Belt deflection

[Geezer-Glide]

Originally Posted by MegaGlide

Anodizing is for aluminum, and eats steel for breakfast. If you have an aluminum axle, you have real problems.
Get the cam up against the stops with the axle loose, then tighten to 30 ft/lb (IIRC, YOU should have the manual there when you're doing it) and adjust. HOLD the weldnut to make sure it doesn't turn while you are torquing the axle nut. If it turns, the cams come away from the stops.

You smart.
You not dumb like they say!

[Berserker]

Does the cam have to stay in contact with weld nub? Depending on which way you turn it may not? Do you then push forward?

Got gauge. Is to wide to fit inside belt guard. So I put it in front of guard. Seems kind far forward. But thats what the gauge directions say to do. Not sure if they have been updated for narrower belts.

[Berserker]

Got it. Glad I bought the gauge. I cut one side off to fit inside the guard. Did it infront of the spot with the marks. Did read if it doesn't cotnact weld nub push forward.

Not much holding this in place.

Will check the FLHR, with the gauge when I get home.

Fatcat is nice comes off easy. Its to tight to get the pit posse wrench very easily, with the pipe on.

Besides the way that damn pipe comes off, good to redo it every couple weeks. Ha

[Fe Butte]

I use my church key to check it...

[Berserker]

I have a opener on my bother bike, but as 8 says not my problem.

[Crabby Appleton]

your kiddin us with this belt stuff, RIGHT


you aint makin enuff horsepower to hurt anything anyway


Good to see your in the right forum....practice what ya preach

[Berserker]

How many miles you got on your belt?

[Crabby Appleton]

Originally Posted by Berserker

How many miles you got on your belt?

Almost 10,000

[Type O]

my 92 ultra has belt Gage belt on to the Gard so i don't need a spacial tool .old school alot to be said for it

[route66paul]

Get something that weighs 10lbs. take it out here with you and set it next the the belt. Lift it up and using your brain and muscle memory, use the same pressure on the belt. It is easy enough. The belt gets looser with wear, and heat changes the parameters somewhat. This is not near as critical as a valve adjustment. It is not rocket science.

The same can be said for many of the bolts and spoke tightening. Pros use their experiance, they only use torque wrenches when it really matters. Anyone who has messed with motorcycles most of thier life has a pretty good idea how to tighten bolts, how to check blind holes for water or oil and how to clean threads on bolts. When we had our desert bikes out on the weekend, we would even put heads on without a torque wrench, they always worked. You have to get them down evenly with a light tightness, go over it again a little tighter, and again as tight as you think that the fasteners should be. 5-10 difference in many cases is not going to do damage, as long as the bolts have en even pull on them and you are not King Kong with them.

Originally Posted by route66paul

Get something that weighs 10lbs. take it out here with you and set it next the the belt. Lift it up and using your brain and muscle memory, use the same pressure on the belt. It is easy enough. The belt gets looser with wear, and heat changes the parameters somewhat. This is not near as critical as a valve adjustment. It is not rocket science.

The same can be said for many of the bolts and spoke tightening. Pros use their experiance, they only use torque wrenches when it really matters. Anyone who has messed with motorcycles most of thier life has a pretty good idea how to tighten bolts, how to check blind holes for water or oil and how to clean threads on bolts. When we had our desert bikes out on the weekend, we would even put heads on without a torque wrench, they always worked. You have to get them down evenly with a light tightness, go over it again a little tighter, and again as tight as you think that the fasteners should be. 5-10 difference in many cases is not going to do damage, as long as the bolts have en even pull on them and you are not King Kong with them.

Paul:

I still put my faith in "Mr Snap-On" and/or "Mr Mac">

It just doesn't take any longer to get the torque wrench out of the tool box than it does to get the ratchet out>

On the road I do what I have to do to get home>

[Crabby Appleton]

Originally Posted by HARLET

my 92 ultra has belt Gage belt on to the Gard so i don't need a spacial tool .old school alot to be said for it

the gauge on the guard is to measure deflection....how are ya measuring the FORCE that ya deflect the belt with??? Thats what the tool is for

[LittleBear]

Never used the belt tool, maybe I should buy one and give it a try. I tend to get my a little loose. After they stretch a little, they squeak during deceleration when cold but it stops when they get hot. Tighten it up just a touch and the squeak goes away when cold. Old thick wide bets, I use the twist method. Not for everyone, I recommend the tool to do it right.

[Crabby Appleton]

I use the good enuff method.......when I think its right its "GOOD ENUFF"

[Berserker]

Originally Posted by cwilks

I use the good enuff method.......when I think its right its "GOOD ENUFF"

Yes and you got 10k on yours

I got 55k and haven't touched it after the initial stretch. I agree I don't think its that critical. With the old style axle, it didn't change when taking the rear tire off. With the communinst axle it has to be redone each time.

I don't think you need the tool, but I bought. I think you would be surprised.