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  #16  
Old 05-03-2010, 05:18 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Geezer-Glide View Post
I paid 125 online. I'm not home right now, so I don't have the bookmark available. Dealer price is around 200 bucks and the book calls for 4 hours labor. That would bring the cost to around 600 bucks including taxes.
I'd call that reasonable.

I just had my stator and rotor replaced by the Dealer in Wytheville, VA. They charged me 3.1 hours of labor. Parts were 443.35, and no I didn't call Jenni. I don't have the tools here to work on it, and didn't want to wait and see "if" the parts were available by mail. They had the parts and were exceptional to deal with.

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Originally Posted by swmnkdinthervr View Post
Oh really...!!!???


Dealers in this area charge between 8-10 hours for replacement + the cost of the belt.
That's robbery, anyway you slice it.
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  #17  
Old 05-03-2010, 06:07 PM
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I got a cut/hole in the center of the belt from a stone. That was 40k miles ago. Every time I think about changing it, I look at the hole that hasn't changed in size and keep getting up.
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  #18  
Old 05-03-2010, 11:00 PM
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Originally Posted by vafatboy View Post
I got a cut/hole in the center of the belt from a stone. That was 40k miles ago. Every time I think about changing it, I look at the hole that hasn't changed in size and keep getting up.
As long as it's not getting bigger, I guess your ok.

I wouldn't ride across country that way.
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  #19  
Old 05-06-2010, 08:10 AM
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Is it recommended to replace the drive pulleys at the same time?
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  #20  
Old 05-06-2010, 10:32 AM
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I recently replaced mine because I was swapping to a wider tire. Picked mine up from eBay for 130. Dayco Panther. Its a big job, special tools, etc. I had it apart for other reasons so not so much of a big deal while I was in there.I called the local dealer just now and was quoted $566 to replace the stock belt on a 2001 RK.
This includes the $240 for the belt.
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  #21  
Old 05-06-2010, 10:34 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Fe Butte View Post
Is it recommended to replace the drive pulleys at the same time?
Not required, but subject to inspection.
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  #22  
Old 12-11-2010, 11:34 PM
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my belt parted in my driveway and I am going to install the new item

The tools are available on line.

I will tackel it after Christmas
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  #23  
Old 12-12-2010, 07:09 AM
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Seeing that I had to replace mine last month, here's the latest.

Belt from HD: 199.00 From Jenni (shipped) 179.00
Seals Gaskets: 51.00
1 1/2 & 1 3/8 sockets 29.00 (bought a 5 pc set of large sockets fm Sears)
2 cans of parts cleaner: 9.00
1 large roll paper towels: 1.00
1 qt 75-90 Lucas gear oil: 10.00
new rear pulley (87.00 ebay)

Total cost done in my garage: $366.00
Having our friend come 90 miles with a trailer to get us: Priceless:

Shennandoah HD wanted 4.5 hour labor and did NOT have a belt in stock.
To be honest, Jenni didn't either and it took 8 days before it arrived.

I already had 1/2" breaker bar and a 4' piece of black iron pipe to use over the end of the breaker to remove the comp nut and good torque wrench.

Replacing the rear pulley was necessary because after 118k it was starting to come apart and could have been the reason for the belt failure. Approximately 55k miles on this belt. First one was replaced at 63k when we did the 103 build. I dont see the value in the supposed tougher belts posted earlier if thier failing around 50k. A very reliable HD parts manager I know said they don't last past 60-65k anyway.
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  #24  
Old 12-12-2010, 08:39 AM
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Interesting info sir.

At a little under 50K my belt and drive pulley are both looking very rough. Each belt tooth has 2 deep wear spots through the rubber into the fiber.

I've been shopping around and I think I'll try the heavy duty sidecar belt, (40130-03 for 97'-03' 139T) it's only $16 higher. And of course replace both pulleys.
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  #25  
Old 12-12-2010, 09:03 AM
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I have been researching this for a few weeks, I am going with a 530 oring roller chain and a Zippers sprocket kit. I am still on my first belt, the pullys look like they are flaking but the belt looks fine. Crappy design having to pull the whole primary and swingarm apart to swap a common wear item. Chains may be old school, but they are proven and they are a bitch to break.
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  #26  
Old 12-12-2010, 09:27 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ancient Iron View Post
Interesting info sir.

At a little under 50K my belt and drive pulley are both looking very rough. Each belt tooth has 2 deep wear spots through the rubber into the fiber.

I've been shopping around and I think I'll try the heavy duty sidecar belt, (40130-03 for 97'-03' 139T) it's only $16 higher. And of course replace both pulleys.
Yup, sidecar belt wont fit on my bike.
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  #27  
Old 12-12-2010, 10:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Backroad Mike View Post
Yup, sidecar belt wont fit on my bike.
I'm not sure, but I beleave the high load sidecar belts are standard on the touring bikes after 2003.
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  #28  
Old 12-12-2010, 11:24 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidecar Doug View Post
I'm not sure, but I beleave the high load sidecar belts are standard on the touring bikes after 2003.
I think you're right, but I think it happened a bit later, but I'm not sure either.

edit: I was at a new model intro in Rapid City and they had 2 ultras suspended by a belt as an illustration of the new standard belts strength.
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  #29  
Old 12-12-2010, 02:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Sidecar Doug View Post
I'm not sure, but I beleave the high load sidecar belts are standard on the touring bikes after 2003.
Nope. According to Jenni, they were standard UP to 2003. 2004 they went to the 1 1/8" belt. 2003 and older was 1 1/2" and could take the larger belt. I suppose if you had the right spacing and a 1 1/2 rear pulley it might be useable if you remove the belt guard. The front belt pulley is wide enough to support the 1 1/2" belt.
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Old 12-12-2010, 04:14 PM
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