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replacing brake pads
Hey you all. I want to replace the front brake pads on me 07 softail standard.
socket sizes? proceedure.......then removal of pads from caliper. Any and all help appreciated. Oh, any type of pad better and why, or worth it.
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Doofbag Fer EverI smell Fish |
#2
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Here ya go..
http://www.lyndallracingbrakes.com/service_tech.htm Pay Close Attention To how The Pads Came Out, They Do Not Have The Same Orientation. |
#3
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Isabel http://www.TennesseeHolsterCompany.com http://www.captain-itch.com http://www.IsabelCohen.com On the Dragon in a tutu. |
#4
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Thank you Warren and Isabel. I'll be gathering the few missing items and git busy. Torque wrench... might tune it by ear.
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Doofbag Fer EverI smell Fish Last edited by knuckleheader-; 04-10-2010 at 08:18 PM. |
#5
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i can tell you that the bolts that hold the pads in place ARE NOT REVERSE TORX
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Josh..the Husband of Amy CAUTION! You have entered a Harley based forum. Apply a liberal amount of BS repellent to skin before reading anything by anybody. |
#6
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So,what does that mean? Do I need a special socket or tool?
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Doofbag Fer EverI smell Fish |
#7
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10mm 12-point I believe. You can theoretically change the pads without pulling the calipers, but you really should clean them the way that the Lyndall site suggests. Use Lyndall Z+ pads and you won't be sorry.
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You might be a king or a lowly street sweeper, but sooner or later you dance with the reaper. Make Doof Clenas Fun Again (MDCFA) |
#8
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Tools needed are in the link.
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#9
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Get 1/4 inch 12 pt socket for the bolts. Nothing else works, trust me.
If you don't have the little tool to push the piston back in you'll probably have to use a small prybar to get it to move in enough to get the caliper off and then back on again. |
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Quote:
Apache's comment(below) had my attention. That link you posted will be the one I'll use. Quote:
Quote:
I'll enjoy a sunny day fer this task....
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Doofbag Fer EverI smell Fish |
#11
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1/4" 12 point socket, Not an "E" socket, for the pad retaining pins, putty knife(s) to slip between the pad(s) and rotor to retract the pistons, remember to take out brake fluid in the master cylinder to allow the fluid at the pistons to have some place to go. PUT! THE TOP BACK ON!!! before pushing the pistons in. Or fluid will get on your paint, chrome and other stuff.
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Hi I'm Tom. Darned if I can remember anyone else's name. MDCGA The Road Goes On Forever... To Ride is Life... In search of the Doof 43. . . . ....... . . Colorado Motel Wreckers 2012 ... Midnight Riders of The Beartooth 2013... |
#12
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Chris RIP MONGOOSE 2002 RK Police 95 Big Bore Kit, Weisco Flat Top Pistons, 9.13:1 Engine built by Wilsons of E-town,KY Vance and Hines Ovals SE Air Cleaner, K&N Filter 2006 HD Stock Heads Andrews 26G Cams Dyno'd by ENGINES BY OTTO 851st ARMY SECURITY AGENCY - Europe - 74-77
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#13
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what everybody else said, 1/4 12pt socket, putty knife, brake cleaner.....call me if you have problems
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BAAAA BAAA BAAA "Blame Russ in 2012" "Can We Still Blame Russ in 2013" who's to blame in 2014? OH THIS IS SO NOODLES FAULT Chitty Chitty |
#14
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Quote:
Yes Sir. I'll be doing this probably next week.
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Doofbag Fer EverI smell Fish |
#15
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I would use the EBC HH sintered pads, they stop a hell of a lot better than the Lyndall kevlar. The kevlar fade under extreme use like mountains or heavy bikes and kind of suck in the rain. The EBC are awesome no matter what you throw at them, they stop my bagger on a dime, only issue is if you got fancy chrome rotors thay will make them un chrome, they are tough on rotors but who cares, both brakes and rotors are sacraficial and designed to stop you and not look good, so, if ya want to stop... EBC HH Sintered on front and rear. Your eyes will pop out the first time you nail them.
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