any inner cam chain issues / problems

[trmn8r]

In looking at the Bob Woods Knight Prowler Silent Belt drive system, their web site says it eliminates 2 common problems with TC engines, noise and out of round cranks. Can be used with either gear drive or chain cams. All existing inner cam chains can be used with it. So just wondered if there were any longevity issues with the inner cam chain. I dont remember hearing of any... its always the outer cam chain tensioners I've heard of having problems. Just wondering if there would be an advantage to using gear drive cam set just for the inner gears over using a chain drive cam set with the inner chain. Their page for the belt drive system says it is a complete kit including the knight prowler cams of your choice. According to their price list page the price difference is only $65 so if thats the price of the belt drive kit with cams it wouldn't be much more to go with the inner gears if they are better.

* WBG-1 2000 -2006 T.CAM W/GEAR DRIVE $1,340.00
* WBC -1 2000-2006 TWIN CAM INNER CHAIN $1,275.00

[MegaGlide]

Inner tensioners go to hell just like the outers.

[trmn8r]

yea your right for some reason I wasn't thinking of the tensioner on it, I was picturing it in my mind without a tensioner, just a chain that fits tight due to length with no tensioner needed. After I read you post I grabbed my parts manual and realized it does have a tensioner on it. I guess I was picturing that when the cams were pressed in the plate that the chain was just the right length to work, but it would have to stretch eventually then it would need a tensioner.

Then if I am understanding their sight and price list correctly there would be no reason not to go with a gear drive cam set that has the inner gears.

only downfall to the belt drive I see is I'd have a 7 timing cover with no place to mount it. that and price, but if your dealing with a crank runout issue its gonna cost extra no matter if its fixed by this solution or fixing the crank right.

Wish I could find some more info on this system out there but cant find anything searching other forums, guess its to new.

[pa-glazier]

The Woods belt drive has been out for at least a couple of years now. I think that it's main advantage is the ability to easily adjust the cam timing. I think that this feature is mostly used in racing applications.

[trmn8r]

makes sense due to the easy adjustment of timing... strange that I cant find any mention of it at the other place or even the other place. Maybe I'm just using the wrong search terms.

[pa-glazier]

Maybe it just hasn't caught on. Why don't you just check your runout and go from there. It's not that big of a deal to check.

[trmn8r]

yea your right, also I did some more searching and found some reading at the other place on the belt drive.

Les, give Bob Wood a call, he's a very nice man, and when it comes to making an engine run a lot better, he knows his $hit! His number is right there on his web site.

[trmn8r]

When I first saw his belt drive system mentioned here it looked like it might be a good workaround for someone with a runout problem. I've been just fretting and worrying about that I"m gonna have a runout problem". Thought this might be the big cure to make me quit worrying about it for good. After Pa-Glazier's post I kind of thought it over and realized no sense in planning for the worst till I check it out and find out for real if its even an issue I need to worry about. Then after setting here and thinking it over any more and doing some soul searching I came to the conclusion that for the cost of that system and the fact that I don't ride and am not creating a sexy bar hopper, but rather a bike I ride and ride and ride, if I do have a runout issue my best bet would probably be to just use a chain drive and have the chains polished and check the shoes on time and just ride it.

The belt drive looks sweet thats what its attraction to me was. It may very well help with the runout issue a little better than just using polished chains, but in reality for the price its probably not the sensible solution to go with. (not that sensible and Les are often used in the same sentence)

[pa-glazier]

If you install quick install pushrods you can easily pull your cam plate and check the tensioner wear on a regular basis.

[Thorns]

With a dental mirror you can check the inner tensioner wear, no need to pull the cam plate unless you want to change the tensioner. And, you can replace the inner cam tensioner without removing the cams or chain. Be careful, use two needle nose vicegrips, tape the shoe so it doesn't flop, load the spring to the install position, and slide it on. The trick is to get the spring loaded with the two vice grips where you can get the hole in the tensioner over the dowel, and the spring tang in the cam plate hole. It can be done, I didn't say it was easy. I have thought just maybe I will make a tool to load the spring so you don't have to use the vice grips, but I sold my 05 Low Rider (R & D), and now have a 07 (different setup). It's a wonder some of the engine guys don't come up with a tool...I think most 06 and older owners would buy it. (Are you hearing me Stan? Think outside the box!)

Thorns

[TXCHOP]

The woods belt drive does sounds nice to me as well. I am still thinking of using it in my next build. I like the idea of changing the cam timing a lot.Think that you would be able to change your hp/tq curves in minutes does sound nice to me. Next time i talk to Scott at Hillside i will inquire about it.

[rtb]

trmn8r...there are a few choices available. No expert here, but it seems to me that if you knew what your crank runout was, you maybe could include gear driven cams as a choice.
I had .00325 runout, but when all the tolerances lined up, I had gears that didn't bind (this is good), and was only a little over spec. on the looses spot. Mine is noisier than I'd hoped, but within what I knew was possible. It's been 12k miles since I put the gears in. I feel like I have a solid fix albeit a bit noisy. I shouldn't have to go into the cam chest for maintenance again. If your crank is within spec, this option would be less money than the belt drive. You may have a small amount of runout, which should make for a quiet drive.

[trmn8r]

any recommendations on which quick install/adjustable pushrods to use? doing a little reading at the other sight, the adjustable ones aren't quick install, have to still pull rocker covers to get them out/in. The Quick install all seem to need new pushrod tubes to not hit. Are there any quick install that fit in stock tubes?

thinking maybe these might be best bet, $109.85 from Zaontti's about the best I've found considering price looking quickly

[Geezer-Glide]

Originally Posted by Thorns

With a dental mirror you can check the inner tensioner wear, no need to pull the cam plate unless you want to change the tensioner. And, you can replace the inner cam tensioner without removing the cams or chain. Be careful, use two needle nose vicegrips, tape the shoe so it doesn't flop, load the spring to the install position, and slide it on. The trick is to get the spring loaded with the two vice grips where you can get the hole in the tensioner over the dowel, and the spring tang in the cam plate hole. It can be done, I didn't say it was easy. I have thought just maybe I will make a tool to load the spring so you don't have to use the vice grips, but I sold my 05 Low Rider (R & D), and now have a 07 (different setup). It's a wonder some of the engine guys don't come up with a tool...I think most 06 and older owners would buy it. (Are you hearing me Stan? Think outside the box!)

Thorns

Thorns said TANG!!!!