Wild 1 WO575s

Another question I have is how will they (wo575s) work with faring mounted mirrors?

[harleyjsb]

I don't think they will work..............

[TalonChief]

Originally Posted by pairofnines

Another question I have is how will they (wo575s) work with faring mounted mirrors?

From what I've read, you'll be able to see your hands real well.

[TalonChief]

Originally Posted by vafatboy

IMHO you won't be happy with the bent/rerouted brake line. I did it and changed it out within a couple of days.

I did this on my FXST when I put 10" mini-apes on it and it worked out OK. 'Course, if it looks like a$$, I'll swap it out sooner than I planned to--I'm eventually going to braided on both brake lines.

Originally Posted by TalonChief

From what I've read, you'll be able to see your hands real well.

So how do you fill holes in the inner faring?

[TalonChief]

Originally Posted by pairofnines

So how do you fill holes in the inner faring?

I don't know where you'd get 'em, but they do make small plastic plugs to fill unused holes. I have seen them in auto parts stores. Global industrial might also have them.

[TalonChief]

Originally Posted by TalonChief

I'm slightly concerned about Wild 1's demand for a 1-piece top clamp. NO one seems to follow this guidance. I sent them a note asking if they even knew of one that would work.

Originally Posted by pairofnines

I ask them the same question and got nothing. Hope you have better luck.

Got this reply from Wild 1:

You will not need a 1 piece top clamp as long as you do not transport
the bike by strapping the handlebars down.

I guess they're afraid of bending them at the weak 1" point in the center of the bar.

Originally Posted by TalonChief

Got this reply from Wild 1:



I guess they're afraid of bending them at the weak 1" point in the center of the bar.

Probable that their position is one of CYA but seems overly cautious to me.

At least they acknowledged the one piece is not needed----they may not know of one that will work either.

Edit: Thanks for the info.

[TalonChief]

Got all my parts together. The adventure begins tomorrow--pics to follow sometime thereafter.

[TalonChief]

This has now officially become one of those jobs I'd rather have paid someone to do. All of the writeups I've read used stock cables and said it takes about 3 hours. New cables adds to that exponentially it seems. Wel, at least I got the critical fasteners part of the 5K done while I had the tank raised.

Barnett's quality control leaves something to be desired. The idle cable is a bit longer than it's supposed to be, so 3/4s of the adjustment is already used up. I suppose I can cut a 1/4" off of it and re-swedge an end, but it's OK for now. I have a feeling the cables associated with HD's reach bars would have been exactly the right size and they are cheaper too.

The front brake line, after bending the crap out of it, JUST fits. VAFatboy, you're right, it's next on the list of things to change.

I have most of the front end back together and will do the clutch cable tomorrow. I'll post the pics once I get done and have a chance to put them all together.

[TalonChief]

Well, the in-process pics I took suck. The job was tedious and required removing way too much stuff, but I finally got it done.

My first impression is that the bars feel wide--almost beach-barish compared to the stockers. I put 500+ miles on today and have yet to get the feel for them in turns. I seem to have a tendency to over-steer. I suppose that wil change as I get used to them.

The quality and finish is everything everyone else has already said. They are wayy beefier than the stockers. All the welds were clean and the chrome is perfect. The holes for the wires are machined and smooth.

Unfortunately, I still got the burning shoulder on the left side, but the only time I have not gotten that was with apes. So, all in all, from a cosmetic stand point, they're great. Functionally, I think I could have spent that $400 on ported heads or geared cams.

[TalonChief]

Well, here’re the semi-lame pics I took whilst installing my WO575s. First off I had camera troubles, so a lot of the initial disassembly is not covered. Don’t be hopin’ this will be the entire procedure. I strongly suggest anyone reading this in the distant future understand that attempting this without the factory service manual (FSM) would not be a bright idear.

Based on reading several other install pictorials, I went with a +4 clutch cable and +2 on the throttle and idle cables. These lengths are probably correct, but I believe Barnett’s quality control could use an upgrade. The idle cable’s swage stop is easily ¼ inch too far from where it should be (throttle cable was good) and this ate up 3/4ths of the cable’s adjustment. Also, Barnett used 90* bends at the grip, versus 70* bends in the stock cables. I have noticed this tends to push the idle cable back when turning the bars to the locks—one of those little plastic clamps to hold the cables together would solve this. I’m fairly confident that HD’s cable set designed for their Reach bars would probably work just fine.

