Somehow I f$&% up my clutch

[Infidel!]

About a year ago I replaced the stock clutch plates with a Barnett extra plate kit and HD spring due ti slippage. All I did was replace the plates, but since then it's been kind of tricky when making adjustments. I used to go out 3/4 of a turn with the original clutch, but after the swap, I could never go out more than 1/2 turn.

So now I replace my handlebars, and need a longer clutch cable. I bought one from Magnum Shielding at 4" over. Cable replacement is straightforward enough - pull the tranny side cover, pull the inner ramp, attach the cable, etc. It's not exactly rocket science. Since then I have had constant drag, which I've been unable to adjust out. It was annoying me, and I attributed it to the Barnett kit so I replaced the plates again with stock HD plates, and an easier to pull SE spring.

Now it's completely hosed - as in after it warms up I have no clutch. I've adjusted it down to 1/4 turn out now. Anything less and it doesn't disengage at all. It seems OK for a few minutes after starting, but if I sit in gear with the clutch disengaged and my foot on the brake (to keep from running into the house) the drag will steadily increase to the point that the engine stalls. I have taken everything apart and put it back together again. The ramps and balls seem OK, which I initially thought to be the problem. I'm frustrated and depressed. I have no idea what I could have done wrong. Obviously the bike isn't rideable in this condition.

So, any ideas? Could it be the cable itself?

It's really going to piss me off if I have to trailer it to a shop

[MrSurly]

Originally Posted by txhawg

Now it's completely hosed - as in after it warms up I have no clutch. I've adjusted it down to 1/4 turn out now. Anything less and it doesn't disengage at all. It seems OK for a few minutes after starting, but if I sit in gear with the clutch disengaged and my foot on the brake (to keep from running into the house) the drag will steadily increase to the point that the engine stalls.

You've got me scratching my head on this one. Assuming your primary oil is good(?)

I can't prove it by experience, but I've read somewhere that the primary chain adjustment can cause this; I would guess by the chain being too tight.

God luck with it.

[Dinero]

Call Little Bear.

[BigTOE]

Is it possible that you got a bad cable...if the problem started when you installed it, then I would suspect it to center around the cable or cable installation.

[Infidel!]

I'm thinking that, but it looks good. I can see the pressure plate move out when I squeeze the lever.

Maybe the installer?

I'm guessing I don't get enough separation between the plates, then when it heats up and expands it all binds up.

[jasilva]

Did you by chance not get the little balls back in the ramps when you took the ramp out? If one fell down out of place or fell out completely you could have the inner ramp out too far to adjust the clutch or binding up. Also while you have the cover off again check the feel of the cable itself. You should be able to pull the cable with little to no effort. Also, not likely but possible that the clutch pushrod is not set down into the ramp pocket and your starting with the rod out to far. One last possibility, when you went back to the stock clutch did you get the friction plate/steel plate count correct and did you get the smaller inner plate/steel and spring washer in and in the correct order. I'd check all this before taking it to a shop.

[Uesque]

Originally Posted by txhawg

I'm thinking that, but it looks good. I can see the pressure plate move out when I squeeze the lever.

Maybe the installer?

I'm guessing I don't get enough separation between the plates, then when it heats up and expands it all binds up.

I would think that if you're using a multi-viscosity oil it would exacerbate this condition even more as the temps and viscosity increase.

[MrSurly]

Originally Posted by txhawg

About a year ago I replaced the stock clutch plates with a Barnett extra plate kit and HD spring due ti slippage. All I did was replace the plates, but since then it's been kind of tricky when making adjustments.

From Dan's post it sounds like the problem may have started long before the new cable. It might even be related to the original slippage problem.

[MrSurly]

Originally Posted by txhawg

About a year ago I replaced the stock clutch plates with a Barnett extra plate kit and HD spring due ti slippage. All I did was replace the plates, but since then it's been kind of tricky when making adjustments.

From Dan's post it sounds like the problem may have started long before the new cable. It might even be related to the original slippage problem.


I dunno how many miles are on this bike, but could it be that the inner hub or the basket are worn significantly where the plates ride? Grabbing at straws...

[Infidel!]

Originally Posted by jasilva

Did you by chance not get the little balls back in the ramps when you took the ramp out? If one fell down out of place or fell out completely you could have the inner ramp out too far to adjust the clutch or binding up..

Dunno. I'm pretty sure they're right, It's a major PIA removing the exhaust to check again, but I guess I'll have to look. The manual said to orient the circlip so that the opening is centered over the gap in the cover. I wonder if it moved somehow. I have tomorrow off, so I'll take it down again and have a look.

Originally Posted by jasilva

Also while you have the cover off again check the feel of the cable itself. You should be able to pull the cable with little to no effort. .

I did check the last time I had it off. After I assembled the ramps I could easily rotate the inner ramp with the cable attached. Maybe doing that dislodged a ball. I'll have to look at that too.

Originally Posted by jasilva

Also, not likely but possible that the clutch pushrod is not set down into the ramp pocket and your starting with the rod out to far. .

If I remember correctly, this isn't keyed is it? I thout it looked like it just sat in the pocket.

All very good pointers. Thanks, I'll let you know how it goes.

Originally Posted by jasilva

One last possibility, when you went back to the stock clutch did you get the friction plate/steel plate count correct and did you get the smaller inner plate/steel and spring washer in and in the correct order. I'd check all this before taking it to a shop.

I've got 49K on it. The inner bearing race walked inward and tore up the bearing about 10K miles ago. I'm wondering if something like this happened again. My tranny fluid kind of looked like the spakly paint on my bike when I shined a flashlight in it. Don't know if the two coud be related.

Originally Posted by masstch

From Dan's post it sounds like the problem may have started long before the new cable. It might even be related to the original slippage problem.


I dunno how many miles are on this bike, but could it be that the inner hub or the basket are worn significantly where the plates ride? Grabbing at straws...

[jasilva]

Originally Posted by masstch

From Dan's post it sounds like the problem may have started long before the new cable. It might even be related to the original slippage problem.


I dunno how many miles are on this bike, but could it be that the inner hub or the basket are worn significantly where the plates ride? Grabbing at straws...

You may be right, Dan did you remove a smaller size friction plate and steel when you changed clutches last year. The friction disk doesn't have the outside splines like the rest of the clutch pack you have to pick it out with a dental pick usually. If you left those friction/steel disks in it would explain why your adjustment is so touchy. That smaller pair has a wavy spring behind them which is part of what gives Harley clutches that nice long friction zone. Left in it would make your clutch pack stack height to high.

[Infidel!]

Hmmmmm. They must have changed things. The innermost narrower friction disc did have outside splines on it and the damper spring is concave not wavy. I'll take it apart again tomorrow. I had 9 friction discs and 8 steels. First and last in were friction.

[jasilva]

Originally Posted by txhawg

Hmmmmm. They must have changed things. The innermost narrower friction disc did have outside splines on it and the damper spring is concave not wavy. I'll take it apart again tomorrow. I had 9 friction discs and 8 steels. First and last in were friction.

Your right, it's actually concave not wavy. Sounds like you replaced the right number. Unless you accidentally got an extra plate in there it would have to be on the right side.

[ms_tapestry]

So is it fixed yet?

[Infidel!]

no

I checked and double checked everything.

My tranny fluid is really sparkly, If that didn't worry me so, I would think it's pretty. Looks like I'm pulling the transmission. Let's see how bad I can screw that up.