tankless water heater

[fxr4mikey]

YankeeBob;254375]

Why the check valve on the cold inlet?

the unit comes with that ...... my guess is that some places have code that calls for it. I don't know why ...... not like the water in the house is going to drain back into the water system

Why the gas cock above the tee? Kinda redundant, don'tcha' think?

code calls for the shut off to be within 'x' distance of the unit ..... i didn't go look up the code, so I just stuck one in there

Be sure to pipe that relief valve to within 12" of the floor. If that sucker were to blow whilst you were standing next to it, you wouldn't want it blowing at you!

Yes ..... strange thing about that
1) I have a pipe, not shown in the pic, that runs down and through the wall and outside. It will be piped to that with a union
2) since this is a 'tankless' system, the only time there is any pressure in the system is when the water is flowing. I don't see any need for a pressure relief valve, but the code calls for one, regardless of the type of water heater

Good investment. You should realize a savings in fuel consumption.

Thanks
I think it will pay for itself, in time
But more than that, I like the fact that I never run out of hot water!

I would worry about how many fixtures you can run at one time though.

If you do your homework, and I did mine, you get the size system that will support your whole house needs.




EDIT: updated with specs for the model that we have
our system supplies the following (and they make bigger ones too):

* 5.3 gpm at a 45°F temperature rise (up to 6.8 gpm at 35°F)
* Electronic ignition increases efficiency (no standing pilot light)
* Exclusive! Guardian SBT™ sensing burner technology & Guardian OFW™ overheat film wrap
* A remote control thermostat is included with all models with 100°F - 140°F setpoint range (factory set at 120°F)
* Digital display on thermostat shows temperature setting and maintenance/error codes
* Environmentally friendly Low NOx burner meets SCAQMD rule 1146 requirements
* Built-in electric blower to force exhaust gas to the outside
* Supplied w/ a 120 volt power cord
* Uses Category III stainless steel vents and vent horizontally or vertically
* EZ-Link™ cable connects two like units to operate as one, doubling capacity – now available for high demand applications (cable not included)
* Proper gas pressure must be ensured to supply tankless gas water heaters - up to 145,000 BTU
* High altitude chip is required for installation above 3,280 ft (chip not included w/ unit)

So I checked the local information to find out the yearly incoming water temp in our area, and have forgotten it now. But seem to recall that in the winter I was looking for about 60 degree rise in the winter.

The lower you set the water temp, the more that can be supplied (up to the max) for a given rise. We have ours set at 120 degrees.

We've had two showers running at the same time, the dishwasher, and kitchen sink ..... no problems with hot water at any the use points.

There are only two people living in the house ..... Jan and I.
In the last year we've had a LOT of company. One bud is building a house and moving down from NC .... he's been here a lot ........ (be glad when his house is done )

We've never had any issue with having enough hot water at any use point since we put this system in.

[Berserker]

Originally Posted by fxr4mikey

no need for a torch when fittings have threads .... makes it easier should you need to take it apart for repairs .....

just cause it's not sweat fitted, doesn't indicate that I don't know how to use a torch .... I prefer threaded fittings ... jus sayin'

Plastic water lines may be fine. My family are comtrctors, I did it fr 5 years. To me its hack. running plastic water lines. DWV ok. But does it really mater, probably not.

I just like running copper. I guess, its my feel good. I will say fittings are getting expensive.


Home owners run plastic. Never rust and will probably last forever. Some people claim they can tell difference in taste. I doubt I could.

[fxr4mikey]

Originally Posted by Berserker

Plastic water lines may be fine. My family are comtrctors, I did it fr 5 years. To me its hack. running plastic water lines. DWV ok. But does it really mater, probably not.

I just like running copper. I guess, its my feel good. I will say fittings are getting expensive.


Home owners run plastic. Never rust and will probably last forever. Some people claim they can tell difference in taste. I doubt I could.

I don't know the numbers, but my guess is that over 90% of newer homes in the south all have plastic water piping.

My bud is just finishing his new home ..... in his place they used plastic TUBING, not pipe, TUBING ..... cheaper, easier, faster .... Time is money


I can not tell the diff in taste of water from plastic or copper


copper is more expensive, more labor intense, longer to install, not flexible, overall cost is higher ............

When I live in MI. I saw VERY FEW homes with plastic .....

but I don't live there now

My sisters house was done in plastic, her water in AZ killed it, now its done in copper.

[YankeeBob]

You DID pull a permit and get it inspected, right?

[thedog]

Originally Posted by fxr4mikey

YankeeBob;254375]
2) since this is a 'tankless' system, the only time there is any pressure in the system is when the water is flowing. I don't see any need for a pressure relief valve, but the code calls for one, regardless of the type of water heater

Good choice, btw.

The reason for the PSV - you won't break something if the burner doesn't shut off immediately when the water flow stops, or if there's no air in the system and any heat source causes the water to expand ... remember you have a check valve at the water inlet.

[fxr4mikey]

Originally Posted by YankeeBob

You DID pull a permit and get it inspected, right?

Funny you should ask that ......


In our county, I called em, no inspection required

SC is a strange place, sometime

[fxr4mikey]

Originally Posted by thedog

Good choice, btw.

The reason for the PSV - you won't break something if the burner doesn't shut off immediately when the water flow stops, or if there's no air in the system and any heat source causes the water to expand ... remember you have a check valve at the water inlet.

AHHHH, Thanks for giving me the insight !!