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  #16  
Old 01-23-2009, 08:02 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y2kflhr View Post
I think we are back to the sawzall...
I was so frustrated earlier I nearly grabbed the 12 gauge.

But I figured the overspray would be tough to buff out.
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  #17  
Old 01-23-2009, 08:13 PM
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I have a buffer if ya need to borrow it...
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  #18  
Old 01-23-2009, 08:14 PM
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I could use a fluffer.
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  #19  
Old 01-23-2009, 08:21 PM
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Originally Posted by Berserker View Post
I could use a fluffer.
when I had hair I sometimes fluffed it, but that was the 80's
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  #20  
Old 01-23-2009, 08:44 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by y2kflhr View Post
when I had hair I sometimes fluffed it, but that was the 80's
Now THAT I'd like to see....







I have never needed a fluffer... but they sure do look fun.
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  #21  
Old 01-23-2009, 11:53 PM
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You have to remove the wires from the connector. If it's like the RK it's inside the headlamp nacelle, but follow the wire to the amp multi lock electrical connector. Separate the two halves. There is a secondary lock on the side the wires go into. Open that. Insert a pick or small screw driver into the openings on the opposite side from the wire. Give it a wiggle and the wire and socket pin will slip out. Remove all the wires from the plug and you can then pull the whole cable free. Hope this helps.

TOE
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  #22  
Old 01-24-2009, 09:16 AM
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I need to check, but I think that's under the seat. It also appears I'm going to have to become familiar with shrink tubing, as the new signals are just plain wires.

There may be a free beer offer for another pair of hands to help me finish this one.....

Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTOE View Post
You have to remove the wires from the connector. If it's like the RK it's inside the headlamp nacelle, but follow the wire to the amp multi lock electrical connector. Separate the two halves. There is a secondary lock on the side the wires go into. Open that. Insert a pick or small screw driver into the openings on the opposite side from the wire. Give it a wiggle and the wire and socket pin will slip out. Remove all the wires from the plug and you can then pull the whole cable free. Hope this helps.
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  #23  
Old 01-24-2009, 09:24 AM
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If it's like the Deuce it's under the tank.

Ya can move the tank back enough to get to the connector without taking it off, but just barely. Ya have to remove all the bolts, but not the rubber connecting tube, then slide the tank straight back. It's probably easier if ya take the dash off. I did.


I've had the turn signals apart on the Deuce. Don't remember how. Otto does and so does my manual. I'll check with one of them if I need to do it again.
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  #24  
Old 01-24-2009, 09:25 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BigTOE View Post
You have to remove the wires from the connector. If it's like the RK it's inside the headlamp nacelle, but follow the wire to the amp multi lock electrical connector. Separate the two halves. There is a secondary lock on the side the wires go into. Open that. Insert a pick or small screw driver into the openings on the opposite side from the wire. Give it a wiggle and the wire and socket pin will slip out. Remove all the wires from the plug and you can then pull the whole cable free. Hope this helps.

TOE
Yup, this is correct. I remember reading this in manual. The connectors are OEM Deutsch connectors. Deutsch actually makes a special pick for this, but I used one of my Craftsman picks. Make sure you keep track of the pin assignments in the connector, so you can put them back in the right place. There is a website out there that sells the Deutsch connectors and all the parts,... and has pictures on how to release the pins. I bought some from them when I soldered up a pigtail for my accessory plug. I will try to find the site again.

Quote:
Originally Posted by '05Train View Post
I need to check, but I think that's under the seat. It also appears I'm going to have to become familiar with shrink tubing, as the new signals are just plain wires.

There may be a free beer offer for another pair of hands to help me finish this one.....
Shrink tubing is very easy,... just be very careful not to overheat it or burn the wire insulation.
A high powered hair dryer works okay for the smaller stuff.
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  #25  
Old 01-24-2009, 09:48 AM
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For Deutsch connector source:

http://www.deutschconnector.com/

There are some good "how to" articles (including removing and replacing the pins):

http://www.deutschconnector.com/technical.html
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  #26  
Old 01-24-2009, 11:16 AM
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WTF is RTFM?
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  #27  
Old 01-24-2009, 11:23 AM
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Read The F*cking (or Factory) Manual, which I did last night.

Good to know I can get at the connectors without completely removing the tank.
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  #28  
Old 01-24-2009, 11:34 AM
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Softail connectors are under the tank. Attached to the right side of the backbone at the AMP connector. You can pick the connector and put new ends on your new turn signal wires (if their long enough).

The dealer will have the pins for the connector. The manual has a pretty good section on picking connectors.
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  #29  
Old 01-24-2009, 11:42 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by '05Train View Post
I need to check, but I think that's under the seat. It also appears I'm going to have to become familiar with shrink tubing, as the new signals are just plain wires.
I just replaced mine on the RK and they use the Amp Connector on that, but they also use Deutsch like Thrasher said and that my be what you have on the Train. Either way, once you determine which connector, take the new wires down to the dealer and ask them to crimp new pins on for you. It's a 10 cent pin so they will charge you about a dollar a piece.
They have a special crimper and it takes about 2 minutes to crimp them all. Much easier than splicing and heat shrink and you don't have to try and hide all those splices. The holes are numbered in the connectors. Just make sure you note the sequence before you remove the wires if you don't have the instructions.

Like vafatboy said while I was typing all of that. I know...I type slow.
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Last edited by BigTOE; 01-24-2009 at 11:48 AM.
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  #30  
Old 01-24-2009, 11:45 AM
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Bring it over here, we can work on it in the garage.

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