riding buddies saw it and switched also after seeing the way it worked. It lights up side to side and lights up the road signs like they are electric.

For $11.58, it's a hard one to beat.

Third one down on this page.

http://www.germanautoparts.com/hardware/Bulbs/H4#3 "
The h4s I have been buying are around 40-50. I have been running 100/110. This is alot cheaper.

Is a H4 universal? Can I just get one at a auto store? If one fails on the road, would suck. I carry an old one that I think the low is burnt out on.
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  #26  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8-Ball View Post
Tom... found this... I think I'll try it...

"I switched to the 80/100 osram bulb. It's a great buy and it works very well. A few of my riding buddies saw it and switched also after seeing the way it worked. It lights up side to side and lights up the road signs like they are electric.

For $11.58, it's a hard one to beat.

Third one down on this page.

http://www.germanautoparts.com/hardware/Bulbs/H4#3 "
At that price, almost have to do it out of principal. Think I might order as well.
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  #27  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:35 AM
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found this too:

"I just changed my passing lights to operation on both high and low beams. I was just about to cut the wire that is spliced into the low beam circuit and try to attach it it to a 12V source. Before I cut the wire, I noticed the switch for the passing lamps had 4 wires - Orange/White, Yellow, Gray/Black and Blue/White. Apparently, the Blue/White is for non US bikes, so it is not connected to anything on my bike. The Blue/White wire has power from the accessory circuit (Orange/White wire) until you turn on the passing lamps. Then power is off to the Blue/White and the Gray/Black has 12V, provided the low beam is on (yellow wire).

All I did was swap the Orange/White wire with the Yellow wire in the connector. Now the passing lamps have power regardless of the high/low beam (powered from the accessory circuit) and the blue/white wire is now powered by the low beam circuit. The blue/white isn't used, so there is no effect of changing the power source for the blue/white wire.

You can just push the wires out of the connector and swap positions - takes about 2 minutes to to the change and you don't have to cut or splice anything. Plus you can easily go back to the original."
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  #28  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:36 AM
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There just bulbs, there chrage so much, just cause they can.
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  #29  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:39 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 8-Ball View Post
found this too:

"I just changed my passing lights to operation on both high and low beams. I was just about to cut the wire that is spliced into the low beam circuit and try to attach it it to a 12V source. Before I cut the wire, I noticed the switch for the passing lamps had 4 wires - Orange/White, Yellow, Gray/Black and Blue/White. Apparently, the Blue/White is for non US bikes, so it is not connected to anything on my bike. The Blue/White wire has power from the accessory circuit (Orange/White wire) until you turn on the passing lamps. Then power is off to the Blue/White and the Gray/Black has 12V, provided the low beam is on (yellow wire).

All I did was swap the Orange/White wire with the Yellow wire in the connector. Now the passing lamps have power regardless of the high/low beam (powered from the accessory circuit) and the blue/white wire is now powered by the low beam circuit. The blue/white isn't used, so there is no effect of changing the power source for the blue/white wire.

You can just push the wires out of the connector and swap positions - takes about 2 minutes to to the change and you don't have to cut or splice anything. Plus you can easily go back to the original."
Have to look into this. Woyuld good to be able to go back, in case you cam e across a prickish cop. Being in CA
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  #30  
Old 07-31-2008, 10:58 AM
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Here is the diagram for making the passing lights independent of the high beam function using the accessory switch I think.

I'm changing mine to the left side accessory switch so its easier to use with the left hand...
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