Well, first off ya’ gotta’ pull the batwing. It’s 7 torx screws and comes right off, if you can squeeze your paw in there to get the headlamp connector off. Note the cloth over the right spotlight. Do this so you don’t scratch up the paint on the fairing. This is actually a much later in the process pic, but you get the idea—I suck as a photographer



Here’s a shot from the back of the fairing. Note the bug fuzzy blankey on the tank and fender. You end up laying a lot of stuff on there, so be sure you have something available—I used a furniture moving pad. Based on other writeups I read, apparently the radio on earlier models is a PITA to remove. On my 06 it was 4 allen-head cap screws and it slipped right out facilitating easy access to the risers. The yellow mason’s twine is around the mirror stem to hold the master cylinder so it’s not just dangling in the way. The left grip assy is a no-brainer.



Ignition switch comes apart too. It’s not difficult, just roll it to lock and then press a button on the bottom of the assy. At this point, you can rotate the key about 60* CCW and the whole lock assy comes right off. Some other writeups mention difficulty aligning this assy to reinstall it. I had no issues here, but I did have to reassemble it several times to unlock the forks again while I was working. This was not traumatic, but it was tedious.



Mr air cleaner has to come off too.



Here’s a general shot of the state of teardown you’ll be achieving—but wait, there’s more coming. Note my son’s latest POS in the background eating up garage space.



Here’s the pile of removed stuff.



This pic illustrates next to nothing except there’s still more stuff to remove—in this case the tank has to be raised to access the throttle/idle cable runs.



See what I mean about laying stuff on the fender?



Don’t forget this when raising the tank. It’s way easier to remove and install than a petcock fitting.



This pic is blurry, but illustrates one of the painful areas if you have manly hands. You have to force the fuel crossover under the coil towers. I suppose it ain’t all that difficult, but it felt weird contorting it like I had to in order to do this.



The FSM suggest using 1” X 2” blocks of wood to hold the tank up. I didn’t have the exact size, so I stopped everything I was doing, took a shower, got in the truck and drove to a lumber yard to purchase these tools. OK, so actually I broke a couple of pieces off some crate of crap my son has eating up garage space.




At this point, you’re pretty well clear to pull the throttle and idle cables off of the induction module—be sure to loosen the adjusters completely and remove the contact from the idle cable.



Removal of the throttle grip was in the pics that didn’t come out, but it ain’t rocket surgery. This pic is here merely to to pay homage to the fact that I had a hell of a time getting the idle cable out of the perch. I ended up using a spring pick to remove the snap ring from the inside—it would not just pull out.



One last thing to removing the bars; the riser clamp cap screws. The forward ones are easy, but the rears are directly under the lower lip of the inner fairing. I did not want to pull it too, so I improvised. It is semi-flexible, so I flexed it and stuffed a piece of slick cardboard between it and the allen wrench to keep from marring the fairing. This worked like a champ and probably save me about 3 days in unnecessary disassembly/reassembly. Note that the Air Temp gauge is, as usual, wrong.



If you elect to use the internal wiring option, you have to disassemble the connectors. It’s pretty simple and does not take any special tools, unlike aircraft connectors I am used to. Just be sure to make yourself a schematic to assist with reassembly. Alternatively, you could use a Factory Electrical manual if you’re brave enough to trust the wire codes are correct.



Here’s how I fished the wires. A piece of string tied to a piece of plastic bag and blown through the bar. I then taped the other end of the string to the harness and pulled it through gently. There was plenty of room in these bars, so I did not have to use any lube.



This shot shows how I taped the wires. In hindsight, I suppose I coulda’ taped all the way up to the cover tubing, but it worked well regardless.



Here are the bars on the bike, finally.



Lots of reassembly stuff happens here, more or less in the reverse order of disassembly.



Oh yeah, the clutch cable. I did not take any pics of this because it pi$$ed me off so bad I just plodded through it. You have to remove the exhaust to do this job on a bagger. Suffice to say, it’s tedious.

Hope this helps a little bit for the next guy who takes on this project.

[vafatboy]

Nice write up, tuff job....

I would offer this tip for pulling the wires. If you fold the wires back on the harness in a staged manner, the tip will be smaller than the aggregate and make them easier to pull.

Fold the first wire 2-inches, the next 3-inches and so on.

[TalonChief]

Originally Posted by vafatboy

Nice write up, tuff job....

I would offer this tip for pulling the wires. If you fold the wires back on the harness in a staged manner, the tip will be smaller than the aggregate and make them easier to pull.

Fold the first wire 2-inches, the next 3-inches and so on.

I did not really have to go that far in this case. The pins melded together in a fairly small bundle and slid through pretty easy. Like I said, there's lots of room inside the bars